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85 b2 4x4


92xplorer4x4

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2009
Messages
137
City
middleburg,fl
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
i just got this 85 bII.its in really good condition.it has a rebuilt 2.8 and a code 5 5 speed,it has 3:73 gears with a L/S in rear.i got it on friday for $1000 and i have already got a xrc 8000 lbs winch for it and a superlift 4" lift(this kit is for a ranger bit it should work...right?).
i do have a few q's...... it sometimes stalls when going to take off,like its not getting fuel.you mash the go pedal and it just falls on its face.it has backfired once.it does not do it all the time,somethimes it runs perfect.it does have an exhaust leak from the air tube thing on the right side of the motor next to the exh. manifold.any ideas?
and 2nd q... my hvac controls do not work.blower motor does not come on at all.you can side the switches anywhere and nothing happens.what could this be?
anyways here is a few pics of it the day i got it...these pics are of it in the for sale ad on cl...not my photos but is my bII now.

3kf3oa3pc5q25p05s5a5s8e73efcc74b1164d.jpg

3na3od3l05q25z25u0a5s5930159556ac1cd4.jpg

3ne3kd3lb5v25t45u0a5s5cc702c0dbde1962.jpg
 
I cant find a code 55. 54 is ACT air charge temp that is the sensor in the air filter housing check the connection and clean the sensor with electrical connector cleaner or rubbing alcohol and code 56 is VAT vane air temp I dont believe you have one. The ACT tells the computer the air temp going into the carb and adjusts the air fuel mix a loose connection would give erratic performance. Is your pre-heater door working in the filter housing with the duct to the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. check that the door is closed and is pulling warm air into the carb when the engine is cold and the door opens after the engine starts to get warm. The vacuum line that controls the door goes from the filter housing to the intake manifold vacuum off the tree by the dizzy. as far as the fan there is a resistor that controls the fan speed try cleaning the connector somtimes just taking it off and putting it back on can do the trick but putting some dielectric grease on the connections will protect it from moisture. It is in the heater duct next to the blower motor under the hood and take the connector for the blower apart and clean it also hope that works.
 
As far as the exhaust leak are you talking about the air tube that goes to the valves for the air pump depending where it is leaking you can get the tube but changing it can be a biotch especially if the bolts dont want to come out without breaking.
 
i dont have any codes...the code i listed is my tranny door code... a code 5 5speed manual tranny the k something tranny.sorry for the confusion.
it has an aftermarket air cleaner on it.i will try the stuff you listed and see what works,thank you for your responce.
 
Hello there, congratulations on your new bronco. I have an '85 bronco II also. Your 4" lift for the ranger you will find that the front will work. The rear might...if it is just blocks. You'll have to go onto superlift's site and check the part numbers. The worst thing would be that you wiil have to get rear lift components for your bronco II.

The issue with your fan speed, Kim is right, but you may find that the resisitor is just shot and you need a new one. Not a biggie, they cost about 20-25 bucks.

Now your carb and air tube issues...How far do you want to take it? On my '85 I just finished a duraspark conversion, Kim was a tremendous help with it. I also have headers on my truck and a 2 and a half inch exhaust. The duraspark eliminates the factory computer ignition that doesn't work right and allows a better carb and vacuum advance distributor. The improvements are incredible! Throttle response and power are back, when you stomp the throttle down it accelerates with no hesitation. The tech library has alot of info on this conversion. I ended up using a holley 350 carb but many options are out there. I eliminated the airtubes altogether and welded the holes closed on the headers. It worked fine, also eliminated the air pump. The only hang up for any of this is if you have emissions where you are.

My truck has a 4" lift and 31" tires. It is currently awaiting a 5.5" stage 3 James Duff lift and either 32" or 33" tires.

Good luck and keep us posted
 
hey thanks,i need to take a few pics of the motor.it has a holley carb, a mallory dizzy,msd coil and sounds like a small cam.the motor is smooth no shaking or anything in the engine compartment but at the tailpipe is has a noticable lopey cam sound and it smooths out as soon as you give it gas.idling it sounds like a 5.0 mustang with a e-cam.the motor was rebuilt about 40k ago.
i am think about doing the 3.8 efi conversion and aerostar headers.maybe a e-fan too just to get alittle more power.i'll go get the pics now and get them posted.
 
thanks... i think.
heres the pics of the motor.

img_0741.jpg

img_0742.jpg

img_0743.jpg


here is the maloory dizzy(i took that vac hose off so you can see the dizzy,its back on know)
img_0745.jpg


the holley carb
img_0749.jpg


what i did for the air temp sensor
img_0747.jpg


and my temp fix for the air tube
img_0746.jpg
 
Last edited:
i do not know if it is still computer controled or not...i dont see any duraspark boxes.can anyone give me any idea of whats been done to the ignition?.......
 
It basically has the duraspark only better how many wires are coming out of the dizzy if there are only three the computer is doing nothing if it is still there. The only wires you need are the ignition wires, oil pressure, water temp and the electric choke and maybe the vapor cannister solenoid. The dizzy has a pickup coil 2 wires and a ground and you can get a schematic of the mallory system depending on the module you have
 
it only has 3 wires off the dizzy.the computer is still in the truck..thinking about pulling it out and all wires leading to it.because doesn't it all get replaced with the 3.8 harness for the tbi swap?
 
in the pics that shows the t-stat housing,i have not seen one like it on a b2...i thought the t-stats were down on the lower hose?
 
just got done(for tonight) pulling the interior out.got a rusted floor board to fix,right under the heater core.rest of the floor is perfect.going to keep the carpet out and rhinoline the floors.
 
i do have a question.that tangle of wires under my hood,how many can i get rid of and the truck still operate like it should?
 

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