4.0L Speed governor

[4.0L2WD]

So today, I was doing some testing on my 2001 ranger 2wd 4.0L, I upgraded the front rotors, calipers and pads, I noticed there is a limiter around 3800 rpms......How do i disable this feature? Rather annoying. Truck stops on a dime, But loosing power above 3500....Lame

 

[stegomon]

no point to go above that if it makes it's peek power at a much lower rpm. but maybe superchip can do it

 

[pcollins]

Power curve is over at that point. Your just wasting gas and causing wear above that area. Ford put the limit there for a reason.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

3800 rpm? In neutral you mean right?

It should rev way higher than that while driving.

 

[4.0L2WD]

3800 rpm? In neutral you mean right?

It should rev way higher than that while driving.

I know right....I was thinking WTF...Why is there a limiter on the RPM's. While driving WOT won't go above 4,000. It will rev over 6k in N.

Fiddle me that...

 

[tanbuddy]

do u have the ohc or ohv motor?

 

[Big Jim M]

SLOTTED rotors

Perhaps I can help a bit here.. Slotted rotors and super brake pads have a place on the track... but not on the street!
Making the vehicle stop quicker has already been done by Ford! Stopping quicker is all in the tires.. The factory brakes are fine for stopping on streets.
Ultra hard brake pads are for road racing. It takes a few hard stops to heat them up and make em work as designed.

Slotted rotors are for road racing also. Their design allows a bit more heat dissipation when racing from one curve to another.

The WEAK LINK in stopping on city streets is the tire adhesion to the street.
Having wide tall tires causes LESS adhesion per sq in. When one tire starts to slide the brake controller lessens the hydraulic pressure to all tires and the actual stop is prolonged.

None of these racing brake parts will lower the stopping distance from the factory parts. Unless the vehicle is racing on a track where the stopping is harder and more frequent.

Many of the racing parts will for sure INCREASE the stopping distance on city streets.

If your brake parts are worn, it may FEEL like there is an improvement at first. But none of the racing parts actually make the ride stop quicker on city streets than stock parts.

Big Jim

 

[4.0L2WD]

I usually agree with what you have to say Jim. But here in Bay area California. You need good braking regardless. I used to race in a SCCA circuit when i lived in Oregon. So I understand race style driving. When i replaced the rotor's 2 of the old ones were warped and the pads where crap. When i am driving on 6 lane freeway's with a average of 80 mph. I like to have peace of mind knowing i can stop on a dime if needed. Lot's of drivers out there that don't care about using blinkers or cutting you off. So if i can buy some slotted roters to reflect the heat and carbon pad's i am going to do it. It's worth it to me and since i use this ranger as a company work truck for myself, It's worth it. I have Brand new Goodyear Wrangler radials right now.

 

[4.0L2WD]

Many of the racing parts will for sure INCREASE the stopping distance on city streets.

If your brake parts are worn, it may FEEL like there is an improvement at first. But none of the racing parts actually make the ride stop quicker on city streets than stock parts.

Big Jim

I disagree. It's hard to use the word "racing parts" as bold as you are without being technical.

It's a 2wd truck with a big rear axle and big front engine. Buying Slotted rotor's and carbon pads, Does not say "racing" in my head. It says better than stock and better and more efficient stopping when needed. The pad's are already charged when your driving the rotters remove unnecessary heat from the braking area. I bought Hawk Pads 0.650 in. thick; Made from ferro-carbon material for improved stopping power with reduced noise and dust; severe-duty friction technology for greater fade resistance to offer an excellent pad and rotor life. It does not FEEL like i am stopping faster. I AM stopping sooner. I set up cones and measured the the amount from MPH it took me to stop in a parking lot. I have already noticed a scientific physical gain of 30% in stopping.

Ill take it.

 

[Big Jim M]

Perhaps

I disagree. It's hard to use the word "racing parts" as bold as you are without being technical.

It's a 2wd truck with a big rear axle and big front engine. Buying Slotted rotor's and carbon pads, Does not say "racing" in my head. It says better than stock and better and more efficient stopping when needed. The pad's are already charged when your driving the rotters remove unnecessary heat from the braking area. I bought Hawk Pads 0.650 in. thick; Made from ferro-carbon material for improved stopping power with reduced noise and dust; severe-duty friction technology for greater fade resistance to offer an excellent pad and rotor life. It does not FEEL like i am stopping faster. I AM stopping sooner. I set up cones and measured the the amount from MPH it took me to stop in a parking lot. I have already noticed a scientific physical gain of 30% in stopping.

Ill take it.

From the worn out brakes you replaced that MIGHT be true. HOWEVER if you had new factory brakes and rotors up against the racing type you installed it would be IMPOSSIBLE to stop in shorter distance!

You just gotta know the TIRES are the weak link in stopping! ALL new rotors and pads are able to stop the tires from turning.. at which time the damn braking system will LOWER the hydralic pressure in an attempt to make all the tires turn at the same speed!

Slottted rotors do indeed lose heat faster than non drilled or standard rotors.. BUT they are NOT needed in normal day to day driving. They serve no purpose unless they are on a track where the braking is done at full power time after time.

Ditto on the racing pads! Most require heating from a few power stops before they do BETTER than normal street type pads.

I have shown guys in several different vehicles that their rides DIDN'T stop quicker! In fact the first stop from 60 mph with cold rotors was ALWAYS a longer distance. One feller with a 1/2 ton Chevy couldn't stop within 25 feet of where his original rotors and pads would stop. Then after 5 or 6 panic stops his brakes would perform as well as the factory ones.

STOPPING DISTANCE is one of the selling points of all new vehicles. If slotted rotors or racing pads would gain even 2% they would be on all new vehicles.
Sure they have a place...but it ain't on our city streets.

Some here should RESEARCH what they are thinking of doing before making a purchase. Just because it is for sale doesn't mean it will help one damn thing..and in many cases will make it worse.
Big JIm

 

[bobbywalter]

if you are laying down under load in 1st or second gear before 6000 rpm you have an issue.


load sensing is possibly off, o2 bad or temp/other sensor bad or dirty...likely maf. maybe the truck has a botched tune. or an alarm with a valet feature or something.


tires and brakes are a combo that needs matching.
i know if you match up larger brakes to larger or stickier tires you stop better as long as the system is balanced correctly.

in most areas of cali i have to say upgraded brakes are worth it if your in a hurry allot. you will blow by oem ranger brakes pretty quick cruising the hills. but if you drive like a human a 2wd would be literally hard pressed to need upgraded brakes.

 

[4.0L2WD]

I am not even going to reply to Jim's comment. I have already stated my opinion about upgrading my stopping power. Here in CA we don't drive like old people. So my daily style is prob a lot dif than everyone else's.

Load sensor? Never heard of that. Temp sensor and coolant temp sensor are brand new. No CEL's.

 

[Big Jim M]

Like I said!

Some here need to research the racing items they intend to purchase before they actually SPEND the money...

The load sensor is a device that allows extra fluid to be sent to the rear brakes when the vehicle is loaded more than normal. USUALLY it is on the rear axle and is connected to both the axle and the frame. As the frame gets closer to the axle, indicating a load, more hydralic fluid is allowed to go to the rear brakes.

Now if one really wants quicker stops he can research TIRES and find a tire that will have more adheason to the surface than the ones he has. That MIGHT cause the vehicle to stop quicker.. But there ain't no brakes or rotors that will stop any quicker than stock!!

There are racing brakes that will make far more PANIC stops than stock brakes.. but these are of no use UNLESS numerous PANIC stops are in order..

Now if you have a 1946 Plymouth.. Yep! Them brakes can be upgraded! BUT they cannot be upgraded BEYOND the grip the tires have on the surface! The TIRES are the weak link in ALL our stopping power.

So in short, if we can slide a tire and cause the braking system to start lowering the hydralic pressure, there is nothing else that can be done to the brakes! Only the tires can be addressed..
Big JIm

 

[Bird]

LOL - Jim, the 'load sensing' that BW is referencing is the engine load calculation in the tune - determines fueling / spark, etc - seeing that our trucks don't have 'load sensors' for braking, your comments are useless.

OP, if the engine rev's fine in neutral, but seems to limit in gear, you need to start looking at a possible tune-up / MAF cleaning / clogged fuel filter / possible restriction in the exhaust (cats). The SOHC 4.0's usually have no trouble reving up to 6300+rpm in gear.

Bird

ps. There ARE aftermarket pad / rotor combinations that stop like stockers but won't fade nearly as fast as stockers..........

 

[daniel3507]

Im lost. How did this turn into another "aftermarket sucks" thread?