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84 ranger 88 150 running gear


Because of me not having a body lift, I couldn't get my xfer case tucked up like you and as a result my yoke comes right out behind the xmember so I have to redo mine to clear a front shaft.

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Looks like I will just go buy some original mounts and build some plates.
 
first things first HAGAN I didnt use the stang mounts because they stuck out too far and i would have had to drill new holes and it would have been a pain to do the plates were cake they left plenty of oil pan clearance with the dual sump pan ok so onward with the progress lol ive been putting 10 hr days in on this project for a while now and i finally have the engine trans and tcase in and bolted in had to get a dual sump pan and lift the body 3" this is an absolute must in my opinion it made life easy i notched the holes in the trans crossmember about 3/8 inch towards the passenger side so i could get the tcase away from the frame a little more
 

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Last edited:
you can see the shift tower in the first pic its a little dark though
 

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I see what you are talking about now. I didn't use the Stang mounts either.
 
im having trouble with my clutch master cyl situation the ranger master goes in at an angle and has a remote res the f150 has it built on directly and it was originally mounted straight do you thing my stock ranger master will push the f150 slave and pressure plate ?

more pics to come soon new motors almost put together and ready to drop in ")")")
 
Your stock ranger slave should push an f150 clutch just fine. Mine is an 84 ranger master pushing an 84 f150 clutch with no issues.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
im having trouble with my clutch master cyl situation the ranger master goes in at an angle and has a remote res the f150 has it built on directly and it was originally mounted straight do you thing my stock ranger master will push the f150 slave and pressure plate ?

more pics to come soon new motors almost put together and ready to drop in ")")")

Will the two systems even mate up? My 84 BII has the old style clutch line without the quick disconnect couplers while most M5OD slave cylinders I've seen need a line with a quick disconnect coupler (push sleeve back to disconnect line rather than pushing a pin through). You might need to change the master and clutch line to be compatible with the internal slave on the M5OD, which is what I'm doing on my 84 BII V8 swap.
 

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