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5r55e compatible years


Ohhnulix

Active Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
40
City
Dade city
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Automatic
My 02 sohc 4.0 needs a transmission, I’ve been looking around and I found someone Parting out a 98 explorer ohv , I’ve seen some people say that the transmissions are still compatible, anyone have any experience swapping between years like that? I know there’s a 1 bolt difference between the sohc and the ohv but it should still work, I just don’t know about electrically
 
No not compatible, but the same model 5R55E

In 2001 and up Rangers, Ford added ISS(intermediate shaft speed) sensor and an OSS(output shaft speed) sensor to the outside of the 5R55E's(and 5R44Es as well)
So your 2002 computer NEEDS the inputs from these 2 new sensors, they can't be retrofitted to older 5R55E cases

So you need a 2001-2011 5R55E from a 4.0l, also needs to match 2WD or 4x4 as there is no conversion possible

One heads up, I have read that some 2001 and up Rangers had the 5R55W transmission(never seen it myself), easy way to tell is there is no dipstick on this model
The wiring is different than 5R55E so connector won't work/fit


Not that it helps you but a 1995 to 2000 Ranger can use 1995-2011 trans because it's computer doesn't need the ISS or OSS sensors, they are just left unhooked, but can't go the other way
 
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Hope I'm not high jacking this thread, but concerning the 5R44E vs. the 5R55E, I have a conflict identifying which one is in my Ranger. 2004, 4.0L, Ranger Edge, 4x4. I am the original owner, it has 90,000 miles. I want to put a transmission pan on there with a drain plug so we can drain and replace the transmission fluid. I called the parts desk in Elk Grove, CA (with my VIN), the guy said I have the 5R44E transmission. From what I'm reading, I should have the 5R55E, is that right ? There is a dipstick in it. I thought mine should have the 5R55E, because it's 4.0L, and 4x4 (four wheel drive). Hmmm, any information is much appreciated. :)
 
Hope I'm not high jacking this thread, but concerning the 5R44E vs. the 5R55E, I have a conflict identifying which one is in my Ranger. 2004, 4.0L, Ranger Edge, 4x4. I am the original owner, it has 90,000 miles. I want to put a transmission pan on there with a drain plug so we can drain and replace the transmission fluid. I called the parts desk in Elk Grove, CA (with my VIN), the guy said I have the 5R44E transmission. From what I'm reading, I should have the 5R55E, is that right ? There is a dipstick in it. I thought mine should have the 5R55E, because it's 4.0L, and 4x4 (four wheel drive). Hmmm, any information is much appreciated. :)

Yes, the 4.0l OHV or SOHC engines used the 5R55E model, the "55" means it has a larger Overdrive drum so can handle up to 550ft/lb torque

The 5R44E was used on 4cyl engines and 3.0l Vulcan V6s and can handle 440ft/lb torque

Yes, all the "E" models have a dipstick
5R55W don't have a dipstick, also a different wiring connector, usually found in Explorers not Rangers

The "5R" models were changed in 2001, and up, Ford added 2 sensors on the outside of transmission, the ISS and OSS
The 2001 and up computers need these sensors, so you can NOT swap in a 5R that doesn't have them, i.e. 1997-2000

However a 1995-2000 Ranger CAN use 2001-2011 5R and just leave the 2 extra sensors unhooked

All transmissions, manual or automatic, are engine specific and "drive" specific
2WD or 4x4 have different tail shafts so transmissions are not interchangeable, even if the same "model number"
Bellhousing is specific to the engine, so a 2.3l 5R44E won't bolt to a 3.0l engine, even though both transmissions are the same 5R44E model


4R..E and 5R..E are the same transmissions internally respecting the 44 and 55 differences
4R denotes computer shifting is 4-speed
5R denotes computer shifting is 5-speed

So a 2004 5R55E transmission in a 1996 4.0l Ranger would act as a 4-speed because of 1996 computer shifting
The 1996 came with a 4R55E
There is no extra "gear" in a 5R, there is in the way the computer uses shift solenoids
 
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Thank you! After reading more on TRS Tech Library, I found a page that pointed me to the Compliance sticker on the driver's side door post. Mine does indeed exhibit a "D" underneath the TR character. I guess that's another indicator that my transmission is the 5R55E. I appreciate your input, after reading it carefully, it's all right there. You my Friend, are a "Steely Eyed Ranger Man". :)
 
I bought a 5R55E transmission pan with a drain plug in it. Before I remove the stock pan, where can I drill a small hole in the stock pan, then drain the fluid before I remove the pan, so I don't make a huge mess ? I don't want to hit anything, just drill in through the pan enough, for a drain hole. Then, as I said, I'm replacing the stock pan with an aftermarket pan w/drain plug . Thanks for any help you can offer. :)
:D
 
Can handpump several qts of ATF from the DipTube; helps minimize mess when dropping TrannyPan.
 
Drill a hole in the side, in same place where the new pans drain plug is

Drain plug must be on the side of the new pan, if its on the bottom then its NOT a drain plug, its a refill and level check valve, used on 5R's that didn't have dipsticks, W/S/N models, Rangers had the the E model with dipstick
 
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RonD, this after market pan that I'm going to put on my Ranger with 5R55E transmission (2004,Edge, 4.0L, 4WD), has a drain plug build in right at the bottom, the low point in the pan (please see attached photo). What I meant was, is it safe to drill a tiny hole in the stock pan (the one that's on the truck now, original), just through the bottom at the same point, so I can let the fluid drain out (as not to make a mess). I won't be using the stock pan any more, so as long as I don't damage anything when I drill, it seems it would help to mitigate the mess when removing the original pan. Isn't there a round collection tube (1-1/2 inch diameter) that sits on the bottom of the filter unit, that collects fluid from the pan at the low point there? I was thinking it would be safe just to drill through there, enough to drain the old fluid. What do you think? I know the other fellow responded that I could hand pump some out through the dipstick tube, but I would rather drain it (since I have a replacement pan). I think the Dorman pan that I bought is about 1/8 thick or so, I would just drill through enough to get through the thin sheet metal pan.
 

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Use a step drill bit, so you don't push bit too far in, and you can do it any where you want
Or tape wrap the drill bit down low to minimize penetration, pan metal is very thin
Google: 5r55e pan off images

You will see where its OK to drill, fluid will sling off the drill when it penetrates the pan, so heads up(eyes closed, lol)

Ever wonder why oil pan drains are not on the bottom of oil pan?
So they can't be damaged by road debris, or anything high passing under the vehicle

Side drain would be better in my pinion, as trans sits even lower

Reason automatics don't have drain plugs like oil pans do is because you don't need to drain trans fluid that often, 100k miles, 150k on some models
Oil change every 3k-4k miles

Automatic trans Drain plugs are just another leak point, and cost, for use every 10 years or so

You can get deep pans, for better cooling, with side drains: http://www.lyonsperformance.com/ima...ansmission-pans/ford-pans/9614-2_cast_lgl.jpg
 
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Perfect ! Thanks for your input. I will use a step drill, just go in enough to create a drain hole. I won't be using the old stock pan anymore, just want to reduce the mess when I take it off. I appreciate your thoughts on this ! 🤓. I am the original owner of this 2004 Ranger Edge. In 18 years, I've only had to replace one AC relay fuse, and the thermostat housing (plastic) split open. I put an aluminum one on to replace it. Tires, and a few tail light bulbs. This thing is amazing, the reliability and dependability is beyond reproach. Otherwise, I change the oil every 3000 miles and it has served me well. I want to be able to drain and fill the transmission fluid on a regular basis, and the transmission pan drain plug will make that more doable. :pray:
 
I have a 98 Explorer EB version. Yes, I realize I'm on a Ranger forum but your conversation is way more detailed than any place else I've seen, so I figured I get with the big boys & get some knowledge! Hope I'm not invading your space too much but think I can also lend a hand in a different way.

I have a 98 Explorer EB version with a SOHC 4.0L V6 & a 5R55E trans 4x4. I also have a 97 Limited Explorer with the same set up; 4.0L SOHC V6 4x4. From what I've found, this truck has the same tranny & TC in it as the 98.

I see some of you talk about the Tech Library. Is that the 1 here on this forum or the 1 from the government site? Just trying to make sure I have an exact swap.

Symptoms; For a while, when I'm driving no matter the speed, I would get a spinning/grinding noise that sounded like something was trying to engage then it would stop. I thought it was the starter or the starter relay that was either shorting out & trying to spin or jus the solenoid going bad. I pulled the starter relay after I started the car & the noise still happened. For a little while I was also getting binding in the steeling when I turned. The switch on the dash was set for AUTO but the binding still occurred. I have the 97 donor can, so I pulled the TC Module out & put it in the 98 & it stopped binding, so that was fixed.

the other day I was on a sharp incline & went to shift into reberse, & all I got was grinding & no reverse. This was right after the screw from the shift level fell out & hit my foot. I replaced that bolts & realized how loose the shifter had been for a while, noting that that screw was loosening more that whole time. Nice & tight now. All the numbers & letter on the selector indication for that lever matched up well, but reverse was still just grinding & no reverse. I also lost the Parking Paw as the car would just roll after stopping in park.

Checking the trans fluid, it still looks & smells good; still has the slight red color & smells fine.

If I have to, I'm pretty sure the whole tranny & TC can be swapped from the 97 to the 98, but if this is something les strenuous than doing a full swap, & might be just a few parts, I'd much rather do that & save my back doing this on a gravel driveway.

Can anyone tell me if they've had or seen these issues before & what they did to correct them?

Thanks in advance! You guys all seem to have so much more knowledge & experience than other forums! I appreciate you helping me, if you can!
 

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