2.3L ('83-'97) 92 2.3L Spark knock or rod knock at idle

[white92ranger]

Changed the oil and filter on my 92 2.3L ranger last week (5w-30, motorcraft filter). after starting it to circulate oil it (maybe?) developed a new noise…sounds like marbles in a sock only at idle. the noise can be heard above/below the engine and thru the exhaust at the tail pipe. doesnt quite sound like rod knock to me and it goes away with any rpm. its loud enough to hear inside/outside the cab. its POSSIBLE that it started before the oil change as i dont usually idle it and i usually have the radio on so i might not have heard it. i tried isolating the noise with a rod on my ear touching different parts of the motor and i couldnt pin point anything. it only starts after its been running a few minutes.

i see theres a TSB 9347 about severe detonation at idle in warm ambient temps due to a bad ecm, can this be what im experiencing? it just started getting hot here recently.

this is the first summer i own this truck so i have no idea if its done it before. Does spark knock/detonation sound like marbles in a sock?

 

[white92ranger]

here is a video of the noise, i took the belt off so its clearer. i guess it does change a bit with rpm so probably not detonation? the noise does get a bit worse if it warms up more, didnt want to run it long without the belt on.

so i guess i gotta determine if its lifter noise or bottom end noise…any good way to differentiate them? pull plug wires and see if it stops on a certain cylinder?

https://imgur.com/a/peRy5cb

 

[scotts90ranger]

That's lifter (in this it's technically "lash adjuster") tick, I'd call it normal, maybe switch to a 10W30 next time, that' what I've always ran.

In the early '90's it was common for the oil pan gasket to break down and plug the oil pump pickup too which causes a low oil pressure at idle (not always visible with the stock dummy gauge), without nearly pulling the engine or transmission it's not really possible... I've heard of people pulling the engine mount bolts then lifting the engine until stuff hits the transmission tunnel and "just" being able to get the oil pan out...

 

[white92ranger]

That's lifter (in this it's technically "lash adjuster") tick, I'd call it normal, maybe switch to a 10W30 next time, that' what I've always ran.

In the early '90's it was common for the oil pan gasket to break down and plug the oil pump pickup too which causes a low oil pressure at idle (not always visible with the stock dummy gauge), without nearly pulling the engine or transmission it's not really possible... I've heard of people pulling the engine mount bolts then lifting the engine until stuff hits the transmission tunnel and "just" being able to get the oil pan out...

its pretty embarrassingly loud at idle, sounds like marbles down the exhaust.

i did try a quart of lucas and it didn’t change anything. i also have a mechanical pressure gauge on the way to verify oil pressure. not looking forward to getting at the pressure switch, looks pretty buried.

if i have good oil pressure i may try and swap in new liters, seems pretty easy, i dont think the cam needs to come out?

 

[scotts90ranger]

the pressure sender isn't too buried, it's right behind the intake manifold and a little lower since it's in the block not the head, I don't remember the wrench sizes off the top of my head...

changing the lash adjusters isn't too hard, cam stays in, once you get the rockers off the lash adjusters just pull out.

 

[white92ranger]

well, i drained some oil and there is definitely brass flakes in it so im guessing its gotta be a bottom end bearing going out.

anyone throw in new bearings without machining the crank? assuming the crank isnt scored.

 

[Grainger2]

Just now found this, but yes, I have and with good success. If you see or feel roughness on the surface I take a penny and scratch the surface side to side. If I see copper on the surface, I at least emery cloth it until it stops. Run heavier oil or lucus, stp or similar. It won't handle 10K rpm, but it will go for 30K+ miles with tlc. If you want a hot rod, then have it turned. I have done many. I had an Isuzu pup, that every 4th oil change I would replace the bearing on the one rod. They come as a set of 4. To my knowledge it ran until the body rusted away.

 

[corerftech]

Not directly applicable-
I grew up with a friend who’s dad was a bad ass old diesel mechanic.


Caddy- crossing TX. 1970s
Rod bearing.
Done roadside.
Don’t remember more than “we got home” from the story.
Friend was proud of his old man and I gathered from others old man was as bad ass as they get.



Granted-
Bass diesel mech.
Tool chest in massive trunk to facilitate.
Old timer
1970s
Texas.
Caddy
A story over dinner.

None of the above apply to your situation but, be encouraged!

I have a leaky oil pan and would love to hear about your experience removing yours, if you go that route. Keep me in mind as you make repairs, what you face.
1990 2.3L

 

[XLTsplash]

I had the same noise in my 1997 Ranger with a 2.3L. The noise started around 125K just after I did a oil change. I could only hear the noise at idle when warmed up. I sounded lifter noise, So I installed 8 new Ford lash adjusters. It still made the noise. I then tried new rocker arms, Then a complete new head. All of this work and it still made the same noise. I replaced the oil pump and it still made the same noise. After that I pulled the engine and installed new pistons, rings and bearings. Nothing looked bad. The noise was gone after all of that work. I drove that Ranger another 10K miles then sold it. I missed not having a Ranger, So I bought a 1992 Ranger with 189K miles on the 2.3L. I just changed the oil in it today. I used 10W30 oil and a FL1A oil filter. I started the engine and let run while and it started making that noise. I don't understand it. The engine had a cheap aftermarket 400 size oil filter on it, I don't know what type of oil it had in it. It just looked dirty. The owner's manual calls for a FL1A oil filter and 5W30 or 10w30 oil. I used 10W30 because of it's high mileage. I found a receipt for a oil change when the truck only had 47K miles and they were using 10W30 oil. I don't want to do all the work I did to my 97 again. When my 97 first started making the noise, I tried different brands and weights of oil. Because it started just after a oil change. I don't know what to do. I was think and maybe trying a FL400 oil filter ? The oil that came out of the 92 looked dark. I didn't see any metal in it.

 

[XLTsplash]

I found this SSM from Ford on newer engines that seem to have the same problem. They don't say what the cause is and why it starts after a oil change. They just call it normal. SSM 49761: 2011-2021 Mustang/F-150 - 5.0L - Tick Tap And/Or Typewriter Noise At Idle Some 2011-2021 Mustang and F-150 vehicles equipped with a 5.0L engine may exhibit a ticking noise at idle after an engine oil change. It is often referred to as typewriter noise because of its similarity to the sound of a mechanical typewriter. The noise in question may be heard on some engines when engine temperatures reach 150ŒF (65ŒC) or higher and engine speed is at idle up to approximately 1700 RPMs. It can typically be heard at the front wheel well and is often isolated to the transmission bell housing or oil pan area. The typewriter noise is not detrimental to the engine function or durability and has no short or long term effects on the engine. This an operating characteristic of the 5.0L engine and no repairs should be attempted. Vehicles: 2011-2014 F-150 (2004-2014), Mark LT (F6) 2015-2020 F-150 (P552) (FC) 2021 F-150 (P702) (FD) 2011-2014 Mustang (S197) (ZF) 2015-2021 Mustang (S550) (ZG)

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If you got brass in the oil youre gonna need a crank