4R44E Help

[Beef52751]

I just rebuilt my 4R and got it back in the truck. When i took it out i didnt have 3rd 4th or Reverse. I now dont have 1st or 4th. It is throwing 3 codes that i can t remember off of the top of my head but i will post them later. Any ideas where to start looking for what i screwed up??? Thanks
Beef

 

[Beef52751]

The codes are:
0176-Fuel Composition Sensor Ciruit Malfunction
0743-Torque Converter Clutch Electrical
1747-Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Short Circuit (Short Input)

Any Ideas now.
Thanks
Beef

 

[pcollins]

always start with the code that was on the top of the list on the computer. i'm assuming it was the fuel one. so even tho i have on idea how to fix that exact code, thats the first thing to do.

 

[Beef52751]

that one is probally because the truck sat for 8 m0nths without a trans in it.

 

[Viper Command]

code 176 is a wire to your cam syncro, also look for smashed wire harnes at the bell houseing/firewall/block, your trans control wires are w/ it too. look and you will find, your hole problem started when you installed it.


let me know what you find.

 

[Beef52751]

no luck with messed up wires yet.

 

[SMTGREG]

The wires that Viper is talking about are at the top of the trans. Where the two bolt together.Pinched when reinstalling the trans. The original problem was a direct clutch problem (no 3-4-R). The No 1st and 4th doesn't make since. 1st gear is only forward clutch applied and 4th is forward, direct and od band. Verify that wiring from PCM to Trans is good. Does it move in manual low? Manual 2 (actually 3rd gear)? P0743 is electrical only TCC if shorted to power it will stall in manual 2 at idle, torque converter stuck on. if open circuit no torque converter lock up. P1747 is Electronic pressure control solenoid. Short Circuit — causes minimum EPC pressure (minimum capacity) and limits engine torque. Zero EPC — no 2nd and 4th gear. Slips in 1st and 3rd with high torque input. Open circuit causes high EPC pressure and harsh engagements.

 

[Beef52751]

The direct clutch was the problem originaly. It was trashed!!!! it takes off in manual first but when i shift it to manual second i dont feel a shift or the RPMs dont drop. when i shift into drive it shifts once. But i hit my OD Off button and i doesnt down shift. so i assume that it doesnt have 1st and OD. The motor is VERY "boggy" trying to take off from a stop in M1 M2 or D. Ill have to keep checking but does any one know what color these wires should be??? Thanks for all your help!!!
Beef

 

[Beef52751]

More Bad news. I got my truck to run and drive right but the check engine light was still on. I was dumb enough to let a "Ford Technician" take a look at my truck. He screwed with his scan tool for 30 minutes or so and now the truck will hardly run. and now its throwing all of these codes. needless to say im pissed!!! Any suggestions now???

P0743-TCC Solenoid Circuit Failure During On Board Diagnostics
P1747-EPC Solenoid Circuit Failure. Shorted Circuit
P0750-SS1 Solenoid Circuit Failure
P0755-SS2 Solenoid Circuit Failure
P0760-SS3 Solenoid Circuit Failure
P1754-CCS Solenoid Circuit Failure

Thanks For your help guys
Beef

 

[Beef52751]

^^^Those are just the tranny codes he gave me. He said it was throwing all 3 O2 Sensor codes now too and it wasnt before

 

[SMTGREG]

With O2 sensor codes plus trans codes check fuse #13 a 15 amp, in the battery junction box under the hood. that fuse supplies power to the trans solenoids and the o2 sensors. The color of the wire from the fuse going into the sensors and the trans connector is Light blue with an orange stripe it should have 12 volts with the key on. With all the solenoids inop(off) the trans defaults to 3rd gear, that's why the sluggish start.

 

[MountainMike]

The Ford tech's scanner is just a much better version of yours, it won't change driveabilty. It's just a reader, not a flasher.

Wish I could help Beef, I'll see what I can dig up over the next little while.

 

[Beef52751]

With O2 sensor codes plus trans codes check fuse #13 a 15 amp, in the battery junction box under the hood. that fuse supplies power to the trans solenoids and the o2 sensors. The color of the wire from the fuse going into the sensors and the trans connector is Light blue with an orange stripe it should have 12 volts with the key on. With all the solenoids inop(off) the trans defaults to 3rd gear, that's why the sluggish start.

You figured it out!!!!! The truck runs good and shifts good now!!!!

BUT....On to the next problem.
Now the O/D Off Light starts flashing after aboput 10 miles. I was told this means that it is overheating. Where do i start to figure out why it is doing this??? I noticed the Coolant Res. is empty so im going to Refill it and the radiator to begin with. But do you think i need to back flush the trans fluid out of the Cooler in case some debris from the Previous failure got caught in there and is plugging it???
Thanks For all your Help!!!!!!!
Beef

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Anytime you replace/rebuild a transmission it is mandatory that you flush and back flush all cooler lines/ coolers (or replace the cooler)

The flashing OD light is a trans code, check for codes again.

 

[Bent Bolt]

You figured it out!!!!! The truck runs good and shifts good now!!!!

BUT....On to the next problem.
Now the O/D Off Light starts flashing after aboput 10 miles. I was told this means that it is overheating.

No it doesn't. Go back to the Ford tech and get the code retrieved. There is still something wrong with the trans. Won't know where to begin until you know what that code is. You are doing a complete stab in the dark otherwise.