89 BII timing off or?

[IMenriched]

curious how the compression test came out?

 

[jballen]

After retiming it with the spout out, then attempting to start it after replaceing the spout I didn't notice any white smoke coming back out the end of the throttle body. No start yet.

I'm waiting for the compression tester from the bro-in law..

And this weekend I'll be checking out the distributor...

Report back Monday!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you pull the distributor check the gear establish top dead center on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder install the distributor where #1 plug wire is lined up with rotor and cap. then assure you have spark and fuel pressure. dump some fuel down the throttle body or spray starting while your cranking

 

[jballen]

I did establish DTC on the #1 cylinder. It was off 180 degrees. I moved the plug wires to compensate for this. I checked for spark and replaced the TFI as it had tested bad. Tonight I'm going to dump some gas down the throttle body or spray some either while it's cranking.

I'm also going to check the plug wires and see if they are all good..

Thanks, I've got a lot to do this weekend on the old BII. Report back Monday...

 

[piotrsko]

DID you get it fixed?? Inquiring minds want to know

 

[jballen]

I rechecked top dead center on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder Checked spark and fuel pressure before dumping some fuel down the throttle body & spraying starting fluid while cranking and Nothing at all. Without the added fuel I could always get popping while cranking. Not this time. I'm guessing I flooded it good!

So Sunday afternoon the Bro-in-law loaned me his compression gauge and that is on the list for this evening..

He is guessing that a valve is hanging open & messing up the mixture going in to all the cylinders. Stay tuned for more of the engine that won't start...

 

[jballen]

Tonight I ran a compression test on the BII. #1, 4 & 5 were zero. Next I tested the gauge with compressed air and it worked. So I reran the #1 cylinder & 0.

I then removed all the spark plugs, the valve cover over the #1 cylinder & set the engine to TDC. I then started to slowly turn the engine over by hand. The valves opened & closed late..

I take this to mean the cam is not lined up where it should be? And I get to tear open the front of the engine, remove the chain and line things up???

 

[piotrsko]

yes unfortunately I believe that it means you get to wrench on it some more.

 

[jballen]

I spent the evening checking the valves. All were too tight. So I readjusted them, no start.

I think I'm going to see if there is a wrench to tighten down the compression gauge as I don't think it sealed tight enough to measure the compression.

The Bro-in-law says to open the front end and remove the timing chain as he thinks the cam is off. Not sure if that's it.

Something tells me to remove the engine & put it on a stand so it can be tore down. Who knows what the guy that owned it before me did or didn't do inside that thing if it's this messed up.

Any other ideas???

 

[piotrsko]

shouldn't need to yank the engine to pull the cam cover, just the water pump and radiator. might be way easier to yank engine however.

don't really need to seal compression gauge,,,I was merely looking for bent or open valves which would give you really low compression and backfires. BTW it will hiss at you if it isn't screwed on tight enough.

if you have a regulated compressor, pump it up to about 40 psi and adapt the plug hose on the compression tester to the air hose. ( turn compressor off) both fittings should be 1/4 NPT. find TDC on say #1, then inject air. depends where you hear noise is your problem. intake means bent intake valve, crankcase means bad rings, exhaust means bad exhaust valve.

I can't think of a fast way to check cam timing and I feel that if the engine is fairly oily/dirty the Prev owner didn't goof up too much.

and there is supposed to be ( I think) 1 1/2 turns loose on the adjusting screws for the rocker arm.

 

[jballen]

When I looked at the valve rockers they wrere down tight aginst the pushrods. About a 1/2 a turn tighter was how they were set.

I found this on the form:
"Valve Adjustment Procedure For 1986 Ford 177 CID (2.9L) V6 Engine

AERA members should be aware that the 1986 Ford Manual for the Ranger and Bronco II incorrectly states the number of turns on the rocker arm adjusting screw to set the valve lash. The manual states that the adjusting screw should be rotated 4.5 turns. Ford Motor Company advises that the correct procedure is to rotate the adjusting screw 1.5 turns. Using the incorrect specification could result in valve damage.

To adjust the hydraulic lifters on this engine, position the cam so the tappet being adjusted is in the base circle area. Loosen the adjusting screw until a distinct lash between the rocker arm tip and the valve tip is evident. Carefully turn the adjustment screw until the rocker tip just touches the valve tip. Turn the
adjusting screw in an additional 1.5 turns."

So I am to loosen or tighten them 1.5 turns???

Looks like I follow this and re-adjust them as I didn't know how to set them...

 

[piotrsko]

gawd I'm getting old and apparently very stoopid. YUP 1 1/2 TIGHT is how you set them. Knew it was 1 1/2 something... Now if I can just remember why it is I'm in the bathroom

 

[jballen]

Just finished adjusting the valves to 1 1/2 turns tight. They were at 1/4 turn tight. I turned over the engine and it popped like it was only firing on 2 cylinders. 2 big pops then a few small pops. After that a few small pops as I continued to cranked it.

With the valves adjusted I can run a compression test, again and see if things changed..

The Bro-in-law swears it's the cam. I'm not sure anymore...

 

[IMenriched]

Just finished adjusting the valves to 1 1/2 turns tight. They were at 1/4 turn tight. I turned over the engine and it popped like it was only firing on 2 cylinders. 2 big pops then a few small pops. After that a few small pops as I continued to cranked it.

With the valves adjusted I can run a compression test, again and see if things changed..

The Bro-in-law swears it's the cam. I'm not sure anymore...

by all means...re run the compression check. if you get similar results...your prolly looking at some serious wrenching....and if you decide to tear into this engine, getting it on engine stand is a better route. or even if you get another engine...just nicer to deal with on a stand.

It might...and I mean might be, just be carbon build up not letting valves seat correctly and or rings....or could be as nasty as a hole in the piston or broken piston rod as to why it isn't building compression.

 

[jballen]

Ok, here's the poop. Sunday I decided that the problem was going to take too long to solve, so tonight I started to get the engine for ready to be removed. I slid under the BII to drain the oil and when I loosened the oil plug the 1st liquid to come out was antifreeze. I filled 2 oil change pans with this mixture. Looks like the heads are cracked or something like that. When it is out it can go on the stand to be worked over.

I will pull it this week and put in a 2.9 from my other BII that is rusted away yet runs well. That is after replacing the valve cover gaskets..

One question; there is an oil level monitor on the side of the oil pan. Does the connector just pull off or? Any other little things to watch for when pulling this engine???