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87 F150 Won’t Start


That thing you thought was a filter is what Ford calls the fuel reservoir. That link that is in the previous post is the wrong valve. That large round thing you took apart is your switching valve, fuel pressure from the pumps operate it. When you electrically switch power from one pump to the other, the pressure from the pump goes up to the fuel reservoir and moves the spool inside to switch the lines and send the return fuel to the proper tank.
No.....cause even single tanked rangers have that black fuel canister. Seems like all that is for is to hold fuel to allow quicker starts or something along those lines. If you pull one apart theres nothing inside of one. The later model trucks (once ford started using just a high pressure pump in the tank) dont even have a black canister even with dual tanks.


IIRC the valve i posted is first in line, as in...

fuel tanks >selector valve>canister>rail pump>filter>engine.

They can get stuck halfway between postions and will usually just feed fuel between the tanks.
 
No.....cause even single tanked rangers have that black fuel canister. Seems like all that is for is to hold fuel to allow quicker starts or something along those lines. If you pull one apart theres nothing inside of one. The later model trucks (once ford started using just a high pressure pump in the tank) dont even have a black canister even with dual tanks.


IIRC the valve i posted is first in line, as in...

fuel tanks >selector valve>canister>rail pump>filter>engine.

They can get stuck halfway between postions and will usually just feed fuel between the tanks.

Excellent info here guys! The only 4 in - 2 out I saw was that empty black canister in the rail before rail pump and filter. Where is the selector valve located? Attached are pictures. I have: Fuel Tanks/Canister/Railpump/Filter
 

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See all those lines on top? That is your switching valve. Like I said Ford calls it the "fuel reservoir".

index.php
 
No.....cause even single tanked rangers have that black fuel canister. Seems like all that is for is to hold fuel to allow quicker starts or something along those lines. If you pull one apart theres nothing inside of one. The later model trucks (once ford started using just a high pressure pump in the tank) dont even have a black canister even with dual tanks.


IIRC the valve i posted is first in line, as in...

fuel tanks >selector valve>canister>rail pump>filter>engine.

They can get stuck halfway between postions and will usually just feed fuel between the tanks.

That valve you linked to was used on mostly on the older 460's with the in tank electric pumps and the holley 4bbl, and the diesels. It's a 6 port valve that needs electric to run it. It has 6 ports because the 460's and the diesels had a return fuel system. I don't know if they ever used it on any rangers or not. When they went to fuel injection, they used the totally mechanical "fuel reservoir" type valve.
 
See all those lines on top? That is your switching valve. Like I said Ford calls it the "fuel reservoir".

index.php

I will take the supply lines from the tank off this unit tomorrow and report back if I have any fuel. Thanks!
 
That valve you linked to was used on mostly on the older 460's with the in tank electric pumps and the holley 4bbl, and the diesels. It's a 6 port valve that needs electric to run it. It has 6 ports because the 460's and the diesels had a return fuel system. I don't know if they ever used it on any rangers or not. When they went to fuel injection, they used the totally mechanical "fuel reservoir" type valve.
Im talking about the black fuel resivor being on rangers.

My 97 has that switch valve, of course it does have a 460, but the 96 4wd with a 300 i had also had that valve, as did my 88 351.

@Mhfco6 when it warms up later this afternoon ill crawl under my 97 and take some pics of its location. That way you can verify if its there or not. I know its right along the drivers side frame rail somewhere.
 
Thanks! So I crawled under the truck this morning and got to work. I disconnected all 6 lines from the switching valve/fuel reservoir. Turned the key to start and fuel shot out of the line like a rocket from rear tank. I didn’t even check the front one. I should have but I can later. I removed the black unit and took it apart. The spring operated valve was seized. I lubed it up and worked it back and forth, then reassembled top cover with RTV. Installed everything, minus the 10mm bolts to the rail. Curiosity is killing me but need to wait a little bit for RTV to cure.
 

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Thanks! So I crawled under the truck this morning and got to work. I disconnected all 6 lines from the switching valve/fuel reservoir. Turned the key to start and fuel shot out of the line like a rocket from rear tank. I didn’t even check the front one. I should have but I can later. I removed the black unit and took it apart. The spring operated valve was seized. I lubed it up and worked it back and forth, then reassembled top cover with RTV. Installed everything, minus the 10mm bolts to the rail. Curiosity is killing me but need to wait a little bit for RTV to cure.
Guess i was only 1/2 right this time. My bad.

But ill gurantee that was it.
 
I’m gunna start it up soon, can’t help my self. Also any idea what’s up with the oil color.. may just be me since smelling all this fuel, but almost has a fuel odor along with the white color. Truck has been sitting since about 2008.
 

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Turned the key and no go. Pulled the switching valve back out again... hooked it up to compressed air and it switches. The rear tank inlet needs a lot of pressure to want to switch. Is this normal? If so maybe just need a new higher pressure pump. It will work hooked up to an air compressor, but will not switch hooked up to the truck.



I switched the front and rear tank supply lines on the Switching reservoir and have adequate fuel pressure at the rail now. I have spark and truck is still not starting...
Also fuel pressure drops to 10psi after about 10 minutes after TRYING to start truck.
 
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The 300 needs 65 psi to run. The normal 40-45 wont cut it.

The whiteness of the oil is probably condensation...just change it.

Distributor aint been moved has it? It cant be cam timing cause its got a gear not a chain.

If its dropping that quick you pry got a stuck open injector or two...wonder if its flooding....hows the plugs looking?
 
The 300 needs 65 psi to run. The normal 40-45 wont cut it.

The whiteness of the oil is probably condensation...just change it.

Distributor aint been moved has it? It cant be cam timing cause its got a gear not a chain.

If its dropping that quick you pry got a stuck open injector or two...wonder if its flooding....hows the plugs looking?

According to my book, the fuel pressure runs the same as the other Fords, around 38 psi, + or - depending on the load on the engine (vacuum to the regulator).

If you shoot some brake cleaner into the intake it should try to run. Unless you have other problems besides fuel.
 
The distributor has been moved. When I got it I noticed it wasn’t all the way in the block. I pulled it, checked the gear, reinstalled and set time. Truck started after I did that with starting fluid. This is when it ran for about 45 seconds. Hasn’t run since. I have not changed plugs yet. Only pulled them to make sure I’m getting spark.

I’ve been using pyroil in the throttle bodies but the only thing I get in return is a couple starter skips and pops and bangs with white smoke.
 
The 300 needs 65 psi to run. The normal 40-45 wont cut it.

The whiteness of the oil is probably condensation...just change it.

Distributor aint been moved has it? It cant be cam timing cause its got a gear not a chain.

If its dropping that quick you pry got a stuck open injector or two...wonder if its flooding....hows the plugs looking?
OBD1 run fuel psi 40 to 47


Obd 2 fuel 55 ish
 

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