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88 ford ranger 2.3 l4 automatic. Help with ecm repair


AriannaLeaper

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
6
City
45840
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Can someone please tell me what this compositor controls and also How do I find it do I just search "h8806 capacitor 10v nichicon" There are many in different colors and also this would cause a intermittent start issue? New coil pack, New ignition control module, distributor, rotor, battery, plugs, wireset, fuel regulator valve. Symptoms were sometimes starts with ether and runs all day then chooses to not start again for days at a time, the ecm would not read codes it just stayed lit up with test light then obd1 reader light just stayed lit as well and also the pump would continuously run and not quit after 2 second prime, no spark at distributor when not starting. New starter an solonoid as well, ran seafoam through fuel, oil and intake as well because it runs rich. Any help or answers would be appreciated thank you pics attached of ecm more info would be appreciated thank you.
 

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Im a new member just joined to try the foroum out for the sake of my truck, does anyone have a clue?
 
I would not worry about the capacitor. The chip in front of it, shown in the second image, is blown. All the 'magic smoke' that makes it work leaked out that deformed spot on the right end of the chip.
A common symptom of a failing FoMoCo computer is that the pump runs longer than expected(3-5 seconds). When that occurs, in my limited experience, you might as well wait until the pump stops running before trying to start the engine. I changed the capacitors(one) in that ECM, and finally gave up trying to fix it. Got a 'reman' from an auto parts store, and all is well.
There is a firm in NC, I believe, 'circuit board medics', that will repair electronics, and supposedly tests them before returning to the customer.
The apparent deformity of the chip, labeled 7015FB 885S02 etc. the melted looking spot is common when higher than expected voltage or amperage(current) gets applied and things get too hot. There is no telling what will occur with a damaged chip.
tom
 
Cap replacement info here: http://support.moates.net/capacitor-repair-ford-a9l-ecm/

Those are about the only repairs possible, chip replacement is often a waste of time and money

Look for replacement EEC-IV

You need to match:
engine size
Manual or automatic trans
EGR or no EGR

2WD or 4x4 doesn't matter
 
The capacitance rating - in this case, it appears to be 47uf or possibly 4.7uf - is the important part. If you have an electronics store and they have one rated for that and 10v, great, otherwise you can use one rated for a higher voltage with no issues.

You can replace that chip too if you want although they are difficult to unsolder. 7015FB is the part number. I do not feel that it looks damaged in the pictures but I cannot be 100% certain of that.

I have done many, many hundreds of capacitor replacements on electronic equipment over the years. It's easy but takes some practice. If you have a broken radio or something that you can practice desoldering components from first, that would be ideal just so you can get the hang of it.
 
We receive the solder gun Friday and the compositor I got was a 47uf I was confused as well wil the 4.7 or 47uf but I went with 47uF 10v and it arrives Monday, I will practive with another board before my first attempt and I will update.
 
It's probably 47uf but you can certainly get 4.7uf caps. Be sure you install it in the correct direction - most caps have the negative side labeled. They are polarized like batteries and the magic smoke will be released if it's backwards.
 
Board comes tomorrow I have a more experiened solder guy going to knock it out tom.
 
Okay here is the update I installed the new capacitor and reinstalled. Fuel pump now shuts off at correct time, engine cpu now reads codes I have code 21(ECT) ,24(ACT) ,52(Power steering pressure switch). Would any of these codes cause a no start? Should I have disconnected battery cable and reconnected? Any info would be great but yes ECM is reading now.
 
Ignition module and extra ground moved to different spot. Got codes 52 only on engine off test now which is because a wire is pulled from plug, Engine running test brings up codes 22(Map out of spec) = I have a new map in. code 16 rpm to low or idle speed control, code 77 operating error during dynamic response test, code 13 rpm out of spec during normal idle, code 12 system cannot raise engine speed above normal idle. Any ideas symptoms are engine coolant not reading correct on dash i still assume to be the engine coolent temp sensor the engine is rough idle 800rpm no movement in idle when revved drops lower and goes to 800rpm and truck seems to be running rich judging by exhaust smoke. Any help lmk I will even post a youtube video if needed just lmk if someone can help thank you.
 

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