93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


The side with the oil fill should be dirty while the opposite side should be rusted, often from the inside out... LOL
Nope. Insides of both look great. Outsides of both were rusty and paint flaking off.
 
They only rust from the inside if they get run short trips so they don't get warmed up and moisture keeps getting trapped up in the valve covers.
 
It always confused me how bad Dodge/Ram oil pans rotted out.

How in the name of all that is Holy is the bottom of a Mopar engine coated with oil and grease on both sides rusting out?

My theory is like the body sheetmetal seemed to be it was already rusty before it was painted at the factory. :dntknw:
 
Well, the cardiologist said I can go back to work. BMW's Industrial Health Department says "not while you're wearing that defibrillator." So, i have an appointment on June 12 to have my heart function tested. Then, on June 23 to review the test results.

Looks like I have until June 23 to work on my engine swap project "carefully". My only real interruptions should be cardiac rehab sessions 3 mornings per week and exercising on my own each day. I might be able to get something done over the next 2 months. :secret::icon_thumby:
 
I think it's the exhaust manifolds causing the rust, they're only 1/2" away... burning off the oil sheen from them burning out the valve cover gaskets...
 
Speaking of exhaust manifolds, I removed the Y-pipe studs today. I've been soaking them with penetrating oil for over 4 weeks. 3 came out easy when I put the impact on the clamping nuts. The last one, only the nut came off. Used the induction heater and eventually persuaded the last stud to spin out.

I also worked on my new steering wheel. It didn't come with a key. So I carefully drilled the cylinder out. No damage. It should be easy to install a new cylinder after I clean and lubricate everything. The cruise control buttons are wired differently than I need for the 96 cruise servo. So I studied that for a while. It looks like all I have to do is reverse 2 of the slip ring connections and splice a 1,000 ohm resistor into the wire coming from the "on" button. Should be easy. With no airbag in the way, there is lots of room for wiring in the center of this steering wheel. Another win for owning OLD shitboxes.

Back of steering wheel center cover
20260422_161948.jpg


Exhaust with y-pipe connections removed.
20260422_162031.jpg
 
I've always wondered how an early Bronco y-pipe or front exhaust would fit in a RBV with those manifolds.

Getting down from the manifolds is the hard part, after that it is pretty easy to DIY the exhaust.
 
I've always wondered how an early Bronco y-pipe or front exhaust would fit in a RBV with those manifolds.

Getting down from the manifolds is the hard part, after that it is pretty easy to DIY the exhaust.

I had an exhaust shop build me a Y pipe of that style and my buddy had the same thing built for his EB. Works fine for both of us but the driveshaft hits it in the same spot on both trucks if the suspension fully compresses. (we both had 302's and Dana 44's.) It only dented in about 1/2" on mine so a better bump stop would prevent it.
 
I know I said I was going to work on the engine. But my mood changed. I've been playing with wires. First, I worked on the engine compartment wiring harness (minus the actual engine harness). I attempted to strip out everything I don't want - ABS, crash sensor, DRL stuff, about 1/2 of the lighting wiring, heater blower wiring, AC wiring and a few other miscellaneous bits. Next, I pulled what I think I want and need from the dash wiring harness. I got all that 90% complete. The remainder must wait until installation. I left all the extra wires coiled up near the firewall connectors until I'm sure I don't need them.

What I will finally have, in the end, is a combination of the original Ranger harness and what currently remains from the Explorer harness. Several reasons for this.

First, as mentioned previously, the Explorer is wired to OBDII architecture and the 93 Ranger is EECIV. They are vastly different. Most of the differences are in the engine bay, but many things spill inside.

Second,, I want the newer engine bay fuse/relay box. It has room for more circuits and relays. Pkus, some of those are required for the newer wiring design.

Third, I am keeping an auxilliary relay box in the engine bay. This will be repurposed for the common "headlight relay mod" where we use the switch circuit to control relays for the headlights. This keeps the high current power for the bulbs on shorter wiring and reduces voltage drop from the older circuit. Hence, slightly brighter headlights. The other relays in that box can then be used for auxilliary items like my light bar. I currently have several single relays and fuse holders scattered under the hood. Cleanup time.

There may be a fourth advantage. My electronic dash package from Holley will require roughly 28 wires to pass through the firewall. I may splice these into the "extra" pins on the Explorer & Ranger firewall connectors. I'm not 100% sure about that yet. Keeping them separate would make it easier to troubleshoot the Holley wiring if needed.

So, "do I know what I'm doing?" Only about 85%. But SOMETHING is going to happen. The mechanical is definitely the easier portion of this swap and quicker to execute.

Maybe.

The results of this effort, laid out roughly as it will go into the truck. View from the firewall. Clockwise from bottom right - connector that goes to engine harness, then the 3 firewall connector assemblies, OBDII port below, fuse/relay box, starter relay, auxilliary relay box, then the harnees across the radiator support to serve the cruise servo amplifier and windshield washer pump/tank. Alternator harness across the center with wires going to oil sump level/temp sensor.
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


Fuse/relay box with extra wires available.
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


One of the 3 firewall connectors showing the interior side wires
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


Same connector showing possible spare wires on engine side.
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version
 
There's going to be a yard sale when this is over. Anybody need a fancy HVAC control panel? How about a 1996 GEM with connectors and wiring pigtails? 3-wire inertia switch?

Yeah. I'll post ads later.
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version
 
I might be interested in that HVAC control, it looks in better shape than the one I have…
 

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