93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


The side with the oil fill should be dirty while the opposite side should be rusted, often from the inside out... LOL
Nope. Insides of both look great. Outsides of both were rusty and paint flaking off.
 
They only rust from the inside if they get run short trips so they don't get warmed up and moisture keeps getting trapped up in the valve covers.
 
It always confused me how bad Dodge/Ram oil pans rotted out.

How in the name of all that is Holy is the bottom of a Mopar engine coated with oil and grease on both sides rusting out?

My theory is like the body sheetmetal seemed to be it was already rusty before it was painted at the factory. :dntknw:
 
Well, the cardiologist said I can go back to work. BMW's Industrial Health Department says "not while you're wearing that defibrillator." So, i have an appointment on June 12 to have my heart function tested. Then, on June 23 to review the test results.

Looks like I have until June 23 to work on my engine swap project "carefully". My only real interruptions should be cardiac rehab sessions 3 mornings per week and exercising on my own each day. I might be able to get something done over the next 2 months. :secret::icon_thumby:
 
I think it's the exhaust manifolds causing the rust, they're only 1/2" away... burning off the oil sheen from them burning out the valve cover gaskets...
 
Speaking of exhaust manifolds, I removed the Y-pipe studs today. I've been soaking them with penetrating oil for over 4 weeks. 3 came out easy when I put the impact on the clamping nuts. The last one, only the nut came off. Used the induction heater and eventually persuaded the last stud to spin out.

I also worked on my new steering wheel. It didn't come with a key. So I carefully drilled the cylinder out. No damage. It should be easy to install a new cylinder after I clean and lubricate everything. The cruise control buttons are wired differently than I need for the 96 cruise servo. So I studied that for a while. It looks like all I have to do is reverse 2 of the slip ring connections and splice a 1,000 ohm resistor into the wire coming from the "on" button. Should be easy. With no airbag in the way, there is lots of room for wiring in the center of this steering wheel. Another win for owning OLD shitboxes.

Back of steering wheel center cover
20260422_161948.jpg


Exhaust with y-pipe connections removed.
20260422_162031.jpg
 
I've always wondered how an early Bronco y-pipe or front exhaust would fit in a RBV with those manifolds.

Getting down from the manifolds is the hard part, after that it is pretty easy to DIY the exhaust.
 
I've always wondered how an early Bronco y-pipe or front exhaust would fit in a RBV with those manifolds.

Getting down from the manifolds is the hard part, after that it is pretty easy to DIY the exhaust.

I had an exhaust shop build me a Y pipe of that style and my buddy had the same thing built for his EB. Works fine for both of us but the driveshaft hits it in the same spot on both trucks if the suspension fully compresses. (we both had 302's and Dana 44's.) It only dented in about 1/2" on mine so a better bump stop would prevent it.
 

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