85 Ranger getting some teeth...

[85_Ranger4x4]

Getting ready for the big moment...

Just look at that big greasy monster crawling out of the truck

Out for good, no going back now.

I still have to get the V6 motor mounts out and clean the bottom of the engine bay, you might say over the years the 2.8 puked all over. I also wouldn't mind throwing a little paint on the front part of the frame while it is nice and open.

I also have to prep the 302 a little, stick the ugly valve covers on it for install, the other exhaust manifold, lifting brackets and dipstick tube... and I think we are about ready to go back together.

Question of the day is, going back together is it better to put the tranny in first, the engine, will the both go in together... or what is the best way to go? The 2.8 (with the crankshaft pulleys) and A4LD just barely fit going out, another coat of paint and I think we would have lost some paint.

 

[baddad457]

Put em in together. Sure it's not easy, but it's easier than going in from the bottom with the transmission. Let the air out of the front tires first. Get the front end as low as you can go, then raise it back up once you get the engine/trans in place

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Put em in together. Sure it's not easy, but it's easier than going in from the bottom with the transmission. Let the air out of the front tires first. Get the front end as low as you can go, then raise it back up once you get the engine/trans in place

Is there room to kick it off to the side to drill the mount holes or do you have to put it in, mark it, take it out and then put it back in again?

A thought my brother had was to take the bellhousing off the tranny and put it on the engine, so I know roughly where I am front to rear. Pull it out, drill and notch the holes and then set it all back in at once fully assembled and let the engine locate the transmission.

Also, for anyone that was wondering, even with the deep bellhousing the C5 is about 4" shorter than a A4LD.

 

[baddad457]

I doubt you can drill holes with the engine in there. Got a cutting torch in that shop, don't you ? (never seen a farmer that didn't ) That's what I used to cut slots for the Stang mount studs. (vertical to compensate for the changing position when lowered all the way) Then I drilled two holes each side and bolted these with 3/8" bolts and lock nuts to insure they didn;t go anywhere. I've left them bolted in ever since and made mount studs from 7/16" threaded rod to replace the bolts in the block.(7/16" x 2") This makes it easier to align the mounts to the motor. You just drop the motor down onto the mounts, and align the studs to the holes with a crow bar. I used 7/16" lock nuts on the studs. This method has worked far better than trying to align the mount holes to the block holes from under the truck and then trying to start the bolts into the holes.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Got a couple torches and a plasma cutter, dunno why I didn't think of that. Not a farmer's shop but a commercial farm repair shop, we have got about everything.

I didn't know if the chicken or the egg came first or if they would both go in at the same time.

And I am using 'stang mounts too.

 

[Teddyzee]

I put the motor and trans (T5) in together.

Left them on the chain.

Set the engine down, marked my holes, lifted the engine slightly, but left it in there. Then I got in and drilled, used a grinder, etc, for the slots. Pretty simple once you're actually doing it.

Ibeams in the garage ceiling FTW!

 

[baddad457]

Got a couple torches and a plasma cutter, dunno why I didn't think of that. Not a farmer's shop but a commercial farm repair shop, we have got about everything.

I didn't know if the chicken or the egg came first or if they would both go in at the same time.

And I am using 'stang mounts too.

Ah! high falutin farm shop !! Use the Plasma cutter.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

I used a Smoke Wrench myself,Plas. would work great!

 

[gwaii]

I doubt you can drill holes with the engine in there. Got a cutting torch in that shop, don't you ? (never seen a farmer that didn't ) That's what I used to cut slots for the Stang mount studs. (vertical to compensate for the changing position when lowered all the way)

this is the same method i've always used too.i've done more than 20(lost count of the actual total)5.0 swaps in rangers,and this is a quick and effective way to fit it together.

just get the trans on it's mount,set the engine so the studs on the mounts are just sitting on the crossmember,and cut slots the width of the studs and about 1'' down-then drop it in.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I was poking around my C5 tonight comparing how the NSS differed from my A4LD, I don't know why but I tried to turn the input shaft and it wouldn't turn. Not the little stub shaft that goes in it but the bigger shaft. It is on a stand so I couldn't really get after it but I thought it would have done something.

Should I be able to turn that by hand or not? That got me a little wound up so I checked and if it isn't in park (got me even more wound up until I thought of it) I can turn the output shaft fine. It has been sitting for a couple years, could it have gotten gummed up or something?

 

[baddad457]

I cut my teeth on the cutting torch just after highschool working in the family sawmill/logging operation. If it won't move, get a RBFH. If it STILL won't move, break out the cutting torch.

 

[rednine4]

I think my c4/c5 is the same way, so no worries. I will check it and let you know for sure though.

 

[Psychopete]

Try to turn it with the converter in place

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Try to turn it with the converter in place

That was going to be my next step, I might just need more leverage.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I tried my C4 and it wouldn't turn either, so I am going to roll with it being normal for now.