89 ranger SAS build

[kroussinoffroad]

i am runnin the BroncoGY 6" superflex springs (same as bronco?) but i have cut 1 loop out to get the truck to ride somewhat level. and i am guessin my ride is due to my shocks that fit a wide aray of vehicles some 1/2 ton most 3/4 ton. they are rancho 7000's

My buddy just picked up a B2 and we took it out for cruise in the woods and i miss how the TTB rode. soaked up every bump amazingly.

 

[dangerranger83]

I will not miss my TTB, stiff as hell and very little flex and movement from it.

 

[escort_gts]

Got the springs back together, I took the old ranger springs apart and used the lower two leafs plus the overload. Hope it wont make it to stiff but I had to fix it and this way was cheap. The ranger leafs are the ones not painted black.

 

[dangerranger83]

Going to do the samething to the other side?

Glad to see you were able to fix it.

 

[escort_gts]

Yeah I did the same to the other side. They are now identical and is sitting back on all fours again.

 

[bobbywalter]

i like to add the b2 springs as they are thinner and make tuning ride a snap, just hard to find them that arent beat to death in the junkyard..





couple things, you may find the 250 e or f pitman arm will set your angles better and get rid of some of the bump steer. possibly just a stock ranger arm. you will have to look at several trucks likely, but they do have some variance to them. i say this because its easier then redoing the trac bar and is a quick thing to try that should be less then a couple hrs and 10 bux or so getting it off at the yard and installing it at home. get the one between what you have and stock....at least from the pics i have seen, it looks like thats the way to go...in person it might tell a different story.


what i dont have to see to make a judgement on is the steering stabilizer. i have a blowed out one...and it was blown out when i got it with the axle or i would have shitcanned it. i prefer not to have one so i know when a problem is developing. i run up to 44 inch tires....and they are not round at first and never really get round just more tolerable but they dont rip the steering wheel or wobble it either, though they do bounce the truck around and wobble the whole truck eventually i will have hydro assist or full hydro and the only downside of those systems is the loss of sensitivity to my bearings from the steering wheel.

this need for a stabilizer is indicative to me you may want to make some caster adjustments if in fact it makes a real difference in the steering.


the krouse guy may want to rework his caster and arm operating angles to improve the harsh ride as well.

 

[bobbywalter]

oh.....the truss is a definate want to do.


BUT. those tires are "LIGHT 35's" even with an ext cab....if that thing is trussed i would not be concerned with it.

 

[escort_gts]

I'm not to worried about the d30 flexing. I plan on going to 33's sometime next year. I got a damn good deal on the 35's from my work.

Got the truck drivable again. Here is what I did to stop the two piece driveshaft from vibrating...

I made a new crossmember that the bearing mounts to. This way I was able to make it as straight as possible, no more vibrations

I need to invest in a digital camera, cell phones take crappy pics.

 

[dangerranger83]

You should get a one piece driveshaft so you can elimnate that two piece shaft, tech. library has more info. on that.

 

[escort_gts]

yeah one piece would be nice, but this only cost me $10 in steel. and doesn't vibrate now.

 

[bobbywalter]

I'm not to worried about the d30 flexing. I plan on going to 33's sometime next year. I got a damn good deal on the 35's from my work.

Got the truck drivable again. Here is what I did to stop the two piece driveshaft from vibrating...

I made a new crossmember that the bearing mounts to. This way I was able to make it as straight as possible, no more vibrations

I need to invest in a digital camera, cell phones take crappy pics.

excellent idea, though i think it will be short lived...you just put it in a bind so it cant flop as much.


i hated my 2 piece shaft cause of the wobs, but the one piece is more vulnerable wheelin....so build accordingly. making a longer intermediate and shorter rear section is actually ideal

but costly.

 

[escort_gts]

my whole build is low budget, so this driveshaft setup will work for me.

 

[dangerranger83]

I see a new avatar picture. Just seeing how she's holding up, how she's driving, etc... after your rear springs mods. and drive shaft mod.

Oh ya and bumping up so people can see another D30 swap (and also so I don't have to dig 3 pages in to look at stuff )

 

[escort_gts]

I got bored with the picture, plus it was old and the mud on it looked cooler anyways.

I am having some issues with the steering. The pitman arm tierod that I stole off the ranger is bad and has tons of play in it. It wasn't that bad when I put it in. Must have to much stress with the bigger tires.

My leafs springs suck, sits 1.5" lower in the back now, but it works until I get a new set or just a new set of single repair leafs. Found a set of single replacement from a spring shop on ebay for $50/set shipped. I should check the JY but I just don't have time, working to much OT. 12 hour days for 16 days straight.

Driveshafts work great after all the mods and all, but I just noticed that the rubber insulator on the carrier bearing is worn and allows the shaft to move around too much.

I will be updating my thread as soon as I get some pictures off the phone.

 

[dangerranger83]

I would do the one piece shaft for safety. I'm probably going to make the same steering linkage mod. you did, but sleeve the weld for safety.

Oh, lesson learned.....when welding on high, cover your skin close to the welding area. I now have a bad "sunburn" on my left arm. And happened in a 20 minute time peroid.