4wd hubs on 95

[moto4]

I have a 4wd question. Got a 95 XLT, 4wd, 4.0, 250k plus miles. When I got it had Warn manual hubs. I found a set of used auto hubs that appear to be in good shape, all the pieces are there, turn freely, and do not appear to be worn out. Mileage on them is unknown.
So, I brought them home, cleaned them up, slipped the manual hub pieces off, and these auto pieces on. In 4wd, the passenger side shaft/joints turn, the driver side does not. It seems to me, that the axle would turn, no matter what the hubs are doing, just wouldn’t be turning the wheel if the hub didn’t work. So, why is the axle not turning? Open diff? Axle not connected at diff? Hub not locking so axle does not turn due to open diff? Anybody got any thoughts?

 

[Nhaz]

Sorry in advance if any of this crap you already know.

The internals of a Auto hub are different that those of a manual hub. So when you unbolt the manual hub the nuts holding the rotor on are actually part of the manual hubs operation as well. Those would need to be unbolted and replaced with the auto hubs rotor Nut and the little wedge key to prevent the auto hubs nut from rotating off would also need to be installed.


http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.htm

First person I have seen wanting to put autos back on. the link is for Auto to manual

Also. Auto hubs are 100% guaranteed to fail. Their design makes them wear out and stop working.

I would recommend putting the manual hubs back on. They are really much better then the autos.

 

[dennis461]

more parts needed

Sorry in advance if any of this crap you already know.

The internals of a Auto hub are different that those of a manual hub. So when you unbolt the manual hub the nuts holding the rotor on are actually part of the manual hubs operation as well. Those would need to be unbolted and replaced with the auto hubs rotor Nut and the little wedge key to prevent the auto hubs nut from rotating off would also need to be installed.


http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.htm

First person I have seen wanting to put autos back on. the link is for Auto to manual

Also. Auto hubs are 100% guaranteed to fail. Their design makes them wear out and stop working.

I would recommend putting the manual hubs back on. They are really much better then the autos.

More parts are needed besides the auto nut and keyway keeper.
Most yards and folks forget about or lose the spring clutch that rides on the auto-nut.
When you pull an auto hub off, the spring clutch stays on the spindle.

 

[moto4]

I am pretty sure I got all the pieces. From the bearing nut back, everything appeared to be the same. I got the spring clutch (a tow piece affair), the washer that goes in front of that, and the keeper clip that rides in the groove. Plus the auto hubs, of course. The 95 I have was an auto hub truck at birth, and based on cut sheets I have, it seems that there is not much different from the bearing nut out, other than hub housing. But, I am not getting the hubs to lock in properly, so for now I have kept the manuals and will have to do more research.

 

[martin]

The high part of the activation cam has a little tit on the top. If that tit is broken or worn off the hubs will not stay in the locked position.

 

[blh0007]

I have a 4wd question. Got a 95 XLT, 4wd, 4.0, 250k plus miles. When I got it had Warn manual hubs. I found a set of used auto hubs that appear to be in good shape, all the pieces are there, turn freely, and do not appear to be worn out. Mileage on them is unknown.
So, I brought them home, cleaned them up, slipped the manual hub pieces off, and these auto pieces on. In 4wd, the passenger side shaft/joints turn, the driver side does not. It seems to me, that the axle would turn, no matter what the hubs are doing, just wouldn’t be turning the wheel if the hub didn’t work. So, why is the axle not turning? Open diff? Axle not connected at diff? Hub not locking so axle does not turn due to open diff? Anybody got any thoughts?

Are you turning the wheel by hand while your truck is jacked up or are you letting the engine turn the wheels. I'm not sure if you are turning the wheels by hand, but if you are letting the engine turn the wheels then that is normal. You have either a limited slip differential with worn clutches or an open differential that came stock on your truck, so when you have little traction the wheel with the least resistance turns, but not both. I would definitely stick with the manuals hubs though. You should put a locker up front in order to have power to both axles.

 

[moto4]

Are you turning the wheel by hand while your truck is jacked up or are you letting the engine turn the wheels. I'm not sure if you are turning the wheels by hand, but if you are letting the engine turn the wheels then that is normal. You have either a limited slip differential with worn clutches or an open differential that came stock on your truck, so when you have little traction the wheel with the least resistance turns, but not both. I would definitely stick with the manuals hubs though. You should put a locker up front in order to have power to both axles.

Well, I was actually looking under the truck, with it in 4WD and watching the axles/joints turn, or not turn as the case may be. I also was not able to get the traction I was with the manual hubs, up my driveway. I figured that it had an open diff, but based on what my Excursion does in 4WD (both turn) I was thinking the Ranger would to the same.
I have had 6 4WD vehicles (still have 3 of them) and the only one I have had with Auto Hubs is my Excursion, which I love. I use the 4WD to get up and down my driveway, daily, and for snowy drives a few times a year. The Auto hubs are just a convenience thing more than anything else, which is why I am trying to get them back on the Ranger.

 

[blh0007]

Well, I was actually looking under the truck, with it in 4WD and watching the axles/joints turn, or not turn as the case may be. I also was not able to get the traction I was with the manual hubs, up my driveway. I figured that it had an open diff, but based on what my Excursion does in 4WD (both turn) I was thinking the Ranger would to the same.
I have had 6 4WD vehicles (still have 3 of them) and the only one I have had with Auto Hubs is my Excursion, which I love. I use the 4WD to get up and down my driveway, daily, and for snowy drives a few times a year. The Auto hubs are just a convenience thing more than anything else, which is why I am trying to get them back on the Ranger.

yeah when i was in high school my parents had a 4x4 excursion... i loved driving that thing... anyways, i have manual hubs on my 94 ranger and it does the same thing that yours does... i think that we actually have ford's limited slip in our front axles and the clutches are so worn that it acts like an open differential. your excursion probably has a limited slip to that is still in good shape. (just a guess)... I'm gonna put a locker up front in mine soon, but as for your hubs... The automatic hubs in the earlier rangers were not reliable ... so if you need to depend on them then just put the manuals back on and leave them locked if you don't want to get out of your truck to unlock them... you can still disengage the 4x4 but your front axle will turn.

 

[hondaxr650]

Just be aware that if you run the manual hubs locked all the time that the outer axle shafts are supported by very small needle bearings that weren't designed for constant use and they wear out quickly when run all the time. It's a failure I see all the time on Super Duties when the customer leaves them locked, or the vacuum hubs fail and stick in the locked position.

 

[4x4junkie]

That doesn't seem to be an issue on Ranger frontends, I've got quite a few miles on mine having the hubs locked (many '70s trucks with fulltime D44 frontends also share the exact same needle bearings as the Ranger D35).

 

[stx4.0]

nhaz is absolutely right.Leave the manual hubs in..the automatic hubs are not convenient at all especially when you need them and they dont work and then you have to pay high $ to fix them.I wont have a ranger with that automatic junk on them,hubs or transfer case.The manual setup is always there when you need it.And as far as limited slips in the front unless ford started doing it recently I am 99% sure they never offered that option in the front axle and its something you defineately dont want to be driving in the snow/ice with anyway as it is dangerous especially on curves..mud is a different story.I know they did have it available in the older 60s/70s broncos and probably the trucks also but I am almost positive the early rangers and explorers did not have it available.

 

[hondaxr650]

Front limited slips were available but I've only seen ONE in 15 years at a Ford dealership. It was in a late 80s bronco. Never in a ranger though.

 

[4x4junkie]

'80s Rangers (and I think the BII too) did have it as an option on the D28 (has the number "2" appended to the axle code on the door sticker). It was never offered with the D35 though.

 

[stx4.0]

I didnt think they offered it in any of the ranger/explorer fronts but I will look for that code 2 with the axle code from now on.I have heard it is an option in the newer explorers like around 03 on up but I am doubting that as I have several factory brochures and they make no mention of a limited slip option for the front axle.Actually the ones I have for early rangers and bronco IIs dont mention it either but those brochures have never listed all the options,just some of the most popular.

 

[feellnfroggy]

If you run the d35 fully locked then you arent guarunteed to have problems, but if you have any issue at all with the axles or diff, those issues will be multiplied by ten when you run fully locked hubs. I had autos on mine and just kept replacing them when I broke them, at 15 bux a pop it wasnt a bad deal. But I gota set of welded autohus from THATGUY which are pretty much fulltime locked hubs. THe hubs are great, he did a great job welding them, but being fully locked sped up my issues with my diff and now im without 4x4 till I replace it(bad maintence from being new to 4x4). It will be fine as long as you take care of your front end. Proper maintenance and all that. But EVERYONE will tell you to keep your manual hubs, people pay out hte a$$ for those. The autos will fail when you dont want them too. BUt if you insist on running them keep a spare set in your truck with you. And/ or keep the manuals and all guts close by too.