97, 4.0, v6, 4x4, dana35, TTB, reg cab, 6' bed, 4r55e,i high ryder, red, New Jersey plant, "Strider"

[salty_ranger218]

I picked up my truck a few months ago on FB marketplace for $800. I have since replaced all the brake lines & hoses, and front calipers, U-joint (found another broken one today), wheel bearings, spindle bearings, cruise buttons, plugs & wires...I think that's it...So I'm already getting pretty invested in the truck. After driving it a few weeks I don't want any other truck. I want to daily this truck, 4 mile commute northern MN, and occasionally drive it 200 miles to my family's hunting land in northern WI. It needs a whole lot of parts and work. I'm capable of doing most of the work needed to keep the truck on the road, but I'm not set up for engine internals or transmission rebuilds. I could use some advice! Fixing this truck is going to cost me a fortune in tools and parts but not as much as a new truck that I don't really want. I have access to a total dump of a garage but I'm working outside primarily.

Trans feels like reverse may go some time soon, as well as a shudder in false 2nd (i think).
likely needs full engine rebuild but runs ok.
Vacuum leak
possible head gasket leak (white smoke smells like gas but idles great)
misfires occasionally needs coil pack
a/c is out, very rusty lines need to be replaced
parking brake miraculously still works but rear drums and front pads are needed
Rust is not fatal in my opinion. I've scraped around with a screwdriver and I cant find any holes and it still sounds like solid metal all around the frame. The body is disappearing but isn't caving in yet. I think I have some time to learn how to weld. (My wife and I have no kids so I have a lot of free time)

What would you do if you were in my position? Go ahead and roast me if you want, maybe I need a reality check. I'm debating selling the truck, a 2010 carolla, and a subaru outback and getting 1 decent AWD boring terrible ugly crossover suv that my wife wants and waiting for a different dream truck.

 

[franklin2]

I see a lot of feeling and thinking, but no testing and proof something is bad before replacing it. Remember, new parts are not like they were. If you have a original part that is serviceable, keep it and cherish it. Don't replace something just to be replacing it, you will usually end up with more problems than you started with. New parts if you can get them can be very lousy quality. And like you mentioned, are not cheap.

 

[Lefty]

You have a very nice old truck.

I've spent about $16,000 restoring mine. The whole idea may sound crazy but then again, it's not. I've got a brand new truck for all intents and purposes, and for less than half the price of a new one. I may need another engine in ten years, but I do not care. I have no monthly payments and no depreciation. Another engine would cost far less.

I would recommend another coat of paint, especially on the frame. Yours will last a very long time.

 

[RonD]

You don't mention the miles on the Ranger?

If pushing or past 250k then trans would be close to rebuild time
No "false" 2nd on a 4R55E, that was 5R55E in 1998 and up, just FYI
Although I have read of late 1997s having 5Rs, but doesn't really matter 2nd was a "computer gear" not a transmission gear
Add some "trans fix" fluid and see if Reverse gets more reliable
"Trans fix" fluids cause gaskets and seals to swell to seal any internal leaks in the Valve body, won't hurt anything
Forward gears need 100psi fluid pressure to engage, Reverse requires 150psi to engage, so if there are leaky gaskets and seals it effects Reverse first, which is why automatics often lose Reverse first

4.0l OHV bottom end was/is good for 400k+
Heads could crack and head gaskets blow if ever overheated
Not hard to install new heads
Replace spark plugs and spark plug wires first, the coil packs rarely broke, but inspect it and look for cracks
Motorcraft or Autolite spark plugs will last the longest, NGK is 3rd but OK
Use regular copper or Double Coating, never single coating


4mile drive is bad for any gas or diesel engines, get electric or hybrid
Engine coolant needs to warm up to 190degF and stay there for at least 10min to burn off condensation inside the engine and clean up the oils contaminants
So get a remote start to heat up engine first or it will get very sludgy inside