In order to instal the 460 without modifing the firewall or the floor, I had to do some things that you would not normally do and are not good practices. The engine is slightly offset. Thats not really unusual though as many factory engines are not centered. The engine is also at more of a tilt than you would want in a normal swap but I had to set it this way in order to go under the floor and over the front suspension and frame. The engine is also skewed slightly to the right at the front so that it clears the steering shaft. Time will tell how this will affect things like universal joints and vibrations.
I made the center section of the core support removable. This is the only way that you have enough room to get the engine in and out of the engine bay. Fact is, there is not enough room to instal the engine with the fabricated valve covers on the engine. Everything is very tight. They were many little things that took a lot of time. The hood latch took about 3 days. When you look at it you would wonder why it took so long. The radiator is in front of the core support and the lower part of it is between the modified frame horns.
I used the original transmission crossmember by cutting the rivets on the factory brackets and moving the brackets forward, then drilling holes and bolting them back in place. The center section was changed to accommodate the c6 transmission mount. I used a Winters floor shifter. The original speedometer cable is connected to the transmission by using a later model c6 speedometer drive. (it works now but I need to buy the correct gear so that the speedometer reads correctly).
By installing all the original senders in the 460, all the gauges in the dash work. I do have a redundant gauge panel under the dash.
I removed the original electric fuel pump from the tank. I used the mechanical pump on the engine. Most of the fuel system and lines were hand fabricated for this application but I used the factory tank with the fuel level sender.
The rear end assembly is an Explorer unit with Explorer springs. I fabricated the the lower spring plate and lower shock mount. The axle tubes were welded to the center section. I added air shocks. The change to 4 wheel disc brakes did not require a change of the master cylinder but I did defeat and eliminate the anti lock brake system.
You might note that I have a heater as I plan to drive in cold weather. I removed the air conditioning heat exchanger and modified the plastic housing by fabricating a fiberglas cover that will allow it to work and clear the right side valve cover. A simple thing that was a lot of work.
Lots of other stuff. If you have specific questions, I will try to answer them. Note that I am 70 years old and it has taken me the last 6 months of on and off work to do this swap. I was motivated by the naysayers that told me it was not possible.
Today I will work on fabricating the fiberglass cowl induction hood scoop. Then I plan to drive it some more and critique (road test) my work. Tomorrow my new front springs should arrive, after they are installed, I would like to take it out on the interstate.
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