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2.3L ('83-'97) '93 Crankshaft Position Sensor inner workings?


genhawk21

Active Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2021
Messages
44
City
New Mexico
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
I'm trying to get my mind around how we might have fixed the "won't start with SPOUT connected" 1993 Ranger by replacing the crank sensor.

According to the wiring diagrams the CPS has a ground and four pins. Pin 1 = PIP in, goes to pin 4 of the ICM. Pin 2 = Cylinder ID, goes to pin 2 of the ICM. Pin 3 = Ignition ground to Pin 7 of the ICM. Pin 4 = 12v from battery via the ICM pin 1.

My question is how does the sensor actually (physically) generate the outputs for Pins 1 and 2, and are they are one thing or two separate things? Basically trying to figure out whether the CPS could be in a state where it functioned sufficiently to not cause a no start when the SPOUT is disconnected but still providing an incorrect input (CID?) to the ICM when the SPOUT wire is connected. Or in other words, can the PIP work correctly but the CID not work correctly, at the same time? Because if I understand correctly no PIP would result in a no start under all circumstances, so we can rule that out since the truck did start and run with the SPOUT wire disconnected.

Hopefully my question makes sense. I'm gradually learning more about diagnostics and the more I learn the more confused I get. ;)
 
Its a Hall Effect sensor, 12volt version, so generates 12v on/off square wave, thats the PIP signal
It also generates a CID(cylinder ID) that shows when #1 is at TDC(#4 is as well), this is the 4th wire

PIP is the RPM
CID sets when to fire 1/4 spark plugs, 2/3 are fired 180deg later

SPOUT shouldn't effect this, unless computer wasn't getting a good CID
 
If one of the two hall effect sensors had failed that would cause something odd to happen, the crank angle situation wouldn't be as accurate and locking the spark advance in timing mode with the SPOUT disconnected might have allowed it to limp around easier... at least that is my best guess... some engines get mad when the crank sensor or cam sensor are faulty, some work ok with one and not the other...
 
If I'm understanding right then, the actual sensor unit has two different hall effect sensors, one for PIP and one for CID? If that's the case then maybe one was not working right but the other was?

Is there any way to test the old sensor? Kind of a pointless exercise really since the issue is resolved, but I'm curious about it.
 
If you put power and ground to the two pins Ron pointed to then a volt meter between either of the outputs and the ground wire you should see voltage when you pass something metal between one of the two openings.
 
Excellent, maybe I'll give it a try today. I don't feel like getting dirty today and that's a pretty clean project. :)
 

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