4.0l & Np435 & 1356

[Rulebreaker]

I'll get them 2 you this week. I have a whole box of bushings and I will sell them separate from the kit for $15.

 

[dieseldane]

May have got lucky, the brother in law says he has a late 70's or early-80's Dodge four speed and transfer case laying around, and he's getting tired of moving the heavy suckers around. Crossing my fingers for a NP435 and NP203.... That would be amazing as I could make a doubler to mate my Dana 20 to.

 

[Rulebreaker]

I've got a 3.0L laying on the garage floor now. Do I build a 3.0L NP435 kit? RB

 

[supersamikc]

did you run your stock 4.0 inspection plate?

 

[Rulebreaker]

did you run your stock 4.0 inspection plate?

yes

 

[supersamikc]

another question for someone, could you run a small block c6 behind it?

 

[Rulebreaker]

another question for someone, could you run a small block c6 behind it?

I'd sell you just the adapter plate if you want to figure out a way to hook a C6 converter to a 4.0L flex plate. I'm guessing you would need an adapter plate for the 4.0L flex plate. 435 has much better gearing so thats the best way to go for gearing purposes. RB

 

[Shran]

What vehicle did your slave cylinder come from? I need to do something different with mine, the clutch pedal is insanely hard to push. I'm using a '75 Toyota Land Cruiser slave right now.

 

[Rulebreaker]

http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/PULL-TYPE-SLAVE-CYLINDER-UMP-STOCK-RACE-CAR-LATE-MODEL-/150565075944?hash=item230e60bbe8&item=150565075944&pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr

 

[Shran]

Nice, thanks! How does your clutch pedal feel? I am going for as light as possible.

 

[Rulebreaker]

The feel is more about the master/slave relationship. I think a smaller master bore is easier than a large master bore. So a 5/8 master would be easier to push than say a 7/8. I'm saying this all by memory from a truck I worked on years ago so dont quote me on this.

 

[Shran]

Been doing some research to refresh my memory today since the current master/slave has been in the truck for two years.

Speedway had good documentation for their slave cylinders (which look exactly like the eBay one above) and they recommend using a 3/4 bore master and a 7/8 bore slave with 3/16 hose. If you want quicker clutch action, use a 1/4 hose.

Looks like it has something to do with volume of fluid - ie, small (3/4 bore) pushing large (7/8) or vice versa.

Factory Ranger master cylinders are 3/4 bore, and my Toyota slave is 3/4 bore so I believe that is my problem. Will be ordering a new slave shortly.

 

[Shran]

I finally got around to fixing my slave cylinder issue and thought I'd add the solution here since it is relevant. So far so good, pedal is much easier to push and the clutch feels like it just works better.

Speedway sells a 7/8 bore push slave cylinder that I bought. The bracket was very easy to build, just a piece of angle iron with 4 holes drilled in it. I reused the fittings and push rod from my Toyota slave. The only other comment I have is that you MUST use the '82-up bellhousing that has the slave cylinder mounts cast into it.

Link to the one I bought:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Push-Type-Slave-Cylinder,1944.html

 

[supersamikc]

what have you guys been doing for exhaust, or manifolds? my manifolds exit pretty close to the adapter and do not leave much or any room to run the down pipes. motor isout of a 93 ranger 4.0 stock manifolds

 

[supersamikc]

anyone????