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about to pull my hair out this truck is kicking my a**


joshua1978

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
47
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
ok still having backfiring proplems but this is what the thingdone to me this morning ony way to work ... I went to start it done just fine took of headed to work got on the highway went to pick up speed was in 3rd gear about 2500 to 3000 rpms and it pops then stalls until i back off any time i try to give it gas it stalls and trys to die . i made it to work barly when this happen before the vam poped of the turbo but not this time so i dont have a clue i am thinking the tps but i checked it like a day or two ago could it go bad in that time
:icon_confused::annoyed:
 
just hooked up the egr no bov & check ,checked and rechecked the timing and no vacum leaks i think i fix the proplem vam was messed up re adjusted took for a drive and bad detnation i think i stuck a vavle what r the odds of a bent vavle or somthing else wrong with the vavle train now i have a free cylinder so what else could it be
 
could be the EGR stuck also. mine was bent when i first got my truck and it backfired something horrible, had no power and sucked up fuel quicker than i could fill it.
 
hmmmmm went to check to find out what happen last night had no compresion on 3 and 4 put a scope to see if there was a hole in a piston no thank goodness pulled vavle cover all vavles working right pulled head it was blown out in between 3 &4 so now getting new head set
 
hey need to ask another question are the head bolts stretch to yeild bolts or not if i need to replace them or not
 
You need to replace them. Espically with the turbo. Cheap insurance for not having to do headgaskets over and over again too.
 
make sure you get the good felpro headgasket. i think it is number 1035 if memory serves.
 
If they are the stock ford head bolts (12 pt.) no you don't actually have to replace them.

I would recommend against the 1035. Yes it is a better gasket, but it requires very flat deck and head surfaces. The regular old 8993 is more forgiving that way, and is in no way a bad gasket. Also, its less than 1/4 the price of the 1035.

Unless this is a very high performance build (over 350 RWHP) don't bother with the 1035. I ran the 8993 with 28-29 psi and it never blew. The cylinder wall, however did blow.

S5000732.JPG
 
Yeah x2, i would say unless your going over 300+hp the regular hg will work.

And I had a problem with back firing, but it was just in my tune. Simple fix.
 
you could use the extra bones to pick up some ARP studs
 
you could use the extra bones to pick up some ARP studs

That's definitely the right way to do it. Studs are completely reusable, and clamp better. It's also a good idea to re-torque head studs after the engine has been heat cycled. It's necessary if you run the 1035.
 
got it running still stumbls not as bad i have taken the vam apart and can mess with it and makeit idle smooth is there a way to test it .... i took it out the contacts on the arm are not touching all the way
 

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