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99 ranger hard to shift speedo went out


iroc254u

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2009
Messages
13
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
I just installed a new bearing hub assemble and a front left cv shaft. Every thing was well when i pulled it in the garage. So i put it all in took it outfor a ride and you have to hold it down and tack it to shift but once it does it shifts fine even after a stop. It only happens when i shut the truck off and start it and go it will shift hard in to second then shift fine untill i shut truck off. Also my speedo quit working and my o/d light blinks. Alll was well when i pulled it in garage. Any ideas?
 
One more thing i forgot to mention. I got thehub assembly from a junk yard and it did not have the abs plug in on it so i just left it unpluged thinking it would be ok. Would this have anything to do with the speedo not working and shifting prob
 
Your symptoms point to a rear axle VSS signal problem, but you didn't touch that.

The 4wABS module uses all 3 speed sensors for ABS, but I don't see any speedo problem caused by a front sensor. Can't ignore cause and effect though, with what you left disconnected.

I have a lot of the 2000 EVTM, so if you can read a schematic, send me a PM and e-mail address; I'll send it to you. If you don't want to fix it correctly ($), then splice the remaining front sensor to the disconnected side. Same signal feeding both front inputs, cheating.
It's only two wires per side. Tie YE/BK to TN/BK, and tie YE/RD to TN/OG.

Easiest place to do that splicing is at the ABS Module with those squeeze scotchlocks, so you can undo it easily when you decide you don't like BOTH front wheels getting ABS pulses if either wheel locks up (lengthening your stopping distances).

I suppose the 99 PVH hub looks different than the 2000. I used the front sensor removal as a way to pump fresh grease into the unit hub of my old 2000 when I rebuilt the front suspension (stock).

Here's what they look like (that sensor is removed):

 
so easily what you are saying is splice one side into the other and it will tell the computer that both sides are working the same? So I would runs wires from one side to the other? Thanks
 
Easiest place to do that splicing is at the ABS Module with those squeeze scotchlocks, so you can undo it easily when you decide you don't like BOTH front wheels getting ABS pulses if either wheel locks up (lengthening your stopping distances).
 

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