89 2.3 Running rough and dying at idlehttp://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/s

[1989rangerob]

it turns out that this one is actually screwed into the front of the oil pan. I've got it loose but not quite of yet.

 

[1989rangerob]

turns out the tolerances between the bracket that's attached to the block and the flange on the cam sprocket are so tight that it won't let me pull the bracket.

 

[Mark_88]

Ah, there must be something else going on there...does the Haynes specifically say to remove the HB and the pulley?

They usually give step by step instructions on how to change the timing belt...I found my Haynes but it is out in the back yard...I will see what it says about changing timing belt.

 

[1989rangerob]

so I was looking around my Haynes manual, and I couldn't find anything. well it says in there is to remove the timing belt after you release the tensioner. unfortunately there's that guide and then there's the flange around the sprocket they will not let you put a timing belt in there. I cut the old timing belt off cause I just got plain sick of moving around.

 

[Mark_88]

Ah, just found this on Google...looks like you will need to pull the pulley...and the area behind is actually a crankshaft seal so I wouldn't try to pry that one off...unless you want to replace the seal...

https://www.google.ca/search?q=1989...-3-specific-timing-belt-question.html;884;658

 

[1989rangerob]

I finally got the harmonic balancer off. I really hope all this shit goes back together correctly. and I don't have any leaks. I'm pretty sure the cam and crank gears moved independently when I was working on this thing. do you have any advice?

 

[Mark_88]

The gears without the timing belt can or will move independently and when trying to install the belt there is a good chance one or the other will move...especially if you snap the belt with the tension pulley...that's what I was talking about in the PM about letting it out slowly so it doesn't jar the belt and cause the gears to move.

I will say that you can actually buy an adjustable timing gear that allows the cam to be set for higher or lower torque ranges...but the increments are about half of what you normally get on a stock cam gear meaning your timing could be out a tooth or two and run rougher...not as much a problem with a carb/distributor setup but could mean really rough running (like you were having before all this) and other problems with fuel not being burned properly due to the cam being too far out of timing.

All in all, once you have the belt back on and now that you know basically how to install it you can always adjust it even with the HB and pulley back on...you just adjust the valve timing after setting the crank and try it again.

 

[1989rangerob]

I just got off the phone with my mechanic buddy. apparently that aluminum plate that I loosened holds the oil pickup tube in it. it also has a seal... which means I broke the seal. he told me to go buy some hylomar and squeeze it behind the plate and where the screws go into to the bottom of it. hopefully I didn't damage the crank seal when I was trying to wiggle it off.

 

[Mark_88]

Hopefully...

 

[1989rangerob]

and I couldn't find hylomar anywhere today. Fooey

 

[Mark_88]

Yeah, been there and searched everywhere for a few things...finally had to settle for something similar...

If it makes you feel better, my Ranger has been laid up for three weeks now...thought I blew the head gasket but it turned out to be a broken wall either in the head or the block...pulled the head and the gasket was not noticeably damaged...I was going to try to sell the head to recover some of my costs in swapping things over...

 

[1989rangerob]

man that sucks. and it doesn't make me happy, I'd rather we both have running trucks.

 

[Mark_88]

Yeah, thanks! Mine should be ready in a few days...if all goes well with swapping in the dash and wiring...need to take care of some rust issues first though...and find some good body mount bolts to secure the cab.

 

[tomw]

In my post back when, I said "MAF". I meant to say MAP, manifold absolute pressure. It senses manifold vacuum to know if the engine is working hard, wide open throttle == no vacuum, or idling lazily, closed throttle == high vacuum. It send a signal to the computer, and if messed will run the computer crazy changing the injector timing.
You need to remove the HB or be able to snake the belt between it and the aluminum mini-front cover. The oil pickup is attached to the pump, which is right below where the distributor was mounted on previous models. It is not on the small cover.
Timing is set with the keyway in the crankshaft at 12:00, and the triangle on the cam sprocket at the pointer at about the 4:00 o'clock position. Take all the slack out on the two spans between the crank-aux-cam pulleys in that order. Leave all the slack on the span from cam-crank. The tensioner will take it up. After install, turn the crank at least two turns, and check that the parts are still aligned after all slack, etc has been taken up.
tom

 

[Mark_88]

That's right Tom...the oil pump and pickup is off the auxiliary shaft and should not be affected at all by the oil pan cover...I was thinking 94 and later but forgot this was an 89 we're dealing with...

Earlier models (like my 88) actually have a plastic shield behind the crank...and why it's easier to slip the belt around the pulley...there is a bit of give in the shield that is probably not there on the aluminum...but the belts are flexible...stiff, but still flexible.