88 Ranger Rebuild

[SolidSnake84]

Did you ever end up getting a title for it??

 

[NTkiller7000]

I too wished I could have gotten Ranger parts, I need a few hundred small parts to get mine running and driving again.

I know, right. Maybe we could have a contest to see whose truck needs more bits to get it on the road again!

Did you ever end up getting a title for it??

Yep, got the title before I dragged it out of the woods, actually.

Ok, I think what I'm going to do first is get it to the point where it can move itself. Not driving, but capable of self locomotion. All I need to to to achieve this is to rebuild the fuel system. I have a new fuel tank, fuel sending unit, and a low pressure fuel pump, so I shouldn't need much to finish fixing the fuel system. Mainly this will require lots of little pieces I will need to get. LATEr

 

[Robert_1967]

here is what I need for mine.

break lines (all of them)
front calibers.
front break pads.
back break cylinders.
back break hubs.

low pressure fuel pump and sending unit for gas tank.
fuel lines.

coil.
steering column (with windshield wiper switch and ignition switch).
dashboard.
carpet.
windshield.
seat rails.

shorten drive shaft.
ac compressor.
as compressor lines.
compact ac condenser.
battery cables.
radio, speakers.
door panels.

and a few other small items that I can't remember right now.



Robert



posted with a Webster Dictionary, and a coffee can.

 

[NTkiller7000]

HI, sorry for the late posting, but repairing my truck has been delayed by several problems that have happened within the household. One of those being that my mom's amigo broke the timing belt, thus bending all the valves! So we had to fix that thing first. So my update is I've started buying parts, and I've had a small change in plans. I've got to replace several seals on the engine, right? And I've also got to pull the tranny to put in a clutch. My brother said I might as well go ahead and pull the engine and rebuild it. So I bought an engine re-ring kit, a clutch kit that comes with a slave cylinder, and a whole buntch of little pieces for the engine. BTW Robert I didnt think you were serious about a contest, but I need most of the stuff on your list, plus a buntch of suspension parts, some patch panels, and a lot of little items, such as interior pieces, ect.

 

[Robert_1967]

lol, I also forgot

Shocks front and rear
shock mounts for rear axle and frame.


Only "patch" panels I need are ones for filling in the tail lights, I'm going with a set of Rambler tail lights that I found for 10.00.

if your engine has good compression, I wouldn't tear it all the way down, I would just put a gasket kit in it to seal it up good, but that's up to you, I would also go ahead and change the oil pump.



Robert



posted using a mustang II front end kit, and castle nuts.

 

[NTkiller7000]

lol, I also forgot

Shocks front and rear
shock mounts for rear axle and frame.


Only "patch" panels I need are ones for filling in the tail lights, I'm going with a set of Rambler tail lights that I found for 10.00.

if your engine has good compression, I wouldn't tear it all the way down, I would just put a gasket kit in it to seal it up good, but that's up to you, I would also go ahead and change the oil pump.



Robert



posted using a mustang II front end kit, and castle nuts.

The patch panels are for where the truck rolled into a tree. And about the rebuild, I'm going to be in the general location, so I might as well, since the difference between the gasket set and a re-ring kit is only $30. And I got a Melling oil pump

 

[NTkiller7000]

Hello, time for another progress report! This past saturday, My brother and I took everything loose from the engine, to get it ready to come out. The next day, we pulled the engine and transmission out and put them in the barn. Monday, we neatened up the shop so we could begin engine dissassembly, and today we started taking the engine apart. We took the transmission loose and set it aside, and unmounted the engine mount brackets and accessory brackets. Then we removed the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. The flywheel was in pretty good shape for being in service for this long. Next, we pulled the timing set off, and set it aside. Then off came the valve cover. There were some head bolts that were really hard to get out, which was worrying at the time. Then the head came off. The head was in fairly decent shape for it's age, as well. We then turned the motor over on to a piece of plywood and took off the oilpan. Then the oil pump came off. Then we had to pull the gear off the front of the crank, but we don't have the proper puller, so we left it on there. We pulled the crank out of the motor with the front seal plate still attached. Then we flipped the motor on it's rear to knock the pistons out. All was going smoothly up to this point. When we got to piston #3, the top compression ring fell off as soon as it was clear of the bore, because it was broke in half. The piston was chewed up pretty bad, and so was the cylinder bore. I knew then I had to have the block bored. The only problem with that is the machine shops want a LOT of money to bore it out to get the block back to service condition. Around $150 for the bore, $60 for the vat, plus who knows how much for new bearings to go back into the block for the countershaft. And on top of that I've got to return the rebuild kit because it's for a standard bore engine. The situation is pretty bad. It could be worse, though, so I'm not going to complain. Now for Pics!

P.S. I must appologise in advance for the craptacular pictures. When the only camera you have is one in a phone, there isn't much one can do.

Engine bay before we started working

Just a slight bit of rust damage on the thermostat housing

Front of motor without accessories. Note leaking water pump.

Front end in the air so we can get under it.

Driver's side of engine before pull.

Passenger's side of engine before pull.

Vacant lot for sale

Engine and tranny in full view.

Engine free of tranny.

Little bit of wildlife in the bellhousing.

Another pic of the therm. housing

You probably can't see the date code, but I think this is the timing belt that came with the motor from the factory. It says Dayco and it has a Ford symbol on it.

Front of the block.

Head.

Crank.

Mangled piston.

Broke ring.

 

[Robert_1967]

If there is a local Pull-A-Parts, you should be able to pick up another engine for around 200.00 or less, might be cheaper then having your block machined.




Robert



posted with a one eye cat and a green leaf.

 

[NTkiller7000]

Well, the damage to the block wasn't that severe, just needs to be bored to take the lip the broken ring left off. i also would prefer to keep this motor since it is the original one. And besides, I did my homework and the difference between fixing this block and getting another block from pull-a-part is only $40. And we might spend that much in gas going up there, so why bother?