95 3.0 ranger transmission compatibility

[Ranger Rod]

thread carry over from 3.0 short block compatability

Today...

Got the fargin thing out, the other cross member mounting bolt slid out without any incident so wangled out that side instead, and the electrical plug believe it or not fell off in my hand when I touched it, go figure! (when made visible to the eye the metal clip is hinged and works much like those screw in hooks for locking screen doors). For anyone about to attempt taking the tranny out, be advised that to remove the Y pipe will make life easier, I did not but took off manifolds to gain a couple inches because I am not using torches or air tools and still I had to get angry with it and yank the crap out of it, not to sure how I will get the sucker back in yet. I was one step away from yanking the motor again and going through the engine compartment, which if someone is going to do anything to their tranny I advise that route in this case if motor is coming out anyway and you don't have a hoist.

Scoured the wrecker where I originally found the good block looking for a suitable transmission, the fella assures me that the 98 tranny is electronic shift and will not work for me and did not want to sell me the one out of a 95 in the back 40 because he had no idea about it's history.

I did manage a DIS core for $10.00, with a superb gear from the 95 which had the tranny he would not sell to me. It was the body which was toasted on it so I thought although it had 266,000km's and being the DIS gear was so pristine, it was worth the chance, but at any rate....

So the hunt continues for a 95 or 96 transmission, as apparently no other year will do it. I suppose it is worth a call to Mr. Transmission to inquire how much to re:&re: the pump. The TC was wobling on the spline and yet required putting a chain from one stud to anouther and prying with a long 2x4 in order to jar it loose, no visable damage to TC but small inner spline came out on its own and, I could see where the seal ran when all was fine, and again where the seal ran say an inch or two along the spline when not fine.

Can anyone advise as to the validity of 95 and 96 being the only compatibility here?

 

[dorman68]

I have access to a salvage interchange index. Assuming that your ranger is a 3.0L with auto trans and 2wd the following are interchangeable for your truck.


MAZDA B-3000 1995-96 A.T.; 4x2
RANGER 1995-96 A.T.; 6-183 (3.0L), 4x2

 

[Ranger Rod]

Thanks dorman68,

One wrecker said $700.00, anouther $350.00 (pay your money take your chances).

Mister Tansmission inspected my damage and started at a $1000.00 to do a complete rebuild and then came down to $800.00 cash out the door with a fresh torque converter and fluid included. Three other shops quoted from $1000.00 to $1500.00 to rebuild.

I am leaning towards the rebuild and be done with it, do these numbers sound right to you folks?

 

[TomB1269]

9 out of 10 a reman trans will do you about as good as brand new. Lot better than the time and effor to swap in a boneyard trans to find out it has to be rebuilt as well. Just remember you get what you pay for. The cheapest may not be worth it. Are any of the shops adding as shift kit to the build??? Utiliziting the TSB/rework gasket in the valvue body (may not be an issue for your model year). Do they warranty their work (labor too), or are you on your own again just a grand +$$ lighter?

 

[Ranger Rod]

Thanks tomb1269, that is the conclusion I came to once I finally digested the dollar signs, I do not want to go through the trouble again even though I am so over budget on the project and really don't have the funds to do anything let alone this rebuild.

The job is getting done at MR Transmission which is reputable, they built the 727 in my 69 340 dart and I never any had probs with it. No one was offering a shift kit in their quotes (something I don't need as I am becoming a slow poke with maturity), however, even being a cash deal these fellas will warranty the job fully so long as they see the vehicle and that it is installed and running at the time of viewing. They will wash the units guts and sand the drums on a lathe, re&re the buggared pump & bushing and change any O-rings or hardened plunger seals, not that I fully know what any of means, but I presume for the amount of coin involved it will be good as new which for them is good for their long standing business reputation.

It is for the best I suppose, to have it this way as it was beginning to take its sweet ole time going into gear on cool mornings and, the fluid was smelling a tad funky, so when all is said and done I should be good for the life of the truck given that I did all three u-joints and the hanger bearing last summer. All that remains to go in the drive train is the rear end (crosses fingers).

 

[Ranger Rod]

Project complete!

In summary, I found it easy to crank the rebuild tranny into place by first unbolting the exhaust manifolds and drawing the entire Y pipe forward with a tie down secured to the bumper through the grill while the power steering bracket and assembly was out for repair, then running a nylon rope through the two upper most mounting holes then up behind the block and onto a come along which was intern secured to the tree branch which I used to hoist the engine in with. This enabled me to take my time in lining things up precisely, bolting up a fraction at a time until confident everything was meshing properly.

I won the battle with the help of the soldiers here at TRS. It was an interesting voyage and I learned allot. The most important thing to me is remembering that when your dip stick suddenly shows twice the amount of oil than you put in, you have a cracked head of faulty head gasket. The same goes for when you search and search for where your coolant is going and you have no answer, "head problems". In the absents of a COLAPSED lifter and too the presence a ticking hydraulic lifter simultaneously, it is more than likely the result of poor oil pressure, in this case because of washed and worn and perhaps even spun cam bearings (excess space allowance prevents oil from creating pressure to lifters). Of course messing the tranny properly is very important, I am just fortunate that I was in need of rebuilding the unit anyway or it would have spelled disaster.

Again, thanks to all who contributed in kind, laughed and or poked fun at this backyard mechanic.

 

[rurouni20xx]

congrats always nice to hear another ranger is back on the road!