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$6k quote for head gaskets on 4.0 SOHC?


I've learned over the years that common sense helps out a lot and that's a good idea on labeling everything. One of main concerns someone mentioned already is manifold studs. As rust free as my truck is they still look like they would break if you looked at them wrong haha. I'm sure they are even worse on the donor truck that most likely has lived in Maine it's whole life. When those break are they easy to remove or do they need to be drilled out usually?

Looking the service manual, it looks like you only need 4 "special" tools and none of them are really special. Also the manual has step by step instructions for me to follow. Worse comes to worse my neighbor is an old fellow who is a retired mechanic and he has ALL the tools and knowledge I just hate to bother him too much. I've seen him doing a few engine swaps in his driveway for people in the past though....
Amazon sells the tool kit. I think the brand name is OTC.

Depending on how the studs break, you may be able to use a stud removal tool, drill out the center and use an extractor tool, or weld a nut onto the stud and wrench it out. You will want the stud tool to install the new ones or double nut the stud and wrench them in. It might not be a bad idea to have nut extractor sockets since the nuts are probably going to be less than nut shaped.
 
The studs can be handled after the engine is out right?

This is going to be an adventure I bet haha. Would a 1 ton engine hoist do the truck? By chance there is a new Pittsburgh 1 ton engine hoist with load leveler for sale in my town for $200 and the ad says he'll even deliver it.

Also, Id be doing this in my grass yard. Will it be doable since the engine hoist isn't going to roll very well on grass
 
The studs can be handled after the engine is out right?

This is going to be an adventure I bet haha. Would a 1 ton engine hoist do the truck? By chance there is a new Pittsburgh 1 ton engine hoist with load leveler for sale in my town for $200 and the ad says he'll even deliver it.

Also, Id be doing this in my grass yard. Will it be doable since the engine hoist isn't going to roll very well on grass

Yes to the first, yes to the second, maybe on the third. You will want some plywood for the engine puller to roll on. Otherwise, it's going to sink into the dirt. You will want 3/4" plywood and not OSB.
 
The truck still drives, correct - take it to a muffler shop and pay them to remove (and lightly replace) the studs for the exhaust pipes. They have the tools (heat/impacts) it remove bolts which have rusted/heat soaked on for 14 years.

And if they break them, they fix it - that's what you pay for.

All of us were new to pulling an engine before we did our first.
 
Thanks no it's not a problem if they break I can fix them when I have the engine out. Truck still drives I guess but I just started it and it missed real bad on start up and now makes a random clicking noise at idle and constant clicking noise when revving the engine a bit. Is this a misfire?
 
I took a video but can't upload videos on here?
 
Sure soybds like chains rattling to me.

Is noise coming from the front of the left head and /or rear of the right head?
 
I agree it doesn't sound good whatever it is. Couldn't tell, I didn't want to let it run too long. That would be a hell of a thing. After everything else the chain tensioners go out.
 
Kinda sounds like a worn chain guide and or missing the nylon rub material.
 
Just crazy that it would happen at this time. This thing is driving me nuts spending every waking minute googling trying to figure out how to fix it. I'm about to go finance a new one.
 
Get a winter beater...

That takes all the pressure off of things.
 
For sure, get a late 90s early 2k camry 4 cylinder for while you work on the truck. Good gas mileage and runs forever while being super cheap to buy
 

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