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94 ranger not starting


Fuel pump is good.

Next check will be the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal.

Thanks.

you said it cranks over so that means IT IS NOT THE CLUTCH POSITIONING SWITCH.. POST #10 MAKES SENSE YOU NEED TO DETERMINE IF YOU HAVE FUEL AND SPARK. post #12 has some good info but is jumping to conclusions. spray starter fluid or pour a few tablespoons of gas into the TB. if it fires at all you have spark. you also could test the wires for spark. if you end up having both fuel and a spark than it is most likely your crankshaft positioning sensor. A lot of times when the CPS sensor goes it throws a code for it. YOU CAN'T JUST SAY THE "FUEL PUMP IS GOOD". THIS FORUM WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU GIVE US DETAILED INFO OF WHAT IS HAPPENING. why do you think the fuel pump is good? did you test it? I will be glad to help you. I have a BB and get my emails immediately. give us some feedback as you test the truck and we will help. test for fuel and spark. a lot of times when you have no codes at all it is a fuel pressure problem.
 
you said it cranks over so that means IT IS NOT THE CLUTCH POSITIONING SWITCH.. POST #10 MAKES SENSE YOU NEED TO DETERMINE IF YOU HAVE FUEL AND SPARK. post #12 has some good info but is jumping to conclusions. spray starter fluid or pour a few tablespoons of gas into the TB. if it fires at all you have spark. you also could test the wires for spark. if you end up having both fuel and a spark than it is most likely your crankshaft positioning sensor. A lot of times when the CPS sensor goes it throws a code for it. YOU CAN'T JUST SAY THE "FUEL PUMP IS GOOD". THIS FORUM WILL ONLY WORK IF YOU GIVE US DETAILED INFO OF WHAT IS HAPPENING. why do you think the fuel pump is good? did you test it? I will be glad to help you. I have a BB and get my emails immediately. give us some feedback as you test the truck and we will help. test for fuel and spark. a lot of times when you have no codes at all it is a fuel pressure problem.

Check the fuel pump by doing what is quoted here :

K. Try this next. If you haven't tried to start it say in the last 30 minutes with the door open turn the ignition key to the on position. You should hear the fuel pump spool up pressure, kinda like a WIRRRR noise. It's very short and stops. If you don't hear this grab a test light and check at the fuel pump harness plug. Turn the key to the on position and see if you have power to the pump. If you do then you have the same issue I had last month. Bad Fuel Pump.

I could hear it running , tested the plug anyway and it had power.

It is getting fuel , I can smell it on the plugs.

It is getting spark , I tested it by pulling a plug wire and cranking it over and could see it arcing on a metal surface.

Now if it was the CPS you said it would throw a code , it is not. Only one code came back and that was for the neutral safety switch.
 
Check the fuel pump by doing what is quoted here :



I could hear it running , tested the plug anyway and it had power.

It is getting fuel , I can smell it on the plugs.

It is getting spark , I tested it by pulling a plug wire and cranking it over and could see it arcing on a metal surface.

Now if it was the CPS you said it would throw a code , it is not. Only one code came back and that was for the neutral safety switch.

lets assume you have comprssion, you said you have a spark and fuel. so the only thing missing is timing. when you go to start it do you get any firing at all. does it feel like it might fire?. or is it just cranking away. the CPS code comes on sometimes but not always. You said you changed the valve covers and then it would not start. did you disconnect any wire and not put it back etc. usually when you do work and then it will not start it is related to the work you did.......
 
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have you checked for codes again since you have been cranking it. how do you check for codes with a reader or by using the blinking light.
 
If you have fuel on the plugs you don't have spark. I would venture a guess that a wire is either disconnected or a wire is shorted. Run your hand around the valve covers and make sure a wire isn't trapped underneath one of them.
 
I did not do the valve covers myself because I was busy. I regret not doing them myself now.......

It cranks and does not feel like it is going to fire at all.

I have checked the wiring and vacuum lines and nothing I can find is disconnected , except the one I showed a picture of on page one and I could not find what it would plug into.

I checked codes after I tried to start it this morning and it was still only flashing 5-2-2 and I am checking it by watching the check engine light.
 
If you have fuel on the plugs you don't have spark. I would venture a guess that a wire is either disconnected or a wire is shorted. Run your hand around the valve covers and make sure a wire isn't trapped underneath one of them.

he siad he is getting both fuel and a spark.that is why i was thinking of the CPS, however it is strange that he did the work and then it would not start.
 
Like I said , I did not do the valve covers myself.
 
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Like I said , I did not do the valve covers myself.

but once the valve covers were changed it never started again. Did you have it at a mechanic. he changed the covers and then you had it towed out of there because it would not start. just for the heck of it check the fuses especially a 15 amp alternator fuse in the power distribution box.

here is what the code 522 means Vehicle not in PARK or NEUTRAL during KOEO.
 
but once the valve covers were changed it never started again. Did you have it at a mechanic. he changed the covers and then you had it towed out of there because it would not start. just for the heck of it check the fuses especially a 15 amp alternator fuse in the power distribution box.

here is what the code 522 means Vehicle not in PARK or NEUTRAL during KOEO.

No , my brother changed them for me.

Checked the fuses last night and all of them were good. I will recheck them though.

I got exactly what the code meant off of this site.

(O) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP transmission MLP sensor out of range in park - Transmissions
 
Alright lets think about this. The sensor is telling us something but I doubt it's the problem. First don't blame your brother and make sure he knows this. If he's home have him show you what he did. Go through the procedure he use to remove the vavle covers. Ask him if he had to move a cable harness or wires. Did he have to disconnect any plugs? Look at stuff like that.
 
if you told me that you came out one morning went to start it and it would not start, that you then checked and you have fuel and spark. I would say your CPS is bad...........however I have learned that 95% of the time if something happens right after working on the truck it is usually related to the work done. I guess it is possible you blew out the cps.......as you know it is best to disconnect the neg bat cable whenver doing work like that on the truck
 
Sadly , my brother lives 4 hours away. I don't blame him , stuff happens.

I am going to go over everything around the intake and valve covers again to check and make sure nothing is pinched or unhooked.

I know he did take the upper intake off to replace the valve covers.
 
This is what I'm thinking. If you use the clutch fault for a starting point. When you push on the clutch peddle the switch shorts to ground. This sends the signal to the CPS of ground. Hook your test light between the clutch peddle switch and the wire. With the key on when the peddle is pushed you should see the light come on. It might be dim. I'm not sure if it's 5 volts or 12 volts. It would be better if you used a meter. You could pull the wire off and using the meter check it to ground. I you don't get any voltage it means that either a plug is off. It might be the a plug is just not seated all the way on. Or the CPS could be bad.
 
he probably took the TPS sensor off......did he connect back up properly?
 

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