4x4 in reverse

[RonD]

Those part numbers are generic, you need a full number with Ranger Prefix
i.e. 12A650 is the part number for Ford Computer, for ANY model, ANY engine, ANY year, generic

Those part numbers you list are not Ranger specific, i.e. F67Z-12650 would be a 1996 Ranger computer, then it would have a suffix, 2 or 3 digits, which would denote what engine size and transmission type it was for

OSS sensor was 2001 and up only, located top rear, main body of trans
Ford tried a similar sensor on earlier automatics(1997/8 I think) but it was never used, in place and hooked up but not used by the computer, it was up by the bell housing, at top of main body

 

[don4331]

I see that there was a setup of 7.5" rear end and 4.10 final drive. But the 4.10 wasn't offered with the 8.8" isn't that weird.

Door code 97 for 8.8 open, K6 or R7 for 8.8 limited slip all 3 with 4.10 gears - I've 2 Rangers with 8.8s on driveway (Explorer codes are 42 and D2 for open and limited slip 8.8s respectively - wife's Explorer Sport has D2).

Ford Ranger Rear Axles (1983-2011) - The Ranger Station

Rear Axles Used: Ford 7.5-Inch Axle: 1983-2011 Ford Ranger’s without a 4.0L V6 came with the Ford 7.5-Inch Axle. 1998-2011 Ford Ranger Super Cab 4×4’s are frequently equipped with 8.8-Inch axles regardless of engine size. Click HERE for more Ford … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[James Morse]

don4331 that is very interesting thank you for the correction and the link. and congrats on the 4.10. You are saying yours are all 1997's? I was only talking '97's.

RonD you are saying I don't have OSS but that is contrary to my manual, it says it's mounted externally on the trans. It is used to determine shift points, in short.
To me the manual is pretty clear that you might have to change the drive gear on, whichever unit this is that has the drive gear under the yoke in the xfr case.
VSS is also used as input for shifts.
Also has PSOM, programmable module from ABS sensor and that is also used as input for cruise and other things.

So you see my confusion. You're saying OSS was 2001 up but my manual says I have it.
You're saying the gear I'm talking about isn't the one to change, but the manual ssems to imply differently.
I know this is frustrating for you because it seems like I can't understand the simplest things.

I believe I have 5R55E trans which should have the OSS. The 4R appears to not have OSS but that trans would not have come with a 4.0L according to the manual.

As to parts they should be F77Z for '97 Ranger (the prefix). As you told me in the other thread RonD.

 

[RonD]

OSS and ISS sensors were added to outside of 5R transmissions in 2001

Look here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/img_20160415_174052923-jpg.309083/
Toward the front top there is a sensor hole, that was for what was called ISS but was only there for 2 years starting in 1997/8 and never used, sensor was there and the wires but computer never used it

Fords Tech bulletin when one of these years 5Rs needs to be replaced with one that didn't have the hole for this sensor was:
"Cut the two wires and twist them together then seal the connection"
There was an OSS sensor as well at upper rear, seen in picture

Picture here of 2001+ 5R: https://www.transmissionrepaircostg...2018/03/Remanufactured-5R55E-Transmission.jpg

Red plug in the center is ISS sensor hole
Red plug at upper rear is OSS sensor hole

 

[James Morse]

Well that is a fine kettle of fish if the manual is wrong because I thought I could rely on it now I find out it is trash. Or some of it anyway.
OK I recall that about the weird 'fix' for it.

So then I have only VSS is what you are saying.

And finally, then, which is the gear that one changes to calibrate speedo and where is it? Is manual also wrong about this because it's saying change the one under the yoke and you say that's the drive gear not driven gear.

THANKS.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Good thread, my 2 gears:

I noticed with the truck on jackstands and tires off the ground, I can spin the tires freely, but when I spin the axle, it grabs on the hubs and spins the tires as well.

It takes a little back and forth to engage/disengage, but much less than 10'...I think they're just erring way on the side of caution there.

So in response to your reversing/downhill, I say the hubs would stay locked as long as your axle is being turned in 4wd.

I think he meant "shear pin" not literally shear pin... in reference to the hubs being the weak point, intentionally....they go first to save the rest of the driveline. I would called it my "inline fuse" lol.

The occasionally putting it in 4x4 is key. All that stuff needs to move around, or it gets stuck...like most things, and people.

About every two weeks, I will put it 4wd both high and low for a short creep up a fire road. No more than a few mins and mph is all it takes. Engage/disengage a few times, go through a few gears...its like a 100 yard road maybe 6% grade lol no biggie.

The auto hubs are well known for being crappy. The vacuum kind is worst IMO. Mine only seem to continue working perfectly because I am expecting them to break. I have a spare auto hub and a warn manual for one side (somewhere)...

After reading this thread I feel compelled to track down a good set of manual hubs, for when they do break, which will probably happen now after my previous brag.

 

[RonD]

1997 4x4 will have a VSS sensor with gear drive on transfer case rear output, 2 wire, pull it out and gear can be changed
2WD has same VSS sensor setup but on tail shaft housing

1999, 2WD or 4x4, used the ABS rear axle sensor with GEM for speed signal, need to reprogram GEM to correct speedometer for tire size

 

[James Morse]

Yes that's my feeling let hubs be on the weak side compared to the heftiest you could buy that is a waste of money.
I should have electric xfr case motor according to manual anyway.

On the VSS - finally found in the other book (body) about it. You take out the gear retainer, VSS, 0-ring (replace), and DRIVEN gear then swap in your new driven gear, grease, new o-ring, button up, done.

Spec on speedo is 57 to 62 seconds to go a mile so whatever mph that translates to. It's pretty tight actually. I believe it translates to, if your speedo reads 60, you can be going between 58 and 63.
If it took 57 seconds to go a mile then in an hour (3600 seconds) you went 63.2 miles that's how I figure it.
It's skewed opposite how you would think but basically if you said the spec is "about" 2-3 mph either way that's the gist of it.
So +5% change in tire size -might- be ok you just don't know until the GPS reading is known it could set it right on or it could be way low.

Thanks Ron for your patience it was a tough slog.