• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

'98 Specs?


Silverado

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
68
City
Fort McMurray, AB Canada
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Manual
Update: Now A Journal Of The High Mileage Ranger Lol

I'VE DECIDED TO CHANGE THIS THREAD TO A JOURNAL OF THE FUN OF BUYING A HIGH MILEAGE TRUCK. UPDATES IN RED AS I GO, AND SUGGESTIONS WELCOME!

UPDATE: I bought this truck on Saturday. She's high on the miles (283000Km), body and interior are decent. Body actually shows less rust in the usual places than I expected. I had it up on a hoist before I bought it, and here's my assessment (this from a carpenter, not a mechanic LOL)

New rear shocks very recently. Right rear leaf spring is devoid of front clamp? (The ring that holds the leafs together) but truck sits level. Drive shaft and U-joints don't show any excessive play. Rear end was rebuilt this year; new gears, carrier and seals. Rear brakes were done at the same time.

Tranny mounts seem tight. No leakage from transmisson or transfer case.

Front end seems tight. No play in wheel bearings or tie rods. Front shocks look to be original. Front end bushings probably could use replacing.

Entire truck shows some rust underneath, but thin edges of body and frame are not soft; I checked with a pair of vise grips. The exhaust system pipes aren't soft either.

No leaks from under engine bay; the oil pan seal is wet, but not dripping, just seems to be seeping a bit. All rad hoses are in good shape, as is serpentine belt.

No dents or damage to skid plates or undercarriage.

Engine starts strong and idles like a purring kitten. No top end noise, knocking ticking clicking or squeaks. Power steering pump is noisy... likely tired.

January 2nd: I have a new PS pump sitting in a box. I'd love to change it, but I can't get the damned pulley off the old one! I don't have the specific puller, but tried a 3 arm puller that I have, and it wouldn't budge. Have to get the right one and try again I guess.

Battery and plug wires have been replaced at some point; all look good.

SHORT TEST DRIVE NOTES: Brakes are good and strong, no fade. Clutch seems good; no chatter or slippage noted, engages and disengages fine, no groans creaks or squeals. Tranny shifts up and down into all gears no problem, no grinding into reverse. No excessive gear noise noted. No shaking or strong vibes in shifter while moving in any gear.

This thing is a bit gutless; coming from a 325hp/610tq Cummins, this is to be expected HAHA.

There seems to be no hesitation or missing through throttle travel or RPM range. Throttle pedal is a touch sticky at the beginning; lube needed.

ISSUE #1: There is a muted knock from the engine under acceleration/load, most notable in 2nd and 3rd gear. My ear tells me it's coming from the driver's side of the engine/engine bay. COULD THIS BE A LEAK IN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD? It doesn't really sound internal to me, and doesn't exist when revving the motor unloaded, or while cruising. COULD THIS BE PLUG/IGNITION/TIMING RELATED? COULD SOMETHING JUST BE LOOSE UNDER THERE? I intend to pull the plugs and have a look today.

EDIT December 29th: The above issue was the EGR valve. Computer finally threw the code while I was in Calgary for Christmas. After chasing all over Calgary to find one, I went to install it. The fitting that threads into the bottom was seized solid... and I do mean solid. The whole EGR valve body was super rusty. Tap, twist, heat, penetrating oil, bigger wrench, more oil, more heat, BIGGER wrench... it finally broke loose. And twisted the end of the EGR pipe like a drinking straw. I remembered curse words I had forgotten. I cut the pipe with a hacksaw, and continued to remove the valve. One of the bolts came out like butter. The other came out 1/4", then twisted right off. More ancient curse words. I drove back to Fort Mac with the old valve in, a screw in the vacuum hose, and the sound of the crushed end of the EGR tube rumbling in the cab. Now I have a new EGR pipe on order from Edmonton.

UPDATE JANUARY 3RD: New EGR pipe came in today. Having a brainstorm, I cut the old one with a hacksaw right at the nut, so I could get a socket and long breaker bar on it. When it broke loose, it was actually the nipple in the manifold that loosened first. I took it out, held it in a vise, and finally managed to get the nut to come loose. I would have liked to chase the threads on the nipple, but don't have a die anywhere near that big. Got everything back on, and was only able to use a little pipe wrench on the nut to get it tight.

Is there even such thing as a flare wrench in 1" or bigger sizes? Would have been nice LOL


Engine turns off and starts hot with no problems.

ISSUE #2: There is a slight shimmy from the passenger rear wheel while driving. Possible unbalanced tire... COULD THIS BE A WHEEL BEARING? I plan to put new tires on it soon; will see after tire replacement.

ISSUE #3: The 4X4 doesn't engage! Having spent some time here on The RangerStation learning about these trucks, I instantly suspect the vacuum pulse hubs. Transfer case shifts into and out of 4HI and 4LOW no problem. Just no drive to the front wheels. Up on the hoist it goes. When in 4WD, the front drive shaft and CV shafts are turning, but the wheels aren't. I bet the vacuum seals are gone. In any case I see there is a $0.50 fix here, as well as some AVM manual hubs available.

UPDATE: I did the easy fix locking them permanently, and they're working like a charm now. When I go to replace the hub/bearing assemblies, I'll put the AVM hubs in.


END RESULT THUSFAR: I negotiated the seller down by $1500 for the non functional 4X4 and bought the truck. Time for a 250KM trip back to the city, and then an 800KM trip home in a couple days.

LONG TEST DRIVE NOTES: Other than the shimmy noted above (which is there, but not severe) the truck drives just fine. TOTALLY GUTLESS in 5th gear on the hiway LOL

ISSUE #4: After a prolonged period of hiway driving, the ABS light comes on. I suspect it's a bad sensor. Stupid sensors.

I had noted a slight, faint speed related clicking under braking in town. With ABS light on, ticking is gone. Brakes still work fine. Possibly the RABS controller?

ISSUE #5: The front end is creaky when going over dips on the highway. Confirmed going over dips/bumps in the city. Possibly the front shocks are tired, possibly bushings need replacing... ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? There is no knocking or play in the front end or steering, just groany, creaky noises.

UPDATE FROM CHRISTMAS EVE: The driver's side sway bar link broke. I bought a pair of Moog replacements and put them in, complete with new bushings and whatnot. Much better looking parts than the originals with the plastic spacers IMO. The originals were so seized I had to surgically remove them with a grinder LOL

UPDATE NEW YEAR'S DAY: I replaced both front shocks today. The originals were so badly rusted that I was able to put my thumb through the upper cover. Also twisted the top mounting bolt right off one of them. Creaking noises are now gone.

One thing I noticed is that the left and right upper control arms are not the same at all. The passenger side one is a bolt together affair, while the driver's is one piece. I presume the pass side one is a replacement?


FINAL ISSUES: The previous owner had installed some really cheesy red lights under the dash with a toggle switch. These are going out the window at my earliest opportunity. He had also messed with the stereo: it's an aftermarket unit with a little equalizer under it. The EQ doesn't work. There are wires sticking out of the rear speakers; I suspect he had an amp that he took with him. I hope to rip that junk out and find a stock radio, maybe with a CD player. I'm more of an AM radio guy myself LOL. I will be installing my Sirius radio that I took out of my Ram.

The airbag light is on. After a search here, I'll look at the sensor under the passenger seat.

The clearcoat has come off the rims in places, leaving the alloy oxidized. Perhaps if time permits I'll sandblast and re-clear them. Probably not.

Prev. Owner had those cheesy blue tinted headlamps installed. Those will be going in the garbage today. Gone. I installed GE Nighthawks that I had leftover from my Ram; handy that they both use a 9007!

Console lid clip is broken. Time for velcro.

UPDATE: Used a bungee cord instead LOL

Wiper arm springs are tired. Will install some of those external booster springs; have had good results in the past.


SO FRIENDS, ANY SUGGESTIONS ON THE ISSUES NOTED ABOVE? All in all I feel this truck has only minor problems all things considered; I hope it will give me a year worth of service with the proper TLC.

THANKS!
 
Last edited:
the rear is a 7.5 front is the d35 and the transfer case should be a bw1354 as far as gears its hard to say. if it has the offroad package they should be 3.73ls. but otherwise its prob a 3.55 or so. great truck i had one myself with the offraod and 3.73. the hubs suck but there is ways to fix them. and good luck replacing bearing in the front. last i check they came from ford and cost a butt load due to they were part of the vacume system. other then that it was a great all around truck and i could not kill the motor. hell the rear destroyed its self before i could brake anything else. mostly due to pulling out fullsiezes that couldnt seam to make it threw the mud wholes my stock ranger could with some tires.
 
It is a 4x4... I'm not sure about the off road package though. How would you tell?

It will say "4x4 Off Road" on the rear fender :D

They were pretty much the offroad decals, shocks, skidplates and a better chance of having lower gears. There should be a axle code on the door you can look up to get the exact gearing. There is also a tag on each axle if you can't make out the door label.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html
 
I used to have a '99 Ranger 4x4, 3.0/5 spd, non-off-road pkg, it had 3.73 gears. I think the Off-Road got you 4.10 gears because it included bigger 16" wheels and tires.
Good on gas for a 4x4 but slow as molasses.
 
i have a 98 3.0 4x4 5 speed that has 196,000 and i wheel it when i can. i've pulled many trailers etc. i've replaced the alternator and rear end but thats about it. It's been a great truck for the money but i've seen others just like mine that were not good trucks at all.

In 1998 the lowest gears these trucks had were 3.73.

By the way i have a friend that owns a 1999 4x4 3.0 EX. cab with 4.10's and a 7.5 axle.
 
I have a 1999 3.0L Auto Regular Cab with absolutly NO options except a L/S rear diff and engine block heater.

It has the 7.5 with a l/s and 4.10 gears.

Oh and it has 15 inch tires too....

Has the same axle as my B2.

IIRC, all 2.3/2.5 and 3.0L got the 7.5. The 4.0L got the 8.8.

I can't believe I saw a almost brand new F-150 with an 8.8 under it the other night.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top