A/C clutch not coming on

[kimcrwbr1]

All I am saying is you should not operate the system without the safety device in place how does that make me a hack. Too high of pressure can destroy the compressor then you will be doing it all again. Check the pressure at 3000 rpm and you will see what I am talking about. If you dont know how much refrigerant is in the system by weight get he low pressure switch working correct so when you unplug it the clutch dont cycle the compressor. then pull some of the refrigerant out into a empty container while the engine is running and the a/c is on add juice to it until the compressor cycles. It takes a few minutes for the system to stabilize then add juice slowly a little at a time then let it blend until you get what the sticker under the hood specifies. If you have a good thermometer check the delta-T that is the difference between the air going into the blower and the air coming out of the vents. what happes with too much refrigerant is the liquid stacks up in the condenser in front of the radiator and reduces it`s ability to transfer the heat out of the refrigerant. Heat transfer is done in a vapor state and as the heat is pulled out of the refrigerant it turns into a high pressure liquid. That goes through the expansion device (piston or expansion valve) and flashes from a liquid to a low pressure vapor and absorbs the heat from the cab in the evaporator and takes it out to the compressor and turns it into a high pressure vapor that goes into the condenser in front of the radiator where the heat is pulled into the atmosphere and condenses the vapor into a liquid that is stored in the receiver. Heat always transfers from hot to cold. You are not adding cool you are removing the heat through the refrigerant. When you put a beer in the refrigerator you are not adding cool your pulling the heat out of it.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

i know exactly how the system works. i never said you were a hack. and i fully agree it should not be rigged up.

im just saying the information is not correct.

 

[Nhaz]

In any case guys. The system has functioned so far perfectly all week. As far as I can tell the Only thing I have done is bypassed the WOT relay which doesn't seem to exist Or I simply cannot recognize it.

Its not on the fender, there are only 2 relays there. I have seriously quintuple checked this. both I have tested to be the ecc relay and the fuel pump. there is also a diode there which I also tested.

Everything under the dash has 6 or more wires. The WOT relays I have looked at online dont look like them at all and the most wires are 5.

And knowing something of how electricity works. In the event of the WOT relay ever started working again all it does it create a parallel circuit with equal voltage across both and slightly more amps on one of them, which both legs can handle full amps from the clutch with the simple logic that its already doing so.

And since I put the beginning of the leg After the cycling pressure switch. it still can cut the circuit.

I looked for a high pressure switch. there's nothing between the pump and the front rad other then the pressure line.

If it never works again all it did was turn off the pump on Wide open throttle. and if what I read is correct only for about 8 seconds.

I Do like to do things right. but I also get fed up and don't waste too much time getting things to work.

I also checked with a local A/C guy he does home a/c but he says if that pipe after the low pressure switch isnt frosting up then its fine. and its not.

oh and I admit in a heartbeat to being a hack if it gets the job done!

 

[Nhaz]

Just thought I would post a update to the minor mystery.

Today while in a junkyard I found a identical truck to mine. I Quickly located its WOT relay and sextuple checked its location against where mine is supposed to be.

and its still not there lol!

Oh and I took the relay with me. and just compared it online to others sold. and its the same as the ones sold online.