88 Ranger 2.9 fuel pressure issues??

[Bird76Mojo]

That rubber grommet in the booster may create an intermittent vacuum leak when driving. It would be a cheap part to replace and eliminate from the equation.

Napa has the grommet and check valve all for under $10 - https://www.napaonline.com/p/UBP89000?vehicleAddPDP=true

If you pick one up, you might have to use a little vaseline or WD40 to get the grommet installed.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

That rubber grommet in the booster may create an intermittent vacuum leak when driving. It would be a cheap part to replace and eliminate from the equation.

Napa has the grommet and check valve all for under $10 - https://www.napaonline.com/p/UBP89000?vehicleAddPDP=true

Completely agree.

If you pick one up, you might have to use a little vaseline or WD40 to get the grommet installed.

Giggidy.

 

[CzyRanger]

That rubber grommet in the booster may create an intermittent vacuum leak when driving. It would be a cheap part to replace and eliminate from the equation.

Napa has the grommet and check valve all for under $10 - https://www.napaonline.com/p/UBP89000?vehicleAddPDP=true

If you pick one up, you might have to use a little vaseline or WD40 to get the grommet installed.

@Bird76Mojo
Perfect. Thanks. I'll grab one of them. So what's your take on the IAC issue with the videos I posted testing it? Thanks again fellas! You guys really are great! Appreciate it more than you know. ?

 

[Bird76Mojo]

I forgot one more thing. Whenever you pull a vacuum hose off of the truck during testing, it wouldn't hurt to give them all a good visual inspection. Bend them in all sorts of directions to see if bending them opens up any small cracks in the hose. Sometimes those little cracks in old hoses hide very well..

I'm with Pjunk on the IAC but I can't understand why the idle is temporarily jumping up a little when you plug it back in, and then it returns to normal pretty quickly.. Either way, the IAC is a part that commonly fails on a ton of Fords. If you replace it, it wouldn't hurt to unhook your battery for a few minutes again before trying to start the engine with the new IAC. It just sucks because it's not really a cheap part to replace.

Have you replaced or removed the PCV valve and shaken it to see if the little internal ball rattles? It's another quick and easy check to do.

Had a quick look at RockAuto for prices, and I suppose the prices aren't too terrible. There's also a discount code you can use for an additional 5% off. Code: 115246554108459966

 

[CzyRanger]

I forgot one more thing. Whenever you pull a vacuum hose off of the truck during testing, it wouldn't hurt to give them all a good visual inspection. Bend them in all sorts of directions to see if bending them opens up any small cracks in the hose. Sometimes those little cracks in old hoses hide very well..

I'm with Pjunk on the IAC but I can't understand why the idle is temporarily jumping up a little when you plug it back in, and then it returns to normal pretty quickly.. Either way, the IAC is a part that commonly fails on a ton of Fords. If you replace it, it wouldn't hurt to unhook your battery for a few minutes again before trying to start the engine with the new IAC. It just sucks because it's not really a cheap part to replace.

Have you replaced or removed the PCV valve and shaken it to see if the little internal ball rattles? It's another quick and easy check to do.

Had a quick look at RockAuto for prices, and I suppose the prices aren't too terrible. There's also a discount code you can use for an additional 5% off. Code: 115246554108459966

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@Bird76Mojo
Yea, I'm not sure why it idles up for a second and goes back down when I plug the IAC back in... Odd..maybe @RonD will know? I did replace the PCV valve even though the first one still shook around but for the price I figured it could hurt. Anyway... I am going to get the booster grommet and test valve. Also going to order a IAC valve. Now as far as the brakes being hard. If the IAC is bad and causing my issues after driving a few miles then it's safe to say the brake booster is bad too correct? Thank again fellas!

 

[Bird76Mojo]

I can't understand how the IAC would make it barely run after warming up to the point you have to floor it to gain any speed. Unless it's failed in the fully open position, but then it would seem like the truck would have more idle issues.

I feel like I'm steering you wrong on this and I don't want you to just keep throwing parts at it. That gets expensive fast, and it's a crappy way to go about things.

Your issues after it warms up has me baffled at this point. The only thing we can do is keep eliminating possibilities. That grommet and check valve on the booster is so cheap that I feel like it can't hurt to try a new one. If it eliminates the hard brake pedal then awesome, but I'm not that sure it will. It could still be a bad brake booster or a larger vacuum leak somewhere else. I'm starting to think a smoke test would help us out.

I wish you were closer to me. I'd come by and have a look in person. I'm pretty good at spotting problems if I can get my hands on things in person.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I wish you were closer to me. I'd come by and have a look in person. I'm pretty good at spotting problems if I can get my hands on things in person.

Same. Thought about this already.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Same. Thought about this already.

You thinking smoke test too? That's a surefire way to find or eliminate any vacuum leaks..

 

[CzyRanger]

You thinking smoke test too? That's a surefire way to find or eliminate any vacuum leaks..

@Bird76Mojo
What about if the brake booster is leaking internally?

 

[Bird76Mojo]

That's still a definite possibility.

 

[CzyRanger]

That's still a definite possibility.

@Bird76Mojo
Just wanted to run the pass y'all. Thanks again...

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

You thinking smoke test too? That's a surefire way to find or eliminate any vacuum leaks..

Nope. Looked where he was yo see if he was close enough so I could hear it first-hand lol

 

[Paulos]

Here's some info I came across when diagnosing my 2.9 issues.

https://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/maintenance-repair/buckin-bronco-ii
https://www.aa1car.com/random-misfire/
http://www.underhoodservice.com/diagnostic-dilemmas-symptom-diagnosis-the-journey-begins/

You might also download the Ford Fuel Injection book from The Ranger Station.
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/Ford_Fuel_Injection_Book.pdf
Page 213, table 11, mentions possible reasons for backfiring. This book has a lot of good diagnosis information.

Unfortunately, there isn't always a quick fix for the symptoms you're experiencing, as there are several components that can fail (sometimes intermittently) which can cause similar symptoms. Throwing parts at it will eventually work (I wish I had tried cleaning the fuel injection system and replacing the injectors first, as this would have saved me a lot of time and money), but it's best to correctly diagnose the problem before spending money for unnecessary parts.

The brake booster problem needs to be addressed. You've stated that it's hard to brake, and that the idle is affected by pressing the brake pedal.
You had a code 41, which is an O2 sensor lean code. Did you check the O2 sensor wiring and the ground at the back of the passenger side head?
When unplugging a good IAC a cold engine will struggle to run or die (I just tried mine). Every bad IAC I've had would cause the engine to idle fast.
I had an '88 that backfired and blew up the muffler. I don't remember if it was the ignition module or the ECM, but I think it was a bad ECM.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Nope. Looked where he was yo see if he was close enough so I could hear it first-hand lol

Oh, I know that, but I meant do you also think a smoke test would be any benefit here?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Wish I could say. Never did one.