'99 Stepside Frame Swap

[theBlake]

Well, went for a test drive. Everything's fine, still no codes, everything passes the readiness test.
But my gauge cluster lights are out and my tail lights don't work with the headlights on, they do work when hitting the brake pedal though.
I've got some investigating to do. Gonna check the connections tomorrow and to some TLC on a couple ground locations. Wish I could find my multimeter so I could test things further. For now I'll start with the basics, backtrack and make sure I haven't done something wrong or failed to do something period.

Either way, I'm not extremely concerned since my drive to and from Nashville will be during the day... but I still wanna fix it asap. So, time to put my thinking cap on.

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[Mark_88]

Gauge cluster was on a slider dimmer on the 96...maybe it's just turned off...

Did you check fuses or do tails work with heads turned off? That might be a wonky ground connection.

There are fuse panel and power distribution schematics online if you need them...I had them on my phone for those roadside repair emergencies...

 

[theBlake]

Gauge cluster was on a slider dimmer on the 96...maybe it's just turned off...

Did you check fuses or do tails work with heads turned off? That might be a wonky ground connection.

There are fuse panel and power distribution schematics online if you need them...I had them on my phone for those roadside repair emergencies...

Yea, checked the slider and tested the taillights with the headlights off/vice versa. I can't confirm whether or not they were working after the rebuild considering I first drove it/cranked it at night these past couple nights or so. I checked the fuses, all good. I have a box of 2.5-30amp fuses so I'll clean the fuse box out and throw some fresh ones in there just for sh*ts and giggles.

Other options are the obvious ones... check to make sure I plugged everything in, check/service all of my grounds (which I don't think is the issue, all things considered... but I'm wrong about something every day so yea). I busted/cracked one if my plate light plugs while backing out of a steep driveway (bumpers not mounted yet), I wonder if that could be causing it???

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[alwaysFlOoReD]

grey plug = capacitor

 

[theBlake]

grey plug = capacitor

Hmm... I looked and looked for a place to plug that into but couldn't find one. Where is it?

I'm gonna laugh if that little plug is the reason for my recent issues. Just checked all of the fuses having to do with cluster lights, running lights, etc. All is fine. Was gonna check again in the morning when I have better light to work with.

Is this the ignition capacitor? First I've heard of this.

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[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, ignition capacitor. In the following link the OP is holding a capacitor. His index finger is on the end that would be under the nut [or bolt in your pic] that holds the coil or coil pack. The wire would have an end to fit the end in your pic.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158040

 

[theBlake]

Yes, ignition capacitor. In the following link the OP is holding a capacitor. His index finger is on the end that would be under the nut [or bolt in your pic] that holds the coil or coil pack. The wire would have an end to fit the end in your pic.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158040

Interesting. So I guess I just unbolt the coil pack and plug that in somewhere? I'll see.

In other news, checked all my fuses again. Turns out #11 in my power distribution fuse box (15amp, Parklamps Relay and Main Light Switch) was blown. Put a new one in there, taillights worked, drove home, fuse blown again.

So... now what? Haha
I'll look over the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual and see if that bears fruit, but I'm not wiring-inclined so any tips are much appreciated.

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[Mark_88]

Blowing fuses so something is adding a stress to the circuit...probably a loose or damaged wire somewhere...

I'd be looking for patches or add-ons...things like bad wire splices or upgrades to radios or extra driving lights...

I could go back and read through everything to see what you did with the frame swap but there may be more missing than showing...when I did my last frame off/swap it was very involved and when I went to document it I realized there were things done that I didn't even get good pictures to show the changes.

Very easy to do something and not realize it was crucial or could lead to problems later...so always good to test it ASAP before moving on to something different...but on a major project that is not always easy or even possible.

 

[theBlake]

Blowing fuses so something is adding a stress to the circuit...probably a loose or damaged wire somewhere...

I'd be looking for patches or add-ons...things like bad wire splices or upgrades to radios or extra driving lights...

I could go back and read through everything to see what you did with the frame swap but there may be more missing than showing...when I did my last frame off/swap it was very involved and when I went to document it I realized there were things done that I didn't even get good pictures to show the changes.

Very easy to do something and not realize it was crucial or could lead to problems later...so always good to test it ASAP before moving on to something different...but on a major project that is not always easy or even possible.

I'll look for any loose connections. The donor frame came with the rear harness intact, and in good shape too (much better than mine). All I did with that was snake it out of the frame before I de-rusted/coated it and snaked it back in place. My gut is telling me to check my taillight plugs, but with the brake lights still working it seems like a long shot, although it's still worth checking just in case. Only thing that's not original to the rear harness is my trailer plug... mayyybe I might have plugged it up wrong. I dunno. There are 3 plugs it could've gone in to... First pic is how it's plugged up currently, second is with it disconnected to show the plugs, etc.

Maybe this is my issue... maybe I zigged when I should have zagged... never hooked up a trailer circuit, much less seen one with 2 plugs on it (Hoppy brand "Electronic Taillight Converter")

I'll unplug it and see what happens next [emoji848]

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[theBlake]

I'll look for any loose connections. The donor frame came with the rear harness intact, and in good shape too (much better than mine). All I did with that was snake it out of the frame before I de-rusted/coated it and snaked it back in place. My gut is telling me to check my taillight plugs, but with the brake lights still working it seems like a long shot, although it's still worth checking just in case. Only thing that's not original to the rear harness is my trailer plug... mayyybe I might have plugged it up wrong. I dunno. There are 3 plugs it could've gone in to... First pic is how it's plugged up currently, second is with it disconnected to show the plugs, etc.

Maybe this is my issue... maybe I zigged when I should have zagged... never hooked up a trailer circuit, much less seen one with 2 plugs on it (Hoppy brand "Electronic Taillight Converter")

I'll unplug it and see what happens next [emoji848]

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Well, unplugged it. Fuse blew. Not that. Haha

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[theBlake]

So, I finally found my multimeter. Can someone walk me through how to properly test the taillights/gauge cluster?

Got under the truck with a flashlight. Followed the harness all the way. No loose wires. No shorts or worn spots that I see/feel anywhere. Coincidentally, the power and ground terminals in my busted license plate light plug had been crunched together. In keeping with my tradition of fixing it when I find it, and my other tradition of not knowing what the hell I'm doing with automotive wiring, I pulled back the broken plug to reveal the terminals, and wrapped them thoroughly (separately).

I'm weary of trying a new fuse just yet before I've been able to properly test the circuit(s). So... any takers? [emoji3]

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[Mark_88]

I found a video on testing for shorts using a light probe. It was on an older Ranger with the 2.8 but the idea is the same...if you have a test light probe it's easy...if you don't have one they are really inexpensive...but it's one tool that I rarely had to use myself because I almost always found the problem by inspecting everything...

But if you want to try...short video...don't give up on this one...almost there...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wLrTjeb9TY

Just in case the above doesn't work...

 

[theBlake]

I found a video on testing for shorts using a light probe. It was on an older Ranger with the 2.8 but the idea is the same...if you have a test light probe it's easy...if you don't have one they are really inexpensive...but it's one tool that I rarely had to use myself because I almost always found the problem by inspecting everything...

But if you want to try...short video...don't give up on this one...almost there...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wLrTjeb9TY

Just in case the above doesn't work...

Lovin it. I've got a test light nearby I can use, I'll try that.
Finished flushing the radiator tonight. Also painted the new rear bumper and hit the shallow pockets of my truck box with Flex Seal... didn't have a boat with a screen door-bottom, so the box will have to do.

I did notice while pushing the truck out of the garage that my brake lights didn't work. So I'm starting to think the issue might be with the 3 plugs at the rear... unless this "short" is trying to domino it's way around the truck.

Back at it in the morning. Thanks for the encouragement.

*Also, it's been brought to my attention that my pics are kinda big. I'll edit when I get a chance and see about shrinking them some.

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[tomw]

If the license plate light power and ground wires were intertwined, that would create a dead short, which would blow the fuse immediately.
I have had bulbs which had the glass separate from the metal base, allowing the leads to twist around, make contact, and blow the fuse. New bulb, and all was well.
I did not look at the youtube videos, but know you can use a test light in place of a fuse. Poke one lead of the light to one fuse connection, the other lead to the other side of the fuse connector. The bulb will act as a limited fuse, and will glow when there is current flowing. It will/should not blow the bulb if you stay within reason on the load applied, and will glow brightly, at its normal brightness, if there is a short.

tom

 

[theBlake]

If the license plate light power and ground wires were intertwined, that would create a dead short, which would blow the fuse immediately.
I have had bulbs which had the glass separate from the metal base, allowing the leads to twist around, make contact, and blow the fuse. New bulb, and all was well.
I did not look at the youtube videos, but know you can use a test light in place of a fuse. Poke one lead of the light to one fuse connection, the other lead to the other side of the fuse connector. The bulb will act as a limited fuse, and will glow when there is current flowing. It will/should not blow the bulb if you stay within reason on the load applied, and will glow brightly, at its normal brightness, if there is a short.

tom

Thanks for the info... I'll be cranking it up in a bit to see if my electrical tape did the trick... crossing my fingers

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