4x4 without front axles

[don4331]

@vigness : You would be looking for a Jeep Cherokee (XJ) from mid '85 through 2001, 2 wheel drive. You're looking for part 10 (2x).

I originally assumed Edge Rangers were set up this way, until @adms08 set me straight - that Ford made a 3rd knuckle which was hybrid of 4wd and 2wd that allowed both the torsion bar spring and the 2wd hub.

But as @Uncle Gump reiterated, if you don't plan on fixing the front axle, pull the 1/2 shafts apart and just insert the outer cv hub. (I'd undo the 3 bolts for the axle and 6 at the transfer case and reduce weight of truck by a hundred pounds or more for the axle and front driveshaft).

 

[pjtoledo]

those "hybrid" knuckles are used on 2wd Sport Tracks, probably also some Explorers.
the 2001 knuckles from a Sport Track are also set up for 12" rotors
I briefly had a set on my 2000 Ranger last spring.

 

[vigness]

Thanks guys. I'll do some hunting in that stub shaft.

Getting the front diff out is two fold. First, it's having problems, and second, I had a rather substantial front push bumper made with tow tabs. I imagine they would off set each other and eliminate some of my mechanical problems.

On one of my other posts, I have a Shifster MK2in development. Once I get the base that fastens to the transfer case cut and tested, I'll post it. So far it's looking good, and would put a manual 'handle' on the hump right at the back edge of the seat allowing me to put the transfer case in neutral with a simple handle movement. So far it's been pretty much off the shelf parts as well.

Of course, I could always just hit the lottery and not need any of the grease under my fingernails.

 

[2Krngr]

As you've found, you absolutely must have the cv shaft or something bolted through the 4wd hub/bearing assembly to compress it together and hold it. Just because it comes assembled as a unit that holds itself together during installation, it's nothing but a pressed in bearing race assembly, it's not mechanically locked in or held captive in anyway without the cv shaft's bolt retaining it together.

I converted to 4wd spindles on a 2wd truck, and used cv axle stubs with the bearing cup lathed off, to essentially creat a bolt from it, this holds the 4wd hub bearing together without an axle in place.

I'm also not sure what the confusion in previous posts were about an Edge Ranger? They are identical to the 4wd frame setups, they just have 2wd spindles installed on them and no front axle.

Installing 2wd Spindles is defiantly an alternative option. They will bolt directly onto your 4wd truck, the only difference is the upper ball joint.. The lower ball joints are the same in 2wd vs 4wd, but you just need to use 2wd upper control arms with the 2wd spindles and they will bolt directly on. (4wd upper ball joint is slightly larger diameter pin that inserts into the spindle than the 2wd ball joint. And the balljoint body diameter that presses into the 4wd arm is a larger diameter than the 2wd ones, so you can't just press a 2wd balljoints into a 4wd arm and vise-versa, and why you need to just use the whole arm.)

You can also just remove the front differential and front drive shaft all together if you are looking to get rid of 4wd completely. There are only 3 bolts holding the front axle in, it comes right out in a few minutes.

Here is one of my trucks with a 2wd to 4wd spindle conversion, nothing was changed other than the upper ball joint for it to work. (fyi the reason for me using 4wd spindles was to have removable brake rotors to do a big brake conversion, and they allow more aftermarket wheels centerbore fitment clearance) More info my build thread in my signature.

 

[4x4prepper]

Okay, I learned something new for today

 

[vigness]

2Krngr, have a question on power steering sectors, don't know if you can answer or not, but I'll give it a shot.

The pump and sector on my '03 extended cab is starting to make some noise. I have a pair of '98 extended cabs I can rob from. One is a 4.0 like my '03, the other is a 3.0. They are both 2WD, the '03 is 4WD. Just looking, the sectors appear pretty close to identical. Is it wishful thinking, or are they swappable assuming a tie rod end change or a slightly different ratio?

 

[2Krngr]

2Krngr, have a question on power steering sectors, don't know if you can answer or not, but I'll give it a shot.

The pump and sector on my '03 extended cab is starting to make some noise. I have a pair of '98 extended cabs I can rob from. One is a 4.0 like my '03, the other is a 3.0. They are both 2WD, the '03 is 4WD. Just looking, the sectors appear pretty close to identical. Is it wishful thinking, or are they swappable assuming a tie rod end change or a slightly different ratio?

When you say sector that generally is a term used for a steering box, not a rack and pinion. I assume you are asking if the rack and pinion will interchange from a 2wd and 4wd. Yes they will, keep in mind there is a rack difference is in regular cab vs supercab but they are interchangeable. The supercab racks have a tighter turning ratio of 2.5 Turns lock-to-lock vs the regular cabs 3 Turns lock-to-lock.

And as I found out doing a 2006 5.0 swap the newer rangers have o-ring quick disconnect rack fittings/lines instead of threaded fittings. So take a look at the front of your rack and make sure which hose connections it has before starting to install the rack. (And when you remove the lines pay attention there is a very small restrictor in the rack under the fitting that may fall out and get lost and you may never notice.

Ford Rangers/Explorers are famous for power steering whine! If your rack is not leaking its likely is just fine still, and you just need a new pump. Keeping the fluid fresh with the correct fluid (Motorcraft XT5QMC Mercon V) in the Ford pumps is important, and the reason many of them whine from never changing the fluid or from shops putting other random improper fluids in it.

 

[vigness]

May just need a drain and refil. It's aa little noisy, and a bit of jerking on turning, but no leaking. Good news is I have 2 donor trucks, both extended cabs. One with the same engine ( 4.0 ), the other is a 3.0.

 

[vigness]

2Krngr, Have a question on the hardness of the axles. I don't have access to a lathe, but I do have access to a bandsaw. Would it be soft enough to cut with a new blade, or am I really looking at getting some lathe work done? Hell. If I knew how they came apart, I'd just separate the outer CV joint.

 

[pjtoledo]

they come apart easy. a hard pull removes the axle shaft from the inner race. then rotate the inner race (sideways) until the balls can be removed.
the balls sort of snap out of the cage.

parts of the outer are induction hardened, I'm not sure a saw blade would work on them. but a cutoff wheel sure would.

 

[vigness]

I was hoping it was pretty saimple. It's been WAY too long since I had a CV joint apart. I'm leaning towadr disassembly rather than cutting just because it gives me reassembly options. Going to pull the U-joint at the front diff. and tie the front axle up to make a test run. I have no idea if I will have a fluid problem if I actually pulled it. Sad to say, I can't remember the last time I checked the fluid in the transfer case either. My memory back in the cobwebs says it's plug on the side of the case. Long before they put that mini dipstick on them.

 

[vigness]

Man, I hate reading this stuff on my phone on the go.

Re-read your post, glad I did about the hardness. I may just separate and put a zip lock over it for a test.

Might test the Shifster MK2 while I'm under there. I've had the pieces, but not the time to assemble and test. If it even goes close to plans, it will put a manual handle in the cab.

 

[vigness]

Pulled the front U-Joint, no problem. Tried to get the rear CV joint off. It is VERY loose, so probably my vibration, but I was afraid I was going to strip the heads off. Just wired the front of the shaft up, will see if the vibration goes away or not. Have to pull up a video on YouTube to see if they mention what size bolt head it is. I've tried both metric and SAE, and they are either looser than I'm comfortable with to put some force on it, or too small and won't go on.

I'm assuming that the transfer case end of the front shaft stays in the transfer case and can't come out. Please verify or correct me on this.

 

[vigness]

UPDATE: Test drive with front shaft disconnected at the front diff eliminated most of the vibration and noise. When I get some cooler weather, going to poop the half shafts out and disconnect the CV joints to take the front drive train out of the equation completely. Still worried about getting the bolts loose on the CV at the transfer case, but at least it's not spinning going down the road now.

 

[Shran]

going to poop the half shafts out

Cannot imagine what that would feel like.