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5-speed shifting question


nickname23

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2024
Messages
130
City
Texas
Vehicle Year
2004
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
My credo
Did partial rebuild in the street 3 days, shop takes 3 days. Don't need a Shop
Trying to double clutch is difficult, engine rpm can sometimes blip even though I'm not moving my foot.

Usually taking the time to clutch, neutral, clutch, rev and select gear is smooth but during low speeds can intermittently be an issue in 2nd gear, even when it bites there isn't much power for a second.

1st gear is flawless unless it gets out of alignment.

No leaks or overheating, am I just not there yet with the footwork?

Gotten to the point where I know the dropoff into upshifting and downshifting the correct rpm but the rpm intermittently rises.

Saying I'm hitting 2k in 2nd gear, want to upshift into 3rd, not all the time but sometimes when I hold the gas steady and put the clutch all the way it hits 3k on its own.

My foot for the gas never moved.

Possibly another side affect of my leaking intake and lean condition but this was the case before the issue popped up.
 
When your in neutral you don't have any drag on the motor, no friction.
When you're in gear you have drag/friction on the motor.
No drag/friction easier rotation for the motor therefore higher RPMs.

I don't know if I'm saying this the correct way but that's what I get out of it
 
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My experience with the M5OD is they smooth out and drive better somewhere around 200k... but I have over 25 years and at least 200k miles driving M5OD's so I'm extremely used to how they operate, I don't double clutch at all... they sometimes grind especially into second but I think I would know if it was an issue by now... heck once I drove about 400 miles home without using the clutch other than starting from a stop when the master cylinder went out where I got one clutch cycle before it would stick disengaged for like 30 seconds...
 
I’d recommend just shifting like normal people. Like Doug was trying to say, as soon as you get the clutch pushed in far enough to disengage transmission from engine, the engine becomes unloaded and rpms naturally rise unless you back off the throttle. It takes time to get both feet coordinated. Just practice and before you know it, shifting will become second nature. Skip the double shifting. That’s for heavily loaded big rigs.
 
Saying I'm hitting 2k in 2nd gear, want to upshift into 3rd, not all the time but sometimes when I hold the gas steady and put the clutch all the way it hits 3k on its own.
There's your problem, you're supposed to take your foot off the gas when up shifting.

And double clutching a transmission with synchro's is wasted effort and you risk breaking expensive parts.
 
Yeah, I wouldn’t bother double clutching.

Also, the 3.0 doesn’t build real power until something like 2,800 RPM. Red line is somewhere around 6,000 or so but the factory rev limiter should be around 5,500. Power band is something like 2,800-4,800, so if you’re shifting before 3k, you’re shifting early because it hasn’t made power yet.
 
Good place to shift 3.0l is right around 3500rpm. But if I’m pushing it hard, I’ll wind it up to 4500 before I shift.
 
Good place to shift 3.0l is right around 3500rpm. But if I’m pushing it hard, I’ll wind it up to 4500 before I shift.
Yep, similar power band on my 2.3L daily driver (but yes I know, 20 less HP) so normally I shift at 3k unless I'm pulling onto a highway and need more then I'll get up near 5k but staying under 4k has resulted in better mileage... I gained almost 1mpg just changing habits slightly... I still get frustrated with people that have 300hp that are slowing me down so I must be ok with 100hp...
 
I dont do that double clutch junk on mine either. My 3.0 and 5 speed has been all across texas without issue, no grinding or anything. Just shift like normal.


But, if you want to make it feel better, put an aftermarket shifter assembly on it so the throw is cut down.

20240821_050031.jpg
 
I dont do that double clutch junk on mine either. My 3.0 and 5 speed has been all across texas without issue, no grinding or anything. Just shift like normal.


But, if you want to make it feel better, put an aftermarket shifter assembly on it so the throw is cut down.

View attachment 125863
Which shifter brand
 
There's your problem, you're supposed to take your foot off the gas when up shifting.

And double clutching a transmission with synchro's is wasted effort and you risk breaking expensive parts.

Good to know, seems like the truck is much more peppy at 3k.

I'm just gonna give up double clutching it just feels weird, the whole design functions better when you slowly wind up the engine anyway.
 
Yep, similar power band on my 2.3L daily driver (but yes I know, 20 less HP) so normally I shift at 3k unless I'm pulling onto a highway and need more then I'll get up near 5k but staying under 4k has resulted in better mileage... I gained almost 1mpg just changing habits slightly... I still get frustrated with people that have 300hp that are slowing me down so I must be ok with 100hp...

Or driving the speed limit and they want to hit that red light only for you to just roll through with no breaking 😂
 
Yeah, most people are shifting way too early, even with engines that develop their power lower in the RPM band. I think it's a worry about burning more fuel than they have to, not realizing they are burning more fuel lugging the engine because they shifted early. Like mentioned above, 3,000 - 3,500 on a 3.0 is a better RPM to shift at and won't negatively effect mpg. It might actually improve some.

As far as the double clutching, that is really only needed on transmissions that don't have syncronizers in the transmission. Outside of heavy and some medium trucks, the majority of transmissions have synchronizers in them, after a certain date, which goes back pretty far. Like 1950s or 1960s time frame.
 

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