80's Ranger 4x4 for the Trails

[sgtsandman]

That has to be the missing part of the rear suspension lift equation, since the lower block in the stack isn't enough in total to make sense. I'll go ahead and look for the 1,750# set. Do they bolt up the same in terms of "distance"? Should i be looking for some other particular truck's model that has 1750#'ers that are already known to work on the ranger frame?

Bolt up is the same. Just make sure you get ones from the correct year range. Earlier models use a smaller front bolt. I forget when the cut off is. My front bolts are significantly larger than the back two.

Also, 1,750# springs are not a common originally equipped item. So finding some in a junkyard might be a tough task. You may have to buy new.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Damn that sounds nice. Demolish 8 rivets and I’m a free man. I’m sold. Time to shop for all three segments. I’m assuming OEM leaf springs are ok? @85_Ranger4x4 i saw in your build thread you wanted to install an Explorer set of leafs.
What’s the deal with that? I’ve seen it mentioned elsewhere too.
I’m perfectly fine with OEM along with the lift shackles but am just curious what’s up with the explorer design ..?

A little more lift and for better load carrying.

I used the Explorer springs and Belltechs to delete the factory 4wd lift blocks.

I also have a slide in camper (the Skamper thing in my sig) that is kinda heavy and I wanted more spring for that too.

Just get new springs, changing the bushings is a PITA. You have to hole saw out the center and then beat out the outer. And then you probably need to change all the plastic separator pucks too. All of this is after you pull them in the JY too.

 

[eightynine4x4]

These should work. https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/43-781hd.htm
But i'll keep searching for a better price somewhere.
The proper "redo" of my rear suspension lift is amounting to somewhere in the $350-400 ballpark. I have to take things one step at a time with expense as there are a whole bunch of projects like this. Well worth it, as i'll eventually have the truck i've always wanted and hopefully should last some years.
In order of priority in terms of safety driving this thing around town a couple miles at a time at max 35mph, is this project #1? Or would #1 be the whole set of body mounts?

 

[sgtsandman]

That price is about as good as it gets for brand new.

As to which to do first is your call. Which is in worse shape? Both are pretty important. So, whichever is the worst should get done first.

 

[eightynine4x4]

That price is about as good as it gets for brand new.

As to which to do first is your call. Which is in worse shape? Both are pretty important. So, whichever is the worst should get done first.

I think this is priority #2, with #1 being the body mounts overall. The very front left body mount at front of cab is so loose you can tap it by hand and it rattles around. And you saw pics of the bed mounts nearly as loose. Granted i'm not driving this thing at all yet so nothing is truly urgent. But the rear suspension is not actually falling apart, where as the body mounts certainly are.

Found this pair of leaf springs for a good bit cheaper, and they're quite a bit of savings due to being able to have them shipped to a local store a mile down the street. I'm just not positive that they include bushings. But would someone be so evil as to sell these without bushings installed?....

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/leaf-spring/universal-group-leaf-spring-43-781hd/452020_1153694_1029

 

[sgtsandman]

If the picture is accurate, it includes bushings. The price is significantly higher than what General Spring is quoting but that doesn’t factor in shipping. Shipping can be a killer, so the AutoZone springs could be a good deal.

 

[eightynine4x4]

If the picture is accurate, it includes bushings. The price is significantly higher than what General Spring is quoting but that doesn’t factor in shipping. Shipping can be a killer, so the AutoZone springs could be a good deal.

That's strange, i somehow thought i saw somewhere in specs that the auto zone one was the price for a pair. I'll keep scoping but yes the lack of shipping is a big deal.

 

[sgtsandman]

If it was there, I missed it. Pricing for springs is usually only for one even though you need two for a proper job.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Took off and deeply cleaned the throttle body today, picking up some proper CRC Throttle Body / Intake Cleaner instead of using brake cleaner although i was tempted to use what was in the garage. Wasn't sure about spraying down the big rubber air intake hose with this stuff so didn't. Also lubricated the throttle linkage stuff with good old WD40 just because it was easy.
Also decided to embrace an experimental relationship with Sea Foam. Dropped a "high" ratio in the gas tank and the normal dose in the engine. Let it run for 5 minutes and shut it off. Sounding good. The engine is definitely tuning up each step of the way. Once warmed up it was the most stable it's been. Idle is still high at like 1000 RPM, but sounds good. Here's a vid..

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

I loosely theorize that once more of the system is in place the idle might go down. Maybe other sensors need to be replaced.
I've been idling this truck so much lately that i'm starting to get concerned. I know all sorts of imbalances may occur. One is goop under the oil cap, which i now have a little of. No other symptoms of major engine issues, so i think it's from all my idling. With the covid shut downs of the DMV, i'm now waiting for the plates to come in the mail. Once i have them i'll start making circles around town at 15-20 MPH on low traveled back roads just to give it some actual use.

Going to be getting some cheap 83-88 left and right fenders soon. Definitely doing a nose swap and that's the first step. As far as i know they bolt up and only have interference with the nose stuff and not the frame/body.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Took off and deeply cleaned the throttle body today, picking up some proper CRC Throttle Body / Intake Cleaner instead of using brake cleaner although i was tempted to use what was in the garage. Wasn't sure about spraying down the big rubber air intake hose with this stuff so didn't. Also lubricated the throttle linkage stuff with good old WD40 just because it was easy.
Also decided to embrace an experimental relationship with Sea Foam. Dropped a "high" ratio in the gas tank and the normal dose in the engine. Let it run for 5 minutes and shut it off. Sounding good. The engine is definitely tuning up each step of the way. Once warmed up it was the most stable it's been. Idle is still high at like 1000 RPM, but sounds good. Here's a vid..

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

I loosely theorize that once more of the system is in place the idle might go down. Maybe other sensors need to be replaced.
I've been idling this truck so much lately that i'm starting to get concerned. I know all sorts of imbalances may occur. One is goop under the oil cap, which i now have a little of. No other symptoms of major engine issues, so i think it's from all my idling. With the covid shut downs of the DMV, i'm now waiting for the plates to come in the mail. Once i have them i'll start making circles around town at 15-20 MPH on low traveled back roads just to give it some actual use.

Going to be getting some cheap 83-88 left and right fenders soon. Definitely doing a nose swap and that's the first step. As far as i know they bolt up and only have interference with the nose stuff and not the frame/body.

Radiator support and front frame where the bumper mounts is different in addition to the obvious bits (grille, front fenders, hood etc)

Second gen has bigger wheel openings so you may have more tire fitment issues too.

 

[sgtsandman]

Took off and deeply cleaned the throttle body today, picking up some proper CRC Throttle Body / Intake Cleaner instead of using brake cleaner although i was tempted to use what was in the garage. Wasn't sure about spraying down the big rubber air intake hose with this stuff so didn't. Also lubricated the throttle linkage stuff with good old WD40 just because it was easy.
Also decided to embrace an experimental relationship with Sea Foam. Dropped a "high" ratio in the gas tank and the normal dose in the engine. Let it run for 5 minutes and shut it off. Sounding good. The engine is definitely tuning up each step of the way. Once warmed up it was the most stable it's been. Idle is still high at like 1000 RPM, but sounds good. Here's a vid..

Brake cleaner should have been ok for the throttle body but good call on the rubber intake tube. In general, it is better to go with the specifically designed product if you aren't sure.

As far as the Seafoam, some have had good experiences with the product and others have not. Me personally, I use Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner for in the tank. For the intake, I get the aerosol version of Seafoam and spray the crap out of the throttle body with the engine running. There is less chance of accidentally hyrdro locking the engine than using the liquid Seafoam through the brake booster hose method. I've never had a bad experience doing it but there is something uncomfortable about doing it fast enough to stall the engine and then just let it sit for a bit before firing it back up.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Here’s something I’ve been also been wondering about ..
I removed the sun visor and have it stored and may or may not install it again.
There were are a bunch of these short hex screws mounting it, which I replaced after taking off the visor, mostly out of concern that I didn’t know what the drainage system is like in the roof and body so didn’t want to cause issues during rain.
How does drainage work inside? And more importantly, are these screw holes DIY’d or did Ford offer cabs with visors?
If I leave them wide open do I send water where it wasn’t meant to be, leading to eventual rust rot? Or does it end up channeling down to the same drainage?
If I decide to keep them for after the paint job, I’ll use rubber seal washers and fresh black screws with low profile heads. I might regret bondo-ing right over them and losing the option to mount a visor for a particular trip or something.

 

[Curious Hound]

Drainage inside the roof either drips on your head or runs into little hidden places to cause rust. You want those holes sealed up really good.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Drainage inside the roof either drips on your head or runs into little hidden places to cause rust. You want those holes sealed up really good.

Are they OEM? Could I shop around for other visors/accessories that match the 89 ford cab and these holes are the same? If not, I might just go ahead and nullify them.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Not oem.