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91 Ranger 4.0 A4LD to M5OD R-1 swap...


Ohh you replaced the whole pedal assembly bracket. On my explorer, and I believe the rangers are the same way, The brackets are the same between auto and manual so I pulled the e-clip from the brake pedal, slid it out and slid the brake/clutch pedal into the original bracket if you get what I'm saying. Theres no need to replace the whole bracket from the firewall just the pedals thmselves.
yes i replaced the entire bracket and the reason why is the manual bracket is a lot stronger than the auto bracket (atleast on '93+ Rangers it is).....
 
yes i replaced the entire bracket and the reason why is the manual bracket is a lot stronger than the auto bracket (atleast on '93+ Rangers it is).....

For mine i unbolted the parking brake moved it out of the way and unplugged the dash harness that goes threw the firewall and moved it out of the way. Lubed the shaft the cluthc pedal is on and slipped right in.

To replace the bushings on the brake pedal and clutch pedals in the shop flate rate pays 0.8 hours. Just in case anyone wanted to know how long it should take them.
 
Alright...here's where I'm at with this.....

I am going to pick up the Explorer this weekend with a rented tow dolly from U-Haul....which BTW isn't a bad way to blow a couple hundred bucks...fawkin gas prices and damn u-haul....oh well...

So far....here's a list of parts I've come up with that I got off of other people's posts and other websites, etc. Most of them I already have since the explorer is completer and running. There are a couple others that I came up with that I'll possibly need:

-M50D-R1 transmission (already have it...came with Explorer)
-Clutch parts, slave cylinder and flywheel (already have all of this...came with Explorer, and the Clutch is actually a Centerforce Dual Firction that the guy installed a while back. I may have the flywheel resurfaced just to be safe, but the clutch and slave are still new as of like 10,000 miles ago...so I'll prolly run those parts)
-pedal assembly (already have this...came with Explorer)
-clutch master cylinder, reservoir & hydraulic line (already have this...came with Explorer)
-transmission starter (already have this...came with explorer; I may consider putting a new one on just to be safe though)
-Clutch Pedal Position Switch (pretty sure I already have this)
-Ford Ranger 4.0 4wd manual PCM (I have the one that came with the Explorer, which apparently may or may not work with my truck....we'll see on this)
-manual transmission floor pan cover (already have...came with explorer)
-new flywheel bolts (still need to purchase these)

Can you guys think of anything else that I havn't mentioned that I need?

Eventually I'd like to put a Manual T Case into the truck and when I do, I plan on doubling it. But that will be a little while down the road.

I'll post up on how the excursion to pick up the Explorer goes.....

Zach
 
that looks good on your list there, the pcm i threw in my ranger was out of a 93 exploder, i believe the numbers on the computer should be f707
 
It is highly recommended to install a NEW slave cylinder. The weakest link on the RBV's manual transmission is the slave cylinder.

You already have the CPP PLUG. The plug has a jumper in it from the factory; remove the jumper and plug it into the CPP on the clutch pedal rod. The CPP is on the clutch pedal rod and should be in the Explorer.
 
Alright, well I ended up sayin fawk you to U-Haul and borrowed my bosses 16' tandem axle car hauler and drug the bitch back this weekend. Other than a minor tire leak, it worked out beautifully.....till I got home that is....

So I get home and am unloadin the prick and I get it off the trailer, drive it about 50' and am turning it around to park it....when the fawkin tire falls off! I'm not talkin bout just the tire tho....I mean the tire, hub, brake rotor and caliper, the grenaded bearings and seals....the bearings were shot and everything riding on the spindle took off.....scared the shit outta me cuz' the guy was DD'n this thing before I got it and he just parked it one day and then I came along, loaded it up and drug er' home....coulda been on the road or somethin....that woulda sucked!

So I am tryin to figure out how to get this thing up off the ground...(mind you it's knuckle on the pass. side is now buried)...and keep it off the ground and move it where it needs to go. So I get some buddies over and one of them's dad owns an excavating company. So we get the backhoe and lift the whole front of the sploder up and drag it over, then set it back down on jackstands, which are on 4x6s on their flat on top of 12" cement blocks used for a foundation on a house.....prolly not the safest setup, but it's actually extremely stable. So next time I go home, I'll be able to get started with workin on this prick. It's a bitch havin yur junk and tools 300 miles away from where yur livin and workin.....but I'll be movin back around September time so then I'll be able to get crankin on this.....

I was checkin out the cover for the floor that came in the sploder for the manual trans. and it looks like it already has a built in slot with the rubber for a manual t-case shifter....which is awesome cuz' this means that I won't have to booty fab a hole in the floor for one.

Also....the shifter on the trans. is EXTREMELY difficult to get into 1st, 2nd and Reverse gears while the truck is started and gettin goin....4th and 5th suck too but arnt as bad as the rest. You pretty much have to start the truck in 1st gear or Reverse cuz' it's that hard to shift from N to them. And if you are started and try to shift to 1st or Reverse, it'll grind if you don't pull or push it hard enough into gear....but it will go, with a lot of force....it'll bang in there....and this is me tryin to shift it....5'11, 205 lbs, pound nails, frame houses, and fight fires on pretty much a daily basis....not braggin, I'm just sayin that if a guy in my physical shape is havin trouble with this, there is definitley an issue....

I think it might be the synchros makin it hard to shift.....the slave cylinder is bad so that could be part of the problem, but would synchros cause the above problem with gettin it in gear? Or could it be a bad clutch? The guy told me the clutch had about 10,000 miles on it so I hope not...plus, its a Centerforce dual friction clutch, which supposedly is a lil stronger than the stock one, just a lil harder to depress....

Also, with the clutch pressed in while in 1st gear, the truck slowly creeps forward....think this could be from the bad slave?

Just lookin for some pointers here.....I plan on having a new slave cylinder put in it along with a new flywheel as well. What are you guys' opinions on the synchros?

Also, anyone know about the Computer for this thing if it will or won't work in the 91 Ranger I have? The sploder is a 94' Sport.
 
Explorers have different wiring than a Ranger......so what is on 1 pin in the Explorer PCM plug might be on another pin in the Ranger plug

Wrong.

The wiring that's different on an explorer is all related to stuff that has NO connection to the engine management.

the explorer computer is a plug it in and run it situation

I started doing some "Creative editing" above to remove this thought root&Vine but decided it was too much of a PITA.

As for swapping pedals, it's often easier to swap-out the pedals as an assembly, but some pedal support brackets are different
and you MAY wind up swapping the new pedals into the original support bracket.

But in that case it's a FAR easier job on the bench than laying on your back feeling like you are trapped in a crushed truck.

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Alright......so this weekend I'm making the 250 mile trek back to my parents housefor the weekend and am planning on pulling the trans from the explorer. I am just double checking here to make sure I get everything and hopefully can get a couple of my last minute questions answered. Here is everything I am aware of that I need to pull out. BTW, I'm going to be removing the engine, transmission, and tcase from this truck, so I will probably be just pulling the engine and transmission at the same time. I figure I'll take the BW 1354E Tcase for internal parts if nothing else....I think I'll prollyt just pull the front clip via torches and a sawzall since she's alreayd crumpled up pretty good.....

Anyways, here's my list of everyhting I could think of that I need to get off of this thing before I send the sploder to the scrap yard; please add or correct me on anything that is wrong or that I forgot....

-Transmission, clutch, flywheel, starter, slave cylinder setup...(I'll be pulling the engine and trans. connected if at all possible, so, the clutch assembly will be coming right out with the engine...
-shifter
-shifter boot
-floor plate
-pedal assembly
-clutch fluid resevoir and lines from firewall
-Explorers ECM-(computer).....(this might sound stupid, but I've never had to touch this on any Ranger I've had....anyone know where this is located on the explorers and Rangers? If ity helps, my Rangers a 91 and the sploder is a 94...come to think of it, I don't even know what I'm looking for, so if anyone has a pic or anything, that'd help too..is it up in the dash somewhere??)
-driveshaft in rear to make spare for Ranger in future
-steering wheel column to cover up where automatics shifter used to be for Ranger
-clutch pedal position switch....(again, no idea what this looks like or where it's located.....any help with this would be appreciated....isn't it up under the dash by the drivers pedals or something?)

This is about all I can think of. Please post up anything else ya can think of. I'd hate to pull all this, get the P.O.S. loaded onto a trailer and off to the scrap yard, only to find out I need something, or some electrical connector or whatever that's really rare that I overlooked that I should have pulled off the exploder.......

As always, please and thanks for the help and advice, etc.

Zach
 
Just got cleaned up and everything picked up from pulling all the manual shit from the Explorer.

Here's what I ended up pulling out of that truck.....
-pedal bracket
-pedals
-clutch master cylinder
-clutch fluid resevoir
-hard clutch fluid line from master cylinder to slave.....(the one that runs from the master clutch cylinder, under the brake booster, to the transmission)
-shifter 7 shifter knob
-shifter boot
-The PCM from the explorer....(at least I hope I pulled the right thing....it was mounted on the passenger side floor kickpanel)
-the 4.0 engine, transmission, and transfer case
-rear driveshaft from explorer
-battery from explorer
-the cats from the explorer

I didn't pull the floor plate up for the manual cuz I am just going to use the one I have in my Ranger that I made for the auto. trans. a while back. I just laid it up against the bottom of the manual one and traced where the shifter hole is and the bolt holes to hold the boot down and am going to go that route. Different strokes for different folks. The manual floorplates bolts holding it down were also stripped out and would just be a royal PITA to pull out n make work.....if I find out in a while that the template I drew on the plate I already have won't work, I'll just buy one I need from someone doing a truck partout or somethin. I was in a huge hurry and didn't wana **** around with stripped bolts.

I need to let you all know The way that I pulled all of this off prolly wasn't the normal way one should. My way invovled a lot of use of the sawzall and torches. I had a buddy witha backhoe come over and use that as an engine hoist/jack/vehicle picker upper to set the vehicle on the trailer type tool.....you get the picture......the sploders gonna be parted out as is....so this seemed like the quickest way......At the end, when we had the sploder sittin there engine and trasmissionless, we were tryin to figure out how to get it on the trailer. Well we took the bucket on the backhoe and smashed the roof in, stuck it through the roof and used the spikes on the edge of the bucket to pick her up and set it on the trailer.......Might not be everyone's favorite way, but I did get it all done in about 2 hours. I literally tore the explorer apart, torching crossmembers, fenders, the front clip, cutting any and every electrical wire that came between me and getting the engine n trans. out....it wasn't clean, but it's out. Again.....different strokes for different folks. The sploder is loaded on a trailer now ready to go to the scrap yard tommorrow. Pulled the cats off and am going to turn them in seperate for some more cash. Pulled the ones off the Rainjuh too cuz' their rusted out n need replacin or elimination to begin with.....

BTW.....for the record, she blows flames out the exhaust now and just sounds ANGRY!

Alright, so I got a couple questions....as usual....

-What electric wire on my auto. Rainjuh plugs into the top of the new M5ODR-1 to make it work in the 91 Ranger? I saw some wires attatched to it and figured I should ask. The electrical plugs that are on the manual transmission....do those have a matching plug on the harness?

-Does anyone know if the transmission crossmember that's currently holding up the auto. trans. will work with the manual I'm putting in the truck?

-Where is the Clutch Pedal Position sensor located? Is there a plug for this in the wiring harness up under the dash on the automatic trans. truck or do I have to creatively splice?

I'm sure I'll have some more soon but I'm too tired to keep typing......I'll have pics up soon when I get some back....
 
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-What electric wire on my auto. Rainjuh plugs into the top of the new M5ODR-1 to make it work in the 91 Ranger? I saw some wires attatched to it and figured I should ask. The electrical plugs that are on the manual transmission....do those have a matching plug on the harness?
I will look at Maurice's (mjones) truck tonight; if I remember. I know it would be a ton easier if you could get the manual transmission harness and swap it in place of your auto harness; then it would plug up with no splices. Since you wheel (obvious by your screen name), it will be hard to completely water proof the splices.


-Does anyone know if the transmission crossmember that's currently holding up the auto. trans. will work with the manual I'm putting in the truck?
Yes, your automatic transmission crossmember will work. I know on Maurice's (mjones) Bronco II swap, we had to clearance the transmission mount holes in the crossmember. It worked fine.


-Where is the Clutch Pedal Position sensor located? Is there a plug for this in the wiring harness up under the dash on the automatic trans. truck or do I have to creatively splice?
The plug is already in the wiring harness in your truck. There is a plug with a jumper plugged into it. Once you remove the jumper plug, you can plug that into the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) switch. The switch is located on the clutch pedal rod.


I'm sure I'll have some more soon but I'm too tired to keep typing......I'll have pics up soon when I get some back....[/QUOTE]
 
Actually, I pulled the engine and transmission together and a shitton of wires and vaccuum hoses came with it. I remember seeing a wiring harness that had plugs coming out of it along the trans. after I pulled it out, so (hopefully), it's still there and not cut up. A lot of stuff got caught on the firewall, etc when it was coming out and got ripped, torn off. I am sure I can find another wiring harness if need be online or at a dealer or something, but it sure would be nice if it was there already.

Got thinking, and when i go through with putting this in the truck, I am probably just going to build a custom Xmember for the trans. and will try and tuck it up a little bit above the lower framerails if possible for a flatbelly.

I checked out my clutch pedal rod and sure enough, theres the receptacle for the plug in the harness, so that's good to know.....

I will probably tear the trans. all apart before I put it in, so I can make sure nothing is stripped out, etc....and so I can replace anything that's worn out or broken, etc.

Also, I was wondering if anyone elses brackets for their pedals ended up being freaking huge? The one I pulled out of the 94 explorer sport supported the steering column and everything and was one solid piece that the pedals also mounted to...the thing is beefy as fawk and doesn't look like even a grenade could blow it up.....I just didn't expect you to have to do so much to remove it.....kind of scares me thinking about what I'll have to do now to replace it in the future when I put it back in the Ranger. The one from my explorer looks absolutley nothing like the one Maurice showed in his thread.
 
I am sure I can find another wiring harness if need be online or at a dealer or something, but it sure would be nice if it was there already.
Dealer wont have any wiring harness for your '91 anymore. We tried to get one for Maurice's '97 and they are discontinued. Besides, the parts manager (friend of Maurice's) said that the transmission wiring harness was $500 when he could get it.


Got thinking, and when i go through with putting this in the truck, I am probably just going to build a custom Xmember for the trans. and will try and tuck it up a little bit above the lower framerails if possible for a flatbelly.
Just make sure you don't raise the transmission any. If you do, it will put an extra starin on the engine motor mounts and could cause them to tear.


I checked out my clutch pedal rod and sure enough, theres the receptacle for the plug in the harness, so that's good to know.....
Glad you found it!


Also, I was wondering if anyone elses brackets for their pedals ended up being freaking huge? The one I pulled out of the 94 explorer sport supported the steering column and everything and was one solid piece that the pedals also mounted to...the thing is beefy as fawk and doesn't look like even a grenade could blow it up.....I just didn't expect you to have to do so much to remove it.....kind of scares me thinking about what I'll have to do now to replace it in the future when I put it back in the Ranger. The one from my explorer looks absolutley nothing like the one Maurice showed in his thread.
There are 3 different style pedal assemblies (I know there are atleast 2 because Maurice's Ranger and Bronco II had different assemblies). The first picture below is from his '97 Ranger (which only bolted to the fire wall) and the second is from his '86 Bronco II (which wraped up around the steering column and then the column bolted to it).

100_3003.jpg

100_3926.jpg
 
Alright....gotta be honest, this swap is gonna be on hold now for a good long while. I am workin 3 jobs right now, (might have a 4th here soon enough), tryin to save as much cabbage as I can to go back to school this fall for my paramedic license. I know, it's kind of a bummer, but I should be back workin on it around May of next year or so........I gotta force myself to not log on here and spend all my freee time checkin out ppls cool shit and just buckle down n do the medic.....I'll try and get some more pics or somethin up, but progress is at a standstill until May or June of 09..... :-(
 

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