99 Ranger Squeak in Engine Bay

[fanugi]

This is a 6CYL 3L.

Just started noticing a squeak coming from the engine bay. Have been using Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant with every fill-up as of the last 6 months and the serpentine belt was replaced 5K miles ago.

Not sure if those two factors are related or not.

Could it be the camshaft synchronizer if it's not a belt? My biggest fear is that it's the chirp I've read about it just before the engine blows when it's not lubricated well enough. I'm not exactly sure what engines are susceptible to that as I've read conflicting information.

In any case, a link to the video is at:

ENGINE BAY SQUEAK

Watch "ENGINE BAY SQUEAK" on Streamable.

streamable.com

I couldn't attach it for whatever reason.

Any insight is appreciated as money is tight right now but I don't want to damage the truck by driving it like this if it's something critical. I'm always learning and maybe someone will know right away what it most likely is when they hear it.

 

[Curious Hound]

Camshaft synchronizer would be near the rear of the engine. I would shut the engine off, remove the belt and check tensioner pulley, idler pulley, alternator and A/C compressor pulley. Feel for play and rotate by hand, feeling for roughness and looseness. Idler pulley and tensioner pulley are frequent offenders.

 

[fanugi]

Camshaft synchronizer would be near the rear of the engine. I would shut the engine off, remove the belt and check tensioner pulley, idler pulley, alternator and A/C compressor pulley. Feel for play and rotate by hand, feeling for roughness and looseness. Idler pulley and tensioner pulley are frequent offenders.

Thanks for the helpful reply!

 

[pjtoledo]

with my 2000 the belt squeaks whenever it wants to, usually worse if its humid.
I have found it's always the back side of the belt making the noise, so it's basically harmless.
very easy to test for this, while idling squirt some water on the belt at the alternator.
if it's the belt the noise will subside for a few seconds.

belt squeaks are almost 100% rhythmic at idle, if you closely watch the back of the belt you can usually see some sort of mark
at the same spot when the noise peaks.

I have found the info printed on the back has a different texture that the rest of the belt.
when that patch goes over the smooth idler or water pump pulley it squeaks.

if the noise is the cam sync unit, replace it immediately, that drives the oil pump!!!

 

[James Morse]

Good advice, just to add, that I was getting some squeak esp. on startup and tensioner was bent at an angle (ready to come apart) and when I replaced it squeak went away, so as advised check that, maybe you will be lucky if it's only that.

 

[fanugi]

Camshaft synchronizer would be near the rear of the engine. I would shut the engine off, remove the belt and check tensioner pulley, idler pulley, alternator and A/C compressor pulley. Feel for play and rotate by hand, feeling for roughness and looseness. Idler pulley and tensioner pulley are frequent offenders.

Is there anything else I could try to isolate the problem without removing the belt? I'm not very mechanical but would like to do what I can. Thanks again!

 

[fanugi]

with my 2000 the belt squeaks whenever it wants to, usually worse if its humid.
I have found it's always the back side of the belt making the noise, so it's basically harmless.
very easy to test for this, while idling squirt some water on the belt at the alternator.
if it's the belt the noise will subside for a few seconds.

belt squeaks are almost 100% rhythmic at idle, if you closely watch the back of the belt you can usually see some sort of mark
at the same spot when the noise peaks.

I have found the info printed on the back has a different texture that the rest of the belt.
when that patch goes over the smooth idler or water pump pulley it squeaks.

if the noise is the cam sync unit, replace it immediately, that drives the oil pump!!!

with my 2000 the belt squeaks whenever it wants to, usually worse if its humid.
I have found it's always the back side of the belt making the noise, so it's basically harmless.
very easy to test for this, while idling squirt some water on the belt at the alternator.
if it's the belt the noise will subside for a few seconds.

belt squeaks are almost 100% rhythmic at idle, if you closely watch the back of the belt you can usually see some sort of mark
at the same spot when the noise peaks.

I have found the info printed on the back has a different texture that the rest of the belt.
when that patch goes over the smooth idler or water pump pulley it squeaks.

if the noise is the cam sync unit, replace it immediately, that drives the oil pump!!!

Thanks for the reply.

I sprayed the belt at the alternator and, if anything, it got louder and more consistent. Is there any other way to further narrow it down? It's hard to tell exactly where the sound is coming from.

 

[Curious Hound]

Is there anything else I could try to isolate the problem without removing the belt? I'm not very mechanical but would like to do what I can. Thanks again!

The belt is not difficult to remove. Put a wrench on the tensioner and pull it away from the belt. With you other hand, lift the belt off a couple pulleys. Then slowly release the tensioner.

 

[RobbieD]

^^^ Exactly that. It's not too difficult.

The only thing beyond that, if you remove or partially remove the belt to run the engine, is to check the sticker on the radiator support showing the belt routing. The sticker is a big help when you go to reinstall the belt, especially on a serpentine belt.

 

[fanugi]

^^^ Exactly that. It's not too difficult.

The only thing beyond that, if you remove or partially remove the belt to run the engine, is to check the sticker on the radiator support showing the belt routing. The sticker is a big help when you go to reinstall the belt, especially on a serpentine belt.

Thanks!

 

[pjtoledo]

Thanks for the reply.

I sprayed the belt at the alternator and, if anything, it got louder and more consistent. Is there any other way to further narrow it down? It's hard to tell exactly where the sound is coming from.

at least it was cheap and quick.
when removing the belt you only have to take it off the big drive pulley, getting it off the tensioner will allow that. leave most of it in place but get it away from the drive pulley. nothing else will move/rotate.

you can use some hose as a substitute for a stethoscope. 'bout 3/8 inside. check for bugs 'n spiders before you stick near your ear.
the cam sync is behind & lower than the coil. if that is noisy you should be able to pick it up.

 

[fanugi]

at least it was cheap and quick.
when removing the belt you only have to take it off the big drive pulley, getting it off the tensioner will allow that. leave most of it in place but get it away from the drive pulley. nothing else will move/rotate.

you can use some hose as a substitute for a stethoscope. 'bout 3/8 inside. check for bugs 'n spiders before you stick near your ear.
the cam sync is behind & lower than the coil. if that is noisy you should be able to pick it up.

Okay, so I listened more closely and the chirp was coming from the camshaft synchronizer. Some small squirts of 5W30 were put around the perimeter of the top. After a few minutes of driving, the chirp went away and has not returned!

So, now I'm wondering if I might have done some damage driving it like that. I think it was every Saturday for about a month as it got progressively louder. I thought it was a belt issue or I wouldn't have kept driving. What worries me is that I've read that others had the engine seize soon after the chirp started...

Do you think I did do some damage or is it impossible to know? As long as it's not chirping, is the risk of the engine seizing no longer an immediate threat?

Also, I know there may not be a definitive answer, but is it best to replace the cam synchro or does oiling it usually address the issue? I'm glad the chirp is gone but may consider replacing it at some point down the road (hopefully not too soon). I read that some shops will only replace it and won't even oil it.

Any further thoughts are appreciated and thanks again for your insights!

 

[fanugi]

^^^ Exactly that. It's not too difficult.

The only thing beyond that, if you remove or partially remove the belt to run the engine, is to check the sticker on the radiator support showing the belt routing. The sticker is a big help when you go to reinstall the belt, especially on a serpentine belt.

Can you kindly reply to my most recent post? It was the cam synchro and hoping for additional insight.

 

[fanugi]

Good advice, just to add, that I was getting some squeak esp. on startup and tensioner was bent at an angle (ready to come apart) and when I replaced it squeak went away, so as advised check that, maybe you will be lucky if it's only that.

Have you ever had to replace or oil the cam synchro? That was the issue.

 

[fanugi]

The belt is not difficult to remove. Put a wrench on the tensioner and pull it away from the belt. With you other hand, lift the belt off a couple pulleys. Then slowly release the tensioner.

Thanks again but I wound up not having to remove the belt as it was the cam synchro.