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85 Ranger getting some teeth...


I turned the key switch. Deep inside her belly the Ranger groaned, a straining rumble sounding for all the world like a giant dynamo coming alive. Ahead of me the crankshaft pulley turned slowly, then began to move faster as the 302 gained in power. The rumble increased in pitch, the pulley became a blur. Suddenly the cranking and rumbling vanished, to be replaced by a tremendous, throaty roar, a bass of power such as I'd never heard. I cracked the pedal forward a fraction of an inch and the truck sang of power, a symphony of thunder, alive and ready to howl at the slightest movement of my foot.

:yahoo::icon_surprised::headbang:

:icon_thumby:GREAT JOB, SORRY I wasn't here when it happened. Great job on the Ranger too.:D
 
I had it running again tonight, but after I got it a little warmed up it started leaking antifreeze profusely around the upper tranny cooler fitting. Due to the proximity of the power steering pump to the lower one I am not using the tranny cooler part of it at all. Is here a way to fix this or am I better off to get a different radiator?

Also, for tranny coolers, how big is big enough to keep a C4/5 cool on its own without the cooler in the radiator? Do they have to be mounted with the tubes horizontally like from the factory or can they go up and down? I am going to have a pusher fan (I haven't settled on what) between the tranny cooler and radiator if that matters.
 
nice clean swap good job .if this helps i have been running it two years on a c4 no problems.
3115811_79.jpg
 
I have a b&m tranny cooler on my 71 montego and I am running a 3000 stall convertor in the c-4 and I had a tranny temp gauge on it for a while to see how it was doing and the tranny never got hot. I am trying to remember the size of the cooler I am thinking it is about 8"x12" and i have it mounted verticle. I mounted it in front of the core support and I am using a flex fan with it but the fan doesn't pull much air across it the way it is mounted.but like I said I have never had a problem with it
 
Good job on getting it to run :icon_thumby:

Now that you have it done, you should hop over here to Omaha and swap one into my B2 for me :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl:
 
Good job on getting it to run :icon_thumby:

Now that you have it done, you should hop over here to Omaha and swap one into my B2 for me :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl:

It ain't done yet :D

I have another 302, if your back seat flips down it would go right in. :icon_thumby:
 
Congrats! Cant wait to see a video of it going (if you plan to do one that is :D )
 
Congrats! Cant wait to see a video of it going (if you plan to do one that is :D )

If I can run the thing long enough to get the timing set I would like to...

Radiator should be in first thing in the morning.

So tonight I am going to double check driveshaft length so I can get them done, fiddle with the NSS and try to get it more consistant (shifter has to be just right in park for it to work) put the 4x4 bezel together and on, and pull this radiator back out in preperation for the new one.
 
fiddle with the NSS and try to get it more consistant (shifter has to be just right in park for it to work)

Is there no nss & reverse light switch on your trans (?) I spliced into my AOD plug like my 2.9L was and kept the plugs, made a small harness for it. Could have used the 2.9L plug with the extra wire for lock up, but I had to shorten it up anyway. I wasn't real impressed with the switch setup on my B&M Sport shifter to be honest, but it's nothing fancy either. Just thought at the time that splicing in to the transmissions original switch would be the easiest and most reliable way for it to work.
 
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Is there no nss & reverse light switch on your trans (?) I spliced into my AOD plug like my 2.9L was and kept the plugs, made a small harness for it. Could have used the 2.9L plug with the extra wire for lock up, but I had to shorten it up anyway. I wasn't real impressed with the switch setup on my B&M Sport shifter to be honest, but it's nothing fancy either. Just thought at the time that splicing in to the transmissions original switch would be the easiest and most reliable way for it to work.

I had ordered the regular switch... but for some reason my shifter shaft doesn't have the slot in it to move the switch... it wouldn't even go on. Now that I am using the B&M shifter it wouldn't go on anyway.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61372&page=14

I am not really seeing a way to adjust it, I have to pull up on the lever for the switch to close. I might just try to glue some shim material in there... or I might leave it as an anti-theft device.
 
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For e-fans, does it matter what controller you use with what fan?

I am liking the looks of this fan:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1987/

With this controller:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31147/

I tried one from Advance Auto that used a probe inserted into the radiator fins.........................DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY ON THAT POS. I bought a "Painless Wiring" kit afterwards...........................:icon_thumby::icon_thumby::icon_thumby::icon_thumby::icon_thumby: that uses a sensor in the coolant port of the intake.:icon_cheers:
 

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