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83 Codes?


Choke i meant sorry!

And yea it opens to 8th and doesnt open further unless i have my foot on it to where it moves another 8th from that point...

but even when i pull the choke open with my finger (fully warmed) it dies... so if i fix it all its gonna die on me lol?
 
First off... the purpose of a choke is to make the engine run really rich until it warms up. It helps it start when it's cold.

So knowing this, your carb is probably adjusted really lean so that it runs at all with the choke closed. I think that's why you said it would die when you turn the passenger side mixture screw all the way in...you're essentially just completely starving it of fuel. Opening the choke just makes it worse because you're letting even more air in with very little fuel.

So what I'm saying is that you need to get the choke worked out first. No amount of adjustments on the carb will make it run and drive right with the choke closed.
 
Will do!
Im wondering if its the linkage? or possible the choke pump thing? or somethings stuck i dont know.. im at work and will check it out after..

Thanks again you guys...

I know its hard for you to say... but where should i look first on this? and following the carb rebuild it says 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in! thats what i did! and if the choke is all the way open when warm it dies i did it myself with my finger im not quite understanding! Sorry?
 
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Got a video of it with you putting your figer in the choke to open it (I just want to see what your doing exactly and it might help the people who are trying to help you out.....I want to see this thing run right just as bad as you do)!!!:headbang:
 
Well speak of the devil now we are having problems with my dads truck. Told it ran fine out to my sisters house while delivering her new fridge (I was already there getting the old one out) and when we started up the truck to leave it sounded like it back fired out of the carb. It drives fine but it will not idle it just dies fast. Had to pull into a McDonalds parking lot and adjust the idle so it would stay running and thats when I noticed that its smells like it is burning very rich (and all the suddenly too). We adjusted the carb. two days ago and it ran great until now. So tomorrow we are going to check for vaccum leaks, the timing and adjust the mixture screws....again.
 
O Man sorry to hear about that lemme know what happened?

Me and my buddy are gonna tackle it today i think!
if not soon!

Mine has too backfired out the carb before... frustrating!
and by chance what is your mixture screws set to?
 
I dont know what my dad set them to. He turned them in a little so that at start up it wouldn't be cranking and cranking and cranking until it started and shoot out a cloud of black smoke. Then laying in bed this morning I heard him leavimg for work and from the sounds of it, it didn't even want to run!! I'll find out what he has the mixture screws set to before we start adjusting them. If anybody can tell me what their mixture screws are set to that would be very helpful (at least give me a place to start). I hope the timing got off and that would be it....but doubt it.:annoyed:
 
I went off the tech library manual and it says" Screw them in until lightly stopped then back them out 1 1/2 turns out" its just a general setting a place to start...

See my car is running so bad its hard to set timing becuase it idles high and low hihg and low and the 10 degrees mark moves about every other second = VERY FRUSTRATING
 
This is the idle screw that i had to adjust in the McDonalds parking lot.

DSC01478.jpg
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And here is my dads manual choke. This carb. came this way.

DSC01479.jpg
 
Have you guys read over the Motorcraft 2150 rebuild guide in the tech library? You can skip most of it but read the part about tuning your carb. 1.5 turns out is a starting point. There is no specific place the idle mix screws should be set, it will be different in every car and every carb.
 
For idle adjusting, try this:
Using a propane cylinder (like a plumbing torch) let a little propane into each side of the carb and there should be around a 50RPM gain in speed. If there is a gain way over 50RPM, the carb is too lean; if there is no gain, the carb is too rich.

On the California test, it is done on a dyno and the curb idle has little or no effect.

That screw in the circle above (on a stock carb, with the computer) is for stetting the minimum idle when the motor backs off.
 
Well turns out that when it back fired into the carb. last night it blew of a vacuum plug on the vacuum tree. Put a new plug on it and it runs great now!!
 
This is the vaccum tree (main vaccum).

DSC01486a.jpg


Ya thats my engine im putting in my ranger soon.
 

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