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92 4x4 3.5 in lift


sumncguy

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Dec 14, 2016
Messages
98
City
Hillsborough NC
Vehicle Year
1992
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
at least 6"
Tire Size
32x11.5x15
Picked up this truck to do jobs around the house.. pick ups etc.

The lift to me is a little extreme but I dont really care. What I do care about is getting rid of those silly mud tires.

I'd like to go to a steel rim and road all terrain tire.

I've had plenty of 4x4s before but none jacked up like this.

My question is
How do I work backwards to figure out a rim and tire size ? A tire that doesnt necessarily have to be 33 high but should still look ok given the lift .. and that certainly doesnt need to be so aggressive ... a road all terrain would do.
20200912_104528.jpg
20200912_104528.jpg
 
Before you get new tires, get an alignment or DIY. That's serious camber induced wear.

Also post up some pics of the front and rear axles. May have more than just a lift. Never really know what someone else did.

Edit: Tire Size Calculator
 
Yep. Ofcourse. I'm an old guy 57.
Turns out the wheel bearings were in bad need of adjustment and the stabilizer shock was missing bushings. Got that done then the alignment.

But these 12.5 wide muds need to go.
Was thinking a plain Jane black steel wheel and a/t's. Maybe 31x10.5x15.

What do you guys think ? Dont want the truck to look stupid given the lift ... but those 12.5s got to go.
 
But these 12.5 wide muds need to go.
Was thinking a plain Jane black steel wheel and a/t's. Maybe 31x10.5x15.
I think thats a fabulous plan.
 
I honestly think a 31 inch tire is to small... you should spend a few minutes also to figure out your gear ratios. If it has good shift points on those 33's I would probably stay with 33's. But I would go with a 15x8 in wheel and do 33x10.50x15 tires... there are still a couple brands out there in that size. BFG makes them in an all terrain.
 
That and more back spacing, sticking out that far on a Dana 35 is just asking for wheel bearing issues... I've had very little wheel bearing issues in the 10 years I've been running 35"x12.5 tires, but I'm running neutral backspacing (probably 4", don't know or remember, I got the wheels 10 years ago used) 15"x8" wheels
 
That and more back spacing, sticking out that far on a Dana 35 is just asking for wheel bearing issues... I've had very little wheel bearing issues in the 10 years I've been running 35"x12.5 tires, but I'm running neutral backspacing (probably 4", don't know or remember, I got the wheels 10 years ago used) 15"x8" wheels

I have zero experience with this kind of thing. I bought this truck to do work around the house, bring garbage to the dump and pick stuff up, let's say, like new appliances or furniture. I live in the country of NC. Basically it will serve as my clunker workhorse. I have my Street Glide and Civic otherwise.

I got this truck for a song.
There are 2 things I'm trying to resolved

1. Tranny and 4th gear. Have 2 solenoids, vacuum modulator and tune up kit in hand. If that doesnt fix my issue I have a used a4ld auto 4x4 with 87k on it in line for $350. Some of the guys here gave me a few things to try. I was going to do this myself... but when I found out the valve body had to be dropped .. I just dont want to mess with that maze .. pucks springs and bearings. Getting a trusted tranny shop to do it for me.

2. Steering. This is where the tires and rims come in. Its sloppy as hell. Adjustment of the steering gears helped a little but still way to sloppy.
So i did what any wanna be mechanic would do. (Actually I can wrench a bit .. but I pick what I want to do. Lil Lazy)

I crawled under and started to poke around. I found that one of the sway bar links was loose. I mean I could spin the nut and bolt freely with my hand. That bushing is shot. All the sway bar bushings should be here tomorrow. I'll be doing all the easy bushings and boots up front a little at a time leaving the pita's for a real mechanic to do.

Part of getting the steering under control is to bring the rims and tires back down to reality. I don't want to spend the money on dropping the truck.

What I do want to do is to get a steel rim that "belongs" on the truck and a narrower non mud tire.
This should help a bit with steering ofcourse in conjunction with any needed front end work.
So I'm open to keeping a 33 on there .. but not sure about backspacing and offset .. just want a direct fit steel rim that will work.

Please let the suggestions fly .. I'm all ears

Thanks for all the help fellas.

.. and how do I get that military banner ?? U.S Navy 81 to 86.
 
I-beam bushings are probably shot. When that happens, you don't steer the truck, as much as you sorta herd it in the direction you want it to go......
 
.. and how do I get that military banner ?? U.S Navy 81 to 86.

It’s added automatically when you fill out your profile info and click on “US military - veteran”... I took care of it for you.
 
Sway bars won't effect steering, some people flat out remove them for more articulation and get along ok.

Check for play, all the joints in the linkage and the steering box. Also check the rag joint (and u-joint) in the stub shaft between the firewall and the steering box. And where that shaft connects to things, when I first got my truck it was loose between that stub shaft and the steering shaft that goes into the cab.

A little bit of play goes a long ways in the steering box though.
 
I-beam bushings are probably shot. When that happens, you don't steer the truck, as much as you sorta herd it in the direction you want it to go......
That pretty much it ... I'll look them up. Thanks
 
It’s added automatically when you fill out your profile info and click on “US military - veteran”... I took care of it for you.
Thank you !!
 
Sway bars won't effect steering, some people flat out remove them for more articulation and get along ok.

Check for play, all the joints in the linkage and the steering box. Also check the rag joint (and u-joint) in the stub shaft between the firewall and the steering box. And where that shaft connects to things, when I first got my truck it was loose between that stub shaft and the steering shaft that goes into the cab.

A little bit of play goes a long ways in the steering box though.
Yeah but this is .. I dont know .. maybe 2... 4 inches of play either way at the steering wheel. So much so that when i drive it and someone is coming in the opposite direction i pay ALOTof attention.

I'll check the things some of the fellas mentioned here tonight.
 
Can we get some pics of the front axle? I will second what has been said so far; tie rod ends, bushings, rag joint, etc can all lead to sloppy steering.

As far as the wheels go, you'll want something like these:
Pro Comp 15 x 8, 3.75" backspacing, 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern
Wheels Link

You could run run a 32 x 11.50 as a compromise in size between 31 x 10.50 and 33 x 12.50. 33 x 10.50 do also exist.
 

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