88 2.9 issues

[bigfatloser]

88 ranger 2wd,2.9, 5 speed.

Purchased over a year ago as a project for my daughter to drive. Trailered home. Original motor had bad heads, never really ran it, cranked and barely ran.(cannot recall if I used starting fluid) fast forward.... Engine swap, worn 2.9 for a not so worn 2.9.

Cranks but will not run, runs with a shot of starting fluid, only until starting fluid is gone.

Lead to fuel pumps only getting 6.5+/- volts, reading little to no voltage at injectors (0.6+/-) New relay. Pumps do run when jumpered. Grounds checked.

bought code reader today. Did a key on, engine off test

51 coolant temp sensor signal voltage too high. (Not yet replaced)

67 improper signal neutral drive switch/neutral gear switch/neutral pressure switch/ clutch switch/manual lever position sonsor OR air conditioner switch/A/C on during test (A/C was not on)

95 thermactor air system problem OR fuel pump monitor signal-indicates circut problem (inspect harness?)

where to go what to do? Any ideas before I tear the intact non molested wire harness apart?

 

[fyre82]

These critters can be a bit cantankerous.

1st, check the inertia switch under the dash.

Then check grounds. Clean every one you can find and be sure your battery is fully charged.

Then go at the codes one at a time.
You have the ECT sensor identified.
Check the neutral plug on the tranny and clutch interface switch clean and lightly grease every thing related.
Disconnect the battery to reset codes and retest.

I have had a variety of odd results just from bad/missing grounds or insufficient voltage.

 

[noahkenny]

These critters can be a bit cantankerous.

1st, check the inertia switch under the dash.

Then check grounds. Clean every one you can find and be sure your battery is fully charged.

Then go at the codes one at a time.
You have the ECT sensor identified.
Check the neutral plug on the tranny and clutch interface switch clean and lightly grease every thing related.
Disconnect the battery to reset codes and retest.

I have had a variety of odd results just from bad/missing grounds or insufficient voltage.

When people post their issues with vehicles in almost every response someone says to check grounds wires. Poor grounding does cause a lot of problems when it comes to anything electronic. .3 ohms of resistance in a ground circuit does not sound like much but it is enough to cause you misery. Even in simple electric circuits like fuel pump connections. Its always a good idea to keep a check on your ground connections and periodically clean them, especially the ones which are exposed to the elements. You would be suprised how many problems you can stop before they even start. This really rings true the older the vehicle is and how much off roading it has seen. In the field I am in (heavy eq. tech) I would say that poor electical connections account for more than half of the electronic issues that I see in heavy equipment.

 

[gillman]

wiring harness

I have a 88 ranger may have to change wiring harness. Because droped a 3.0 in the truck so may have a wiring harness for you.

 

[bigfatloser]

Thanks for the replys, been lurking for awhile, Read countless posts about grounds and dirty connections ect, started there. Turns out to be owner/operator error. Seems I have been using a meter incorrectly to check voltage, meter was set right, I was touching terminals like i was checking for continuity. Not power to ground. Found a bad inertia switch, checked it at least 5 times before, even jumpered it. That along with disconnecting, cleaning and applying dielectric grease to alost everything may have eliminated a bad connecton as well. Fuel pumps now come on with the key, 2 seconds then off, like they should. But... still not running. 12 volts at the injectors but I only have a digital meter, assuming the firing (grounding) of the injectors is too quick to see on a digital meter, sooooo on to fuel pressure testing I guess. Have fuel at the rail, sprays out of the test port. Tomorrows task.

Thanks again for the help. Fourm rocks!

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, the firing pulse is too fast to see on a digital meter. It's best checked with a test light.

 

[bigfatloser]

Ok, made progress today. Fuel pressure test ok, hovers around 40psi key on and while cranking. All 6 injectors flashed the noid lite. New coolant sensor, neutral sense switch jumpered. Cleared stored codes, tried to start again, no codes. Have spark, still not running, timing set while cranking as per Haynes manual. (Shorting bar removed,10 degrees BTDC) Runs briefly and only on starting fluid, not on it's own.

Believe I have the correct timing marks on the pulley. There is a pointer and a ring a inch or so counterclockwise from the TDC. See photo. Pointer on 10BTDC, red line is TDC. Pointer and ring are on both motors.

Another thought of mine is, The injectors and rail are from the new (92 used swapped into my 88) motor. Assuming timing is correct, can the newer injectors be plugged or clogged shut? Have not tried to apply voltage to them installed and see if they click. That is also assuming that kind of test would indicate the injectors are working/flowing. The Haynes manual shows no test method for injectors.

 

[88 Red Ranger]

How do you do the noid light? Can each injector plug be undone one at a time or have to pull upper intake and fuel rail 6 times?

 

[bigfatloser]

Each injector individually, no need to unbolt anything, Disconnect wire from injector, plug in Noid, crank motor. Look for lite to flash. Can't attach pictire from my phone, will later.

 

[bigfatloser]

Another day and still have a non running motor. Swapped injectors, no click when 12v applied to ones installed. Installed old injectors and rail, but kept pressure regulator. Attached to fuel line to old rail brfore I installed them and all 6 sprayed when 12v was applied. Coil tested good at local Autozone, my coil had the same readings when a new coil was brought out and tested as well. Kinda fires for a second every other rotation, every time #1 cyl is at TDC it seems. Timing unchanged, 10 degrees BTDC, checked with lite while cranking. Removed spark plug, dry and had spark. Starting fluid seems to have little effect this time around. No codes. Dumbfounded.

EDIT: code 96 (Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits) did pop up, but pump comes on for a few seconds when key turned on. Code does not pop up after clearing it unless I attempt to start motor.

 

[bigfatloser]

She' a runner!!! pulled a plug to check for spark.... again.... While cranknig it stumbled around and ran a bit. Further confused... remembered previous owner mentioned bad heads, oil/water in the cylibder. Plugged cats??? loosened and separated the Y connector at the cats and BINGO!!! Runs like a champ.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[84bluebronco2]

Good to see someone who is so resourceful! Stick around the forums. I'm sure someone will put your problem solving skills to the test!