85 rangers cranks but wont start

[redneck105]

ok i really need this truck running to get to work so today i went to start it and it juat clicked so i drift started it and it ran i ran it for about 40 feet to my shed where my tools are i shut it off i knew it was probably my terminals so i checked them And sure enough ground was loose so i tightened it up and it turns over but will not start the previous owner has a jumper wire where the fuel pump relay was i got underneath And u can bareley hear the fuel pumps running so i hooked another jumper wire straight up to my battery and both pumps work fine but still wont start. also the relay beside the ecm with the brown housing Is making a buzzing noise when i turn the key to start position

 

[RonD]

Reads like a wiring issue if Fuel Pump relay was already jumped.

Buzzing relay is not good, means bad relay or low power at the relay.

'85 will have a few Fusible Link wires coming off the Starter Relay's "battery" post.
Battery's positive cable will go to the Starter Relay on the inner fender, that's the battery post where all the power for the truck connects, instead of fuses they used Fusible Links, these are color coded short wires that will burn out and separate without causing a fire, if there is a short.

 

[YungICY]

I'd replace that ecm relay. It's just a few bucks and it sounds like it needs it. If I remember correctly it is the power supply for the computer. Also check the blue (I think) wire coming from that relay I had mine burn out on me once before and it caused a no power anywhere issue.

 

[redneck105]

thanks so much for responding i just tested it im getting 12 volts on all 4 wirea coming to relay

 

[RonD]

thanks so much for responding i just tested it im getting 12 volts on all 4 wirea coming to relay

I assume that is with relay connected and key on?
If not then there is a problem


Put some gas into the intake(or starting fluid) and try to start engine.
If it fires up then dies fuel is your problem
If it doesn't fire up then spark is the issue

 

[redneck105]

its with the key on and i already tried that with the fuel it started up and died but fuel pumps are both running front one is only 2 months old im just wondering if this relay is causeing a problem with my injectors not working

 

[YungICY]

I suppose that's possible but I will say that my in tank pump has always been an issue for me. I've been through two of them I a little over two years. If you've got a pressure gauge plug it onto the fuel rail. I could be wrong but iirc you should be getting around 40psi.

 

[RonD]

On the fuel rail, where injectors get their fuel, you will see a schrader valve, looks like a tires air valve, may have a cap on like a tire valve would, remove the cap and stand off to the side, press center pin in, like letting air out of a tire, fuel should squirt out 20-30ft, should be 35psi pressure in there.
If not then check valve in high pressure pump may be bad or Fuel Pressure Regulator may be.

Each fuel injector should have 12volts at both wires when key is on.

On '85 fuel injectors are opened by computer 3 at a time, and alternate between the other 3.

There is one 12volt wire that comes from EEC relay and daisy chains from one injector to the next, so all 6 should have 12volts when key is on.
An injector is only 12-14ohms so the 12volts just passes thru it, that is why either wire will show 12volts.

Computer has two wires coming out to the injectors, one wire to 3 injectors(1,3,5) the other wire to the 3 other injectors(2,4,6).
Computer alternately Grounds the wires to open 3 injectors at a time.

The timing for that Ground comes from the TFI module(via sensor in distributor), the PIP pulse, this pulse is also used to time the spark.
If engine fires up with fuel added then PIP pulse is at the TFI module, but may not be getting to computer.
Computer won't start fuel injection without PIP/timing pulse

First check to make sure injectors are getting the 12volts.

 

[redneck105]

well i think i finished the relay off i wathed a video by eric the car guy about testing relays And he said to hook a jumper cable up to the relay straight from the battery to see if it clicks and it did nothing i plugged it back in and it quit buzzing and now my fuel pumps wont work ill go in the morning and get a new relay man i hope i get this thing running i know anything about fords if it was a chevy id have it running yesterday ive looked this thing over idk how many times and i did find a little orange wire that fell off the alternator and thats the only wire problem i can find

 

[RonD]

Orange wire on alternator is the Field connection for the external voltage regulator, you need it

Automotive relays are pretty standard, meaning any 12volt 40amp relay will work in the socket of any other 12v 40amp relay.

And if you want you can use a jumper wire to continue testing vehicle.

Look at the diagram here: http://www.reuk.co.uk/Automotive-Relays.htm
2nd/3rd diagrams down

4 and 5 pin relays

85 and 86 is the coil connection, low amps, if 85 has 12v and 86 is Grounded relay will click, and visa versa there is no + or -
If 85 is grounded to vehicle and when key is turn on pin 86 gets 12volts the relay will close/click.
85 and 86 is the relays 12volt rating, it needs 12volts thru coil to close and hold closed position

Pin 30 is the power you want to pass, this is the relays Load, the 30amp rating.
30's power will come from a fused connection
When relay is closed pin 30 and pin 87 will be connected, so power can pass thru to.........Computer(EEC relay) or fuel pump(fuel pump relay), ect...........

5th pin, 87a, is hardly ever used, when relay is "off" 30 and 87a are connected, it allows two separate devices to get power depending on relay being open or closed, but one device will be off when the other is on and visa versa.

Anyway.........if you pull the relay and jump slot 30 to slot 87 device will power up

 

[redneck105]

it is a 4 pin relay 2 big slots and 2 small slots how so i know what slot is 30 and what slot is 87