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5R55E 1st - 2nd gear issue


RedRanger2006

Well-Known Member
Firefighter
Joined
Nov 27, 2024
Messages
56
City
Ontario
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Automatic
I'm having issues with lagging from 1st to 2nd gear at higher rpms, when im just rolling through the gears it shifts fine, but trying too speed up quickly in 1st once it starts shifting it lags for a couple seconds and then completes the shift... maybe shift solenoids? EPC solenoid? Anybody else had this issue and fixed it?
 
Isn't that normal and how it's programmed? Most transmissions I have driven, even the older ones, it holds the shifts longer if you are putting a higher load on the engine. If you floor it, it will probably never shift into overdrive until you let up on the pedal some.
 
Isn't that normal and how it's programmed? Most transmissions I have driven, even the older ones, it holds the shifts longer if you are putting a higher load on the engine. If you floor it, it will probably never shift into overdrive until you let up on the pedal some.
I dont believe soo, as it only happens inbetween the 1st - 2nd gear shift, all other gears will run through smooth as butter at 3000+ rpms, it lags inbetween the shift from 1st too 2nd, it starts the shift, then almost seems like half way through the shift it surges for a second or two and then will Finnish and drop into 2nd.
 
Isn't that normal and how it's programmed? Most transmissions I have driven, even the older ones, it holds the shifts longer if you are putting a higher load on the engine. If you floor it, it will probably never shift into overdrive until you let up on the pedal some.
It's not that 1st gear is revving out high, it's when it is acctually shifting, it starts shifting then delays for a couple seconds and then will shift into second
 
before you get too involved remember your 5 speed auto transmission only has 4 forward gears.
computer software is what creates the 5th gear.

there is a big gap in ratios between 1st and 2nd actual metal gears.
while still in 1st the computer engages the overdrive which creates another gear ratio between 1st and 2nd.
then it disengages overdrive and engages the actual 2nd which is now called 3rd.

did it always act this way? same hot or cold?
 
before you get too involved remember your 5 speed auto transmission only has 4 forward gears.
computer software is what creates the 5th gear.

there is a big gap in ratios between 1st and 2nd actual metal gears.
while still in 1st the computer engages the overdrive which creates another gear ratio between 1st and 2nd.
then it disengages overdrive and engages the actual 2nd which is now called 3rd.

did it always act this way? same hot or cold?
Some days it doesn't do it at all, but most of the time it does, only when trying too go through 1st gear quickly there is the pause inbetween the shift too 2nd, when just rolling through the gears normally it shifts fine.
 
that's about as far as I can go with auto transmissions. hang in there for a while until the real "experts" arrive.

I've replace the valve body in my 2000, but I'm not quite up to giving real advice on autos.
 
So, I’m going to throw this out and you can do what you want with this information…

Like the A4LD that the 4R44/4R55/5R55 transmissions were based on, they carry on some similar things, like the #2 and #3 bands do need adjusted from time to time and the reverse servo O-rings can leak. So as long as the fluid isn’t burnt in it, I’d say at minimum, fluid and filter change, adjust the bands, throw new O-rings and a gasket at the reverse servo. Sounds potentially intimidating, but it’s really not hard and the worst part is it’s a messy job. That may or may not change your performance complaint, but it’s still a good move.

My 92 (it’s an A4LD, but like mentioned, a lot of this stuff is similar), it had mushy shifts and such. I did a shift kit and some valve body work, plus what I listed above. Absolutely massive improvement. I wouldn’t hesitate to do that to another transmission, shifts were firm without being jarring and I went nearly maximum on the optional things to improve performance. I’d probably just do max everything on the next one I do.
 
So, I’m going to throw this out and you can do what you want with this information…

Like the A4LD that the 4R44/4R55/5R55 transmissions were based on, they carry on some similar things, like the #2 and #3 bands do need adjusted from time to time and the reverse servo O-rings can leak. So as long as the fluid isn’t burnt in it, I’d say at minimum, fluid and filter change, adjust the bands, throw new O-rings and a gasket at the reverse servo. Sounds potentially intimidating, but it’s really not hard and the worst part is it’s a messy job. That may or may not change your performance complaint, but it’s still a good move.

My 92 (it’s an A4LD, but like mentioned, a lot of this stuff is similar), it had mushy shifts and such. I did a shift kit and some valve body work, plus what I listed above. Absolutely massive improvement. I wouldn’t hesitate to do that to another transmission, shifts were firm without being jarring and I went nearly maximum on the optional things to improve performance. I’d probably just do max everything on the next one I do.
Adjusting the front band, is that something I can do with the transmission still bolted up too the truck?
 
Adjusting the front band, is that something I can do with the transmission still bolted up too the truck?
All of the work I listed can be done with the trans in the truck.

There is a thing in the tech archives on here that explains band adjustment for the 5R55.

The band for 1st/reverse is not adjustable, but IIRC, it is controlled by the reverse servo.
 
All of the work I listed can be done with the trans in the truck.

There is a thing in the tech archives on here that explains band adjustment for the 5R55.

The band for 1st/reverse is not adjustable, but IIRC, it is controlled by the reverse servo.
I just did some digging into the band adjustments, 2nd gear in the 5r55e is acctually a overdrive gear for 1st, and says too adjust the overdrive band for "2nd gear" slipping , 10ftlbs in and 2 full turns out. I'll let you know if that fixes my issue!
 
So, I’m going to throw this out and you can do what you want with this information…

Like the A4LD that the 4R44/4R55/5R55 transmissions were based on, they carry on some similar things, like the #2 and #3 bands do need adjusted from time to time and the reverse servo O-rings can leak. So as long as the fluid isn’t burnt in it, I’d say at minimum, fluid and filter change, adjust the bands, throw new O-rings and a gasket at the reverse servo. Sounds potentially intimidating, but it’s really not hard and the worst part is it’s a messy job. That may or may not change your performance complaint, but it’s still a good move.

My 92 (it’s an A4LD, but like mentioned, a lot of this stuff is similar), it had mushy shifts and such. I did a shift kit and some valve body work, plus what I listed above. Absolutely massive improvement. I wouldn’t hesitate to do that to another transmission, shifts were firm without being jarring and I went nearly maximum on the optional things to improve performance. I’d probably just do max everything on the next one I do.
Could you give me a bit more info on how too approach doing the reverse servo o rings and gasket, I'm pretty sure that's what my issue is.
 
Could you give me a bit more info on how too approach doing the reverse servo o rings and gasket, I'm pretty sure that's what my issue is.
I have some video that I need to get stitched together and uploaded from doing my A4LD. Had a variety of problems trying to get that done. Currently I don’t have any transmissions apart and I don’t know where any pics might be (I’ve unfortunately lost some stuff).

Pan has to come down to do the reverse servo stuff. IMHO, I’d throw a TransGo shift kit and a one-piece separator plate/gasket at the valve body while it’s apart just on principle. But that’s optional stuff. When you pull the pan down, the reverse servo is under a square-ish plate held in by four 10mm bolts. It’s spring loaded and there is fluid in the bore, so you’ll have to hold pressure against it while you pull the bolts and prepare for fluid to come out. Gasket seals that plate and there’s a pair of O-rings on the servo. Round O-rings are acceptable but square cut ones are the upgrade.
 
The earlier versions of this trans suffered from what you are describing a lot, but that was mostly resolved by the time they got to 06, but it is still possible that is the issue you are having - the gasket on the valve body was not strong enough and it would blow out a spot that was related to providing the pressure needed to shift to 2nd gear. If you replaced the valve body (the gasket is glued to the valve body from the factory) right away as soon as you had the symptoms, you could save the trans, but most people lived with a mushy 1-2 shift until they just wore out the 2nd gear clutch/band so they needed a rebuild.
 

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