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4.56 gears vs. 4.88 gears for 33's


I know 4.88's are slightly deeper than what a 33'' tire desires, but thats fine with me.
FIFY :D





I have 4.10s with the 33s on my 4.0L Ranger and it's nothing more than just adequate.

I agree with the others, if you have 35s planned in the near future, get the 4.88s (I'd even be tempted to go 5.13s if it's an auto trans, it has a taller OD gear than the stickshift).
 
Get this, they measure 1 inch different... If you have low pressure on one yeah it's going to be be different... Brands and tread depth should make indifference too... But 33's are 1 inch shorter than 34's if they were the same size, they wouldn't call them 34's they would call them 33's!
Again, I've had both, STFU. Grab a tape measure and go measure some tires, you might learn something.
 
if it helps, i run 35's and bought 4.88's. installed the rear in a spare 8.8 i have, havent installed it yet, but didnt do the front yet either. lol, i still have 3.73's backed by a 3.0L!
 
ok... so its not a dd, and 4.88's are cheaper.. why would you not do the lower gears?
 
Again, I've had both, STFU. Grab a tape measure and go measure some tires, you might learn something.

i don't care how many tires you've got, there's a reason they have a different size, they don't pull a number out of a hat and go "oh this is what they will call this tire"

now stop getting your panties in a bunch in a thread where someone asked for help
 
i don't care how many tires you've got, there's a reason they have a different size, they don't pull a number out of a hat and go "oh this is what they will call this tire"

now stop getting your panties in a bunch in a thread where someone asked for help
Again. Grab a tape measure and go measure some tires, you might learn something.

I'm trying hard to be nice but you don't listen.
 
yeah, i did... my 31x10.5's measure at 30.5 (they also have 70,000 km on them)
and my 33x12.5's measure at 32.5 (they have a softer rubber and have 30,000km on them)

the difference between the tire size is 2 inches, and the difference between the actual measurements is 2 inches... which is EXACTLY what i said in my post...
 
yeah, i did... my 31x10.5's measure at 30.5 (they also have 70,000 km on them)
and my 33x12.5's measure at 32.5 (they have a softer rubber and have 30,000km on them)

the difference between the tire size is 2 inches, and the difference between the actual measurements is 2 inches... which is EXACTLY what i said in my post...
As you can see, tires usually measure up short, some more than others :icon_idea: Typically it's anywhere from .5"-1.5". A brand new 34x10.50 LTB (which the OP is talking about) is 32.5, the same as my 33x10.50 BFGs. My old 31s were around 30". The occasional tire will measure tall, I believe a 38" SX is known for running taller than 38". Just because it says X on the sidewall doesn't mean it will measure up. So again, a 34x10.50 LTB measures out the same as an average 33 and doesn't needed to be compensated for gearing wise.
 
Weezl....I am neither for you or against you. You need no help in that department lol. I cannot stop the digging you keep doing. :dunno:


My old BFG AT's 31's measured 29.5 bald and 30 when they were new.

My new KM2 33x10.5's measure 32.5-32.7.

Superswamper LTB's measure the same as most 33's it seems.

I know my fathers 35's are shorter than 35".

The sidewall size is just a guide. All manufacturers have a different trend. Most are shorter than advertised, few are actual height and even fewer are taller.

Now Junkie is saying to possibly consider 5.13s.....maybe I need to sleep on 4.88's for a while. I'm all confused up inside

Now the debate is 4.56's vs 4.88's vs 5.13's

Would I even be able to go highway speeds in 5.13's with OD and stock auto tranny with 33's? Chart says 3400 RPMs w/o OD.
 
all i'm saying is that your average 33" tire is going to be one inch shorter than your average 34" tire key word average, of course there's going to be variance, and even the weight of the vehicle will throw the measurements off, which will be changed by sidewall stiffness...

anyways, back to the gears, i honestly say 4.56 would be more than enough for 33's and if you plan to drive on the highway, you probably won't want any lower... but for 35's you're into a different situation, and i can't really comment, but i would imagine that 4.56's would be fine for them... if you're NOT worried about streetability, why not do 7.10's or something? lol

my previous point was that it depends if you EVER need a gear lower than 1st in 4 low, and with my 33's and my manual in 1st, it's low enough for damn near anything... though there was one circumstance where i was creeping forward, i wished that there was a lower gear, not because i needed the torque, but bumping the clutch gently was difficult
 
all i'm saying is that your average 33" tire is going to be one inch shorter than your average 34" tire key word average,
The thing is, there is no average 34" tire, Interco is the only one that makes a 34" tire, which for the last time measures the same as your average (BFG) 33.
 
The thing is, there is no average 34" tire, Interco is the only one that makes a 34" tire, which for the last time measures the same as your average (BFG) 33.

The LTB is the only one I know of with a side wall advertised sized of 34". Thats the key he doesn't get....no other manufacturers sell a 34" tire.


Weezl, that one instance you experienced where you need or wanted a lower gear is what I don't want to encounter.

Now I'm pretty much sold on at least 4.88's. maybe even 5.13's.

Now, who is gonna convince me of 5.13's?
 
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The LTB is the only one I know of with a side wall advertised sized of 34". Thats the key he doesn't get....no other manufacturers sell a 34" tire.


Weezl, that one instance you experienced where you need or wanted a lower gear is what I don't want to encounter.

Now I'm pretty much sold on at least 4.88's. maybe even 5.13's.

like i said though, it was because i was creeping, and honestly, even with 5.13's i would have been bumping it... i honestly think i would have felt the best with people pushing my truck instead of the motor controlling it... just because it would be that slow... i can't even remember where that was now that i think about it...
 
i wouldn't do 5.13's.. now that's coming from hear say. 4.88's in my vote.

i know Kate (03 rubi tj (i think)) loves her 4.0, auto, 5.13's, and 35's, but thats a jeep... but every other person i see that has 5.13's on tires less than 37's don't like them to much.
 
You can never have enough gear.

I disagree with this statement wholeheartedly. I can tell you from experience that you can definitely have too much gear.


There are multiple reasons for this:


First off, there is something to be said for wheelspeed, especially on certain obstacles/terrain. For instance, back when I had my shop, I ran supermod class tube buggies. I can guarantee you there are a lot of obstacles that you just aren't getting over trying to crawl with 5 transfer cases and 7.38 axle gears. Sometimes, wheelspeed and momentum are a must.

Second, there is an inherent strength issue with lower gear sets. As multiplication (the ratio) increases, the head of the pinion gets progressively smaller (with fewer teeth), and/or they try to add teeth to the ring gear, making the teeth smaller. This reduces the amount of area over which the load gets spread. It's a very simple concept to express if you try the following - First, interlock your fingers all the way, and try to spread your hands against one another in "shear" type motion. Now, slide your hands apart so that only the tips of two fingers are touching and try again. See the difference? With axles like the D35 which uses a 7.5" ring gear and no extra pinion support,this becomes even more of an issue thn it is with something ike a D60 or 10.5" 14 Bolt.

Third, the extra torque multiplication generates excessive stress on drivetrain parts. Let's assume for a moment that you are running a motor with 200 ft lbs of torque, a manual transmission with a 5.1 first gear, a transfer case with a 2.72-1 low range, and 3.73 axle gears. Simplifed to it's most crude form (not accounting for parasitic drag in the system, slip torque, shock loading, etc...) your 200 ft. lbs of torque becomes roughly 10,150 ft. lbs of torque at the tires. A stock dana 35 axle shaft is going to fail at around half of that torque, so if you ever wedge a tire, or shock load an axle under heavy throttle, you are going to grenade a shaft. Now if you are running the same setup with dual cases and 5.13 gears your previous 10,150 ft lbs of torque is now up around 38,000 ft lbs. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that this is murder on axleshafts, the input/output shafts on the second t-case, driveline parts, gearsets, etc.

Adding larger tires only intesifies this issue because it increases slip torque, leverage, weight, & shock load on the drivetrain.

Personally, I'd never consider running anything larger than a 31" tire on something like a D35, and I'd never run a gearset lower than 4.10s. I"ve destoyed 4340 chromo 30 spline shafts with 31" tires and a bone stock 4.0L. You look at the break stength figures for the shafts, and you see that it really doesn't take much. (FWIW, really high gearsets like 2.73s and such tend to have the opposite issue - as the pinion head gets larger (assuming no carrier break), the ring gear gets thinner, and in certain instances, can become thin enough to enough to allow the carrier to deflecti under load. In genreal, gearsets in the 3.73 to 4.10 range tend to offer the best compromise for strength in most housing assemblies).


As for the tire stuff, Weezl, you really need to listen to what these guys are saying. If you get out a tape measure and go measure some tires, you will see that what the tire says on the sidewall has very little to do with how tall it acutally is. The advertised O.D. and C.S. numbers help a little, but even then, the height will vary quite a bit depending on rim width, inflation pressure, etc. I've seen off-brand RV stlye "Gound Hog" knockoffs that read 36" on the sidewalls that are only a hair over 33" tall with a tape. You can measure a 33 X 12.50- 15 TSL and a 33 X 12.50 -15 BFG Mud Terrain (both fresh out of the mold), and you wll find that they are NOT anywhere near the same size. It is VERY MUCH POSSIBLE for a tire claiming to be 33" tall and a tire claiming to be 34" tall to be the same height - or even for the 34" tire to measure smaller than the 33" tire.


-Hans
 
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