99 ranger, 100K miles - what to do to make it really reliable?

[red99naz]

I have had this truck for 8 1/2 years, and other than battery failures (a once every other year expectation here in the hot Phoenix area), it has been pretty bulletproof, but always as a second car. Now, it is about to become my only car, so I want to do what is needed to insure I can rely on it.

So, for details - it is a 1999 step side (sport) with 2.5L 4, 5 speed 2WD and basic XLS package, plus deer hoof allow wheels.

It started life in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and I bought it from its second owner down here in Arizona. I bought it from him in October 2004 with 71,000. I have done the brakes (including replacing the rusted out rotors), ball joints, tires, previously mentioned batteries, and a bit of minor body work (my daughter learned to drive on it…).

It has always been tough to get into gear from neutral when hot. Either I go direct to gear without letting the clutch out at a stop, or work it in starting with 4th. This may be the infamous slave issue, but it doesn’t creep like that issue causes. Whatever the case, it has been that way as long as I have had it, and has neither gotten worse nor better, so I just live with it.

There is no evidence the clutch is near end of life, and I have tried to encourage slipping by releasing the clutch under high throttle in 4th gear at 25 MPH. No slippage, so it seems OK. The front seal of the differential seeps a bit, but there have never been any oil/coolant/etc. puddles.

I have run fuel system cleaner such as Techron thru it about once a year though it has never shown any significant signs of dirty injectors – mainly just being careful. I haven’t changed the coolant in a while, so that is up. Spark Plugs should be done too, and I got a replacement fuel filter, etc.

As I stated, the truck started like in the snow / rust belt, but there are no obvious signs of rust beyond minor surface rust on the frame rails, and that hasn’t grown in the time I have had it.

So given the above, what else should I look at? I realize that these 4 cylinder Rangers are pretty much bullet proof, and to many of you would say this guy is just a baby, but I do need to do what I can just to be safe.

Ideas?

 

[adsm08]

Sounds like you are on top of it already man. If you want to be super proactive you might put a fuel pump, alternator, and water pump in it. IMO though it is better to just set some money aside and save it for when one of those items actually breaks.

A thermostat and degas bottle/radiator cap at coolant change would be good PM.

 

[Andy D]

I would check out every bit of the brake hard lines . I'm not familiar with the I4 engine, but it should be due for a timing belt if so equipped. I would drain and refill the transmission and rear end. Maybe the power steering and coolant too. How is the front end? That is the cheap and easy stuff. The whole trick with an old car is to keep ahead of the its small leaks.

 

[red99naz]

Some good input. Of course it reminded me of a couple things I have done that I forgot - Alternator and timing belt. So those are done.

But the thermostat radiator cap make a lot of sense at the same time as coolant.

The trans fluid too. The book says the diff oil is good for life, and I know the previous owner had to replace an axle seal, so I suspect the fluid was changed then. Something to do eventually though.

And I forgot the starter. It is slow to retract when cold, so the teeth clash a bit. Only when the engine is cold and the temp is below 70*, so I am guessing its simply got oil sludge in it that loosens up when warm. I think I might be able to shoot some engine degreaser on it, and wash it clean.

Any other ideas?

 

[straycat]

As long as you maintain it (fluid changes and inspect all belts and brake parts and lines) and fix any leaks you will have a truck that should last a long time. Dif fluid needs to be changed at certain mileages. You need to get a service manual to see what needs to be done at certain intervals. Ask a dealer about it as well.

 

[adsm08]

The book says it is good for life, in reality it should be changed between 75 and 100K miles.

 

[chrisser]

I'm new to Rangers (and Fords) so I'm not familiar with some of the specifics. But here are some ideas...

With regards to the differentials, a lot of cars you can drain and refill the diff without taking the cover off.

IMHO, I'd invest in a gasket or RTV and remove the inspection cover and take a look inside. Check for sludge or metal bits at the bottom of the case, verify the condition of the gears/teeth, etc. Just for precautionary purposes. Takes more time, but doesn't cost much more.

I didn't see anyone mention u-joints. Worth checking and greasing if they're greasable.

If you have or can obtain the equipment (parts stores may rent a setup), it wouldn't hurt to occassionally pressure test the cooling system. Sometimes you'll get a seap or small leak that goes unnoticed - better to find and fix while small than when it opens up and strands you. I have a setup and routinely check the system whenever I do any work on it, just to verify it's all sealed up when I'm done.

The soft brake lines can look fine but deteriorate over time on the inside. Usually not too pricey to replace, but you have to bleed the system afterwards. Brake fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture from the environment. This eventually causes the lines to rust from the inside out. I repeatedly bleed the system about every two years to flush out all the dark fluid. Usually suck the old fluid out of the resevoir with a turkey baster, then it takes about 1/2 to 1 large bottle of brake fluid to flush out all the lines unitl it comes out clear at the wheels. May be a little more complicated to do if you have ABS.

Likewise heater and radiator hoses are good to change out when they get old - most of the problems come from the inside out, although in your area it may come from the oustide too. Failure is usually a tow truck event and potentially engine-damaging.

There was a thread recently about debris accumulating in the heater box and getting burned by the blower motor resistors. Wouldn't hurt to pull the blower and vacuum that area out if you're feeling ambitious.

We only drive older vehicles (don't want a car payment or high insurance). My best investment is AAA with the Gold option. They'll tow any of our cars up to something like 150miles to anywhere I specify. There's a limit to tows per year, but even with me trying to keep 3 100,000+ mile vehicles on the road at any given time, we've never exceeded the limit.

 

[bigtruck94]

check your brake pads and lines. Those are a must need things.

 

[red99naz]

Thanks all. So far it looks like mostly routine stuff; nothing huge, and stuff I can do over the next few months as I have time.

On the clutch, other than loading it down to look for slip, is there anything I can do to test it? Mine seems fine, but unless the first owner replaced it in the first 60K miles (unlikely) it is at 100+. I realize modern clutches last a long time, but that is the one big ticket item i fear. But I don't want to drop $1000 "just in case". (Note - I dont have a garage to do it in myself).

 

[veefer800canuck]

You might try flushing the clutch bigtime until the fluid runs clear, just don't suck any air into the system.

Mine had a bunch of white crud come out of it at first, and the clutch felt a lot better afterwards, once it was all bled and flushed clear though.

Other than that, flush and change fluids like everyone else has suggested, and inspect the crap out of everything, especially the brakes. Might want to give the brakes a thorough bleeding and flushing too, just to get the contaminants out of the system.

Saves wear on the brake components and extends their life to get all the old black fluid and moisture out of the system, etc.

Oh, and clean and repack the front wheel bearings, maybe pop a set of seals in there at the same time.

 

[chrisser]

Another approach you could take would be to set aside some cash for future maintenance.

Then, when routine items come up, you expand that maintenance to cover other, related parts pre-emptively.

Like, when the pads are ready to replace, you also do rotors, calipers, flexible lines, parking cables, etc.

Get a leaky seal on the differential, or instead of just changing the fluid, you replace all the seals, bearings, etc.

Water pump starts to leak, you replace the t-stat, cap, all hoses, belts, flush the cooling system.

 

[hdmm]

Sounds like you are on top of it already man. If you want to be super proactive you might put a fuel pump, alternator, and water pump in it. IMO though it is better to just set some money aside and save it for when one of those items actually breaks.

A thermostat and degas bottle/radiator cap at coolant change would be good PM.

I agree, I'd just keep doing basic maintnece and keep on driving it. My '98 with a 2.5 / auto had over 280k on it when I sold it and it was still going strong. I only had to replace minor things throughout the years I owned it (bought it with a little over 30k on it).