5.0 Ranger Running Rich

[shr3dd3r 09]

I just got my 5.0 ranger running again after 2.5 years of it being in storage, and I'm getting the following codes: p1132, p1152, p0172, and p0175. Basically it is running rich on both banks, and it has a hesitation/buck when I roll into the throttle and an occasional stumble at idle. I reset the codes and the p0172 and p0175 came back so far.

Here are my specs:

5.0 Engine and computer from 2000 Mountaineer

EGR delete

M5ODR2 transmission with all auto codes deleted with SCT chip

No rear cats and rear O2s off.


It's a little nerve racking pulling into traffic when it has a hesitation like this. I'm afraid it's going to stall out. What should I check? Off the top of my head I can only think of cleaning the MAF. I have an ultra gauge so I can post data here if need be. I just don't know what I'd be looking for there...

 

[hoosier1104]

Is it old fuel? Check your plugs, fuel pressure, air filter, test your coils, clean your MAF, double check your tune because if the battery died it is a slight possibility it reset to the stock tune causing it to run rich on both banks.

Start there and post up the results.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

The fuel is fresh and I just had my chip sent off to have PATS deleted and updates for deleting rear O2s. So the tune should be okay. If not I'd be getting automatic transmission codes as well. I will check the other things you mentioned.

 

[RonD]

After sitting over 2 years a fuel injector could be sticking open from dried out gasoline varnish.

Try "Clear Flooded Engine test" to see if fuel is leaking in when it shouldn't.
Turn key on
Press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down all the way(this tells computer to enter Clear Flooded engine routine, fuel injector pulses will be shut off, spark is left on)

Leaving gas pedal all the way down, crank engine, it should not start or fire at all, no fuel should be flowing into the intake.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

After sitting over 2 years a fuel injector could be sticking open from dried out gasoline varnish.

Try "Clear Flooded Engine test" to see if fuel is leaking in when it shouldn't.
Turn key on
Press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down all the way(this tells computer to enter Clear Flooded engine routine, fuel injector pulses will be shut off, spark is left on)

Leaving gas pedal all the way down, crank engine, it should not start or fire at all, no fuel should be flowing into the intake.

I will try that. So if it starts then it's likely a leaking injector? If so can I try some seafoam in the tank to see if it can clean the injectors?

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

I tried the "Clear Flooded Engine Test" and it behaved exactly as you said it would. It would crank but not start or fire at all. I haven't had a chance to check anything else yet, but I did pour a 16 oz. can of seafoam into my gas tank. I had it on the road a bit and it still runs a little rough (not bad) and has a hesitation. Still throwing the same two codes. I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor soon and report back.

 

[cdxhizors]

Temp sensor issues? Do you have access to a scan tool to see what the computer sees as the temp? With the truck cool and off idle air temp and coolant temp should be within a few degrees. Sensor may be thinking it's really cold, thus dumping tons of fuel. My Old f250 had a bad temp sensor and it was reading -88 or something stupid.

 

[RonD]

I tried the "Clear Flooded Engine Test" and it behaved exactly as you said it would. It would crank but not start or fire at all. I haven't had a chance to check anything else yet, but I did pour a 16 oz. can of seafoam into my gas tank. I had it on the road a bit and it still runs a little rough (not bad) and has a hesitation. Still throwing the same two codes. I'll try cleaning the MAF sensor soon and report back.

Good, no fuel leaks into intake.
Just FYI that Clear Flooded engine routine is in all fuel injection computers, not just Fords.
Impress your friends........."hey Dave why won't your F..ing car start, geeze"
Save some money buying a used car, "hey this thing won't start, what are trying to sell me?????"...........lowball the price
lol

Yes, could be air temp sensor is reading too cold so computer is running it richer than it should.
2000 should have 6 wire MAF sensor, so the air temp sensor is in there as well, cleaning will help both.

Have you pulled a spark plug yet to see if it is running rich?

 

[hoosier1104]

I have some 26 lbs injectors and a M90 S/C sitting in the garage if you are interested.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Good, no fuel leaks into intake.
Just FYI that Clear Flooded engine routine is in all fuel injection computers, not just Fords.
Impress your friends........."hey Dave why won't your F..ing car start, geeze"
Save some money buying a used car, "hey this thing won't start, what are trying to sell me?????"...........lowball the price
lol

Yes, could be air temp sensor is reading too cold so computer is running it richer than it should.
2000 should have 6 wire MAF sensor, so the air temp sensor is in there as well, cleaning will help both.

Have you pulled a spark plug yet to see if it is running rich?

I haven't pulled one yet. I'll try cleaning the MAF, checking my ultra gauge for IAT vs ECT at cold start, and pulling a plug. Might not get to it until this weekend or early next week. I'll let you know what I find out.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

So I checked my IAT vs. ECT on cold start and they both read exactly the same. As it warmed up the ECT climbed steadily and the IAT stayed mostly the same. I also got P1351 and P1299 (cylinder overheat and ignition fault??) codes within 30 seconds of startup. Still running rough and the tailpipe is literally dripping raw fuel on the ground...

Also the two codes came on way before the engine even began to warm up, so I don't know how it could think it's overheating. The temp sensors, as I stated, seemed to be reading normally.

I'm wondering if my PCM is to blame and I need a new one. I suspected it before a couple years ago when I had driveability issues similar to this but never replaced it.

 

[RonD]

Because it has been sitting awhile I would go thru the engine Grounds.
Follow the battery "-" cable(s), loosen and make sure connections are clean and dry.
Look for an engine to firewall ground strap, usually back of drivers head to firewall, this is the main ground connection for all the cab stuff, including computer.

No way I know of to test a "semi-working" computer, unless there was no CEL at key on, or you were getting oddball codes, which P1351 and P1299 are, lol.
So you could be right about computer having issues

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Are you talking about the ground connection right next to the computer that goes directly into the harness, or a separate strap that goes from the firewall to a stud on the engine?

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Never mind. You answered that haha.

 

[shr3dd3r 09]

Looks like I'm missing my firewall to engine block ground... Wonder where it went?