87 F150 Won’t Start

[rusty ol ranger]

OBD1 run fuel psi 40 to 47


Obd 2 fuel 55 ish

Thats pry where i screwed up. Mine was a 96 OBD II

 

[franklin2]

I’ve been using pyroil in the throttle bodies but the only thing I get in return is a couple starter skips and pops and bangs with white smoke.

That's a good sign. Sounds like it is trying to run. If you get the fuel thing worked out it might go.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Sounds like its got spark.

Check the injectoe grounds? If you got good pressure to the rail

 

[Mhfco6]

Once the inertia switch is tripped bad enough to not allow being pushed back in. Does this indicate a bad switch. I still have it rigged closed with zipties. Fuel pumps never ran before I zip-tied the inertia switch.

 

[franklin2]

Once the inertia switch is tripped bad enough to not allow being pushed back in. Does this indicate a bad switch. I still have it rigged closed with zipties. Fuel pumps never ran before I zip-tied the inertia switch.

I would think so. As long as it's mounted properly. If it's all cock-eyed in there it will never reset.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Once the inertia switch is tripped bad enough to not allow being pushed back in. Does this indicate a bad switch. I still have it rigged closed with zipties. Fuel pumps never ran before I zip-tied the inertia switch.

You can jump past the inertia switch with a piece of wire

 

[Mhfco6]

Only thing I can thing to do now is reset timing AGAIN, just to double check everything. Might get new plugs while I’m at it.

 

[Mhfco6]

SHE RUNS! I reset the timing, pulled #1 piston to TDC on compression stoke, pulled and reset distributor into the cam gear. Pointed the rotor at spark plug #1. Little starting fluid and truck is running again.

Yesterday morning I drained the milky oil and filled with fresh oil and changed the filter. I also pulled the plugs and dripped a small amount of oil in cylinders for extra protection.

There is a ton of white smoke flowing out of the exhaust. I assume it’s because of the oil put in the plug holes.. hope it’s nothing worse.

I drained the oil and filled with fresh 5w-30, still a hint of chocolate mile but much better. Smoke is getting less as the truck runs but it WILL NOT accelerate. Just bogs down until I advance timing by turning the distributor.

 

[Will]

Compression test? To me it seems like it's a weak pumper, or maybe it froze and cracked.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

SHE RUNS! I reset the timing, pulled #1 piston to TDC on compression stoke, pulled and reset distributor into the cam gear. Pointed the rotor at spark plug #1. Little starting fluid and truck is running again.

Yesterday morning I drained the milky oil and filled with fresh oil and changed the filter. I also pulled the plugs and dripped a small amount of oil in cylinders for extra protection.

There is a ton of white smoke flowing out of the exhaust. I assume it’s because of the oil put in the plug holes.. hope it’s nothing worse.

I drained the oil and filled with fresh 5w-30, still a hint of chocolate mile but much better. Smoke is getting less as the truck runs but it WILL NOT accelerate. Just bogs down until I advance timing by turning the distributor.

Its not losing coolant is it?

It sounds to like the timing isnt advancing. You plugged the SPOUT connector back in didnt you?

 

[Mhfco6]

Coolant seems to be at the same level in radiator when I check it. So my timing light isn’t working. If I advance the distributor by turning it a bit, the truck will idle up much higher. I think I just need to fine tune the timing with a new light. There is VERY minimal smoke now. After I shut the truck off the fan blower turns on for a bit and then shuts off. I read it is used to cool the fuel rail/injectors? My fuel rail is extremely hot when the truck is running. Thanks for the replies!

 

[Mhfco6]

Yesterday I started the truck, it ran then shut off. Now my fuel pressure gauge is reading 20 psi max. The in tank pump and the HP frame rail pump are running. I disconnected the Dual Fuel Selector ASY again, and I now have no fuel coming from the tank lines. Time to replace the tank pumps?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Yesterday I started the truck, it ran then shut off. Now my fuel pressure gauge is reading 20 psi max. The in tank pump and the HP frame rail pump are running. I disconnected the Dual Fuel Selector ASY again, and I now have no fuel coming from the tank lines. Time to replace the tank pumps?

You can only get 20 psi from both tanks? The chances of both taking a shit at once are pretty slim.

If its 20 psi on both id be pointing at the rail pump.

 

[Mhfco6]

Yes the fuel pressure gauge stays around 15-20 psi, even after switching between both tanks. Tank A pump doesn't work and fuel gauge pegs out full. I've had the truck running on tank B before, but I had to switch the lines around on the tank selector in the rail, because it only wants to function properly that way.

There is no fuel getting to the rail pump.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Yes the fuel pressure gauge stays around 15-20 psi, even after switching between both tanks. Tank A pump doesn't work and fuel gauge pegs out full. I've had the truck running on tank B before, but I had to switch the lines around on the tank selector in the rail, because it only wants to function properly that way.

There is no fuel getting to the rail pump.

Sounds like tank A has a bad ground/pump/sending unit compounded with a bad selector...