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4d55 turbo diesel info


yeah i get your point.

i just want the thing done and i can get the shafts made fairly easy and fast i havent really looked for a fm145... i suppose thats a good thing to look into though.

ill see if i can find one on the cheap it would be nice to keep my shafts and all too... but i dont even know where to look for one of those things. its gunna be hard to find one in CO i bet. any ideas on where to start other than CL?
 
yeah thats what i meant haha my bad. but thank you a ton for the help and if i need a page or two from that fsm ill let you know thanks man! and my buddy found the model and manufacture plate that go to the engine from the D50. Apparently its a 1983 like yours 4wd sport and the model of the 4d55 is a L028.

Wrapped around the badge is a note that says "Kraft Power (770-963-6288) of georgia" apparently they sell quite a few parts for 4d55's. i havent looked into them yet but incase you guys need some parts call um up!
 
Wrapped around the badge is a note that says "Kraft Power (770-963-6288) of georgia" apparently they sell quite a few parts for 4d55's. i havent looked into them yet but incase you guys need some parts call um up!

We've been using Kraft (Its still in the rolodex at work as W.A. Kraft) since they early 70's. If the parts are available, they will find them.
 
before you go running around hunting down fm-145's and fm-146's, have you verified that the bell housing on the km-132 will swap to the fm series? If not, playing with drive lines might be in your future. That, or making an adapter for the M50D. Ford 4d55 bell housings are a bit hard to come by.

If it does, the FM-146 is the transmission of choice, I would think. It is the same length as the transmission you have now, meaning the transfer case will remain in the same place and drive lines can stay where they are. The FM-145 will work too, however you would have to move the cross member up a bit (because it is shorter) and either lengthen your drive line or get a drive line out of whatever the FM-145 was removed from.

I had a hard time sourcing a 145 or 146 on craigslist, so I ended up going to a junkyard and pulling one myself. That might be another route to consider.

Is the KM hydrolic clutch setup? and is it electric or manual shift?
 
before you go running around hunting down fm-145's and fm-146's, have you verified that the bell housing on the km-132 will swap to the fm series? If not, playing with drive lines might be in your future. That, or making an adapter for the M50D. Ford 4d55 bell housings are a bit hard to come by.

If it does, the FM-146 is the transmission of choice, I would think. It is the same length as the transmission you have now, meaning the transfer case will remain in the same place and drive lines can stay where they are. The FM-145 will work too, however you would have to move the cross member up a bit (because it is shorter) and either lengthen your drive line or get a drive line out of whatever the FM-145 was removed from.

I had a hard time sourcing a 145 or 146 on craigslist, so I ended up going to a junkyard and pulling one myself. That might be another route to consider.

Is the KM hydrolic clutch setup? and is it electric or manual shift?

an adapter plate for the m5od would be really sweet...
 
I second that, but that can get pricey and frustrating.. part of the benefit to me in the 4d55 is that bell housings are available, even if it involves a little mod elsewhere. Reading about either having a adapter plate made, or making one yourself, shimming flywheels, measuring slave cyl throw.. big project in itself. :icon_welder:
 
the km is a hydraulic clutch.

im fairly cetain its the same bolt pattern as a fm146... havent checked though.

as for finding a fm in a jy here... good luck haha theres a big reason my friend grabbed these things out of the yard, theyre rare, and in CO, they seem very rare. unless theyre the same transmissions as used in some of the older gas rangers as well?? i think the fm145 was in the 2.8l's but not sure on the 146...

i can get and adapter made for cheap or even free from the guy i bought the motors from for an m5od but mine is already going out so thatd be pointless.

as of now im thinking it would be best, easiest, fastest, most reliable, and cheapest (in the long run) to get shafts made. that way i could loose my POS 2 piece drive shaft, have brand new shafts, and get them built a little stronger than stock. repositioning crossmembers and what have you is not really a worry or problem to me. just taking some measurements and drilling holes. might even be a good time to make a cross member i can run traction bars, extended rad arms, and what not to when i SAS and swap the rear axle...
 
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Alright then! get to work! :headbang:

Here is a basic starting circuit.

startingcircut.png
 
hell yeah thanks man! when you look at the harness stuff seems way more complex.
but what about vacuum, glow plugs, and all those shenanigans? thats what i was questioning more than the simple electrical, trying to patch in things like heater, a/c, and any other vacuum/ plumbing controlled things stumps me.

and itll be a little while before i actually start swapping. i need to get everything on the other motor and clean it up, go through it, paint it, get all parts i know ill need (mounts, driveshafts inner cooler/ oil cooler mount setup ect.) before i try and put it in. that way my truck is down for the least amount of time possible.
 
I second that, but that can get pricey and frustrating.. part of the benefit to me in the 4d55 is that bell housings are available, even if it involves a little mod elsewhere. Reading about either having a adapter plate made, or making one yourself, shimming flywheels, measuring slave cyl throw.. big project in itself. :icon_welder:

for now, i'm only planning for the engine swap. but in the long run that adapter plate could worth it, as the fm145 and 146 were not the strongest. maybe i worry too much about the tranny, it is a 86 hp engine after all, and i drive like an old man...
 
Second that Eric.. The M50D is miles ahead of the FM series. It isn't the strongest, but I would think hold up to the power the 4d55 is capable of putting out like you suggested.

Vacuum, Heater core..etc. It's all just as easy as the simple wiring. The heater core is a loop, so it doesn't matter which hoses you bring off the engine to the core, it will work. Vacuum, you need a vacuum pump obviously to run your brake booster. You will have vacuum lines off the intake too, to your Injection Pump .. Wastegate.. etc. Glow plugs I'm gonna just run a momentary switch off a relay. I'm not messing with AC.. I can do without it in WA. I'm still gathering parts myself to get everything working correctly myself. :icon_cheers:
 
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for me, it's just a transplant! i have a 4d55 truck in working order, i'll swap the entire harness and dash in my truck.. and the engine and transmission
 
dont get me wrong if my m5od was rebuilt or something id seriously look into the plate too. i worry about transmission issues behind all our bigger diesels but im fairly certain this one will hold 90 horse fine.

i wish i could swap dash and all makes it more of a swap over than a try this try that situation ya know. but im sure everything will go good.

and same here oh2 we need to get on it!! haha
 

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