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4.0?


sbrslewis is runnin 3.73's with 33's in his 4.0 b2 and not having a problem. It had plenty of get up and go on the highway. I'll probably go the same route once I get my 33's
 
The 7.5 axle will hold up for a good while if you don't beat the crap out of it. Ford has even been putting 7.5s in the 4.0 Mustangs

Your trans won't last as long though. Look for an M5OD. They hold up pretty well.
 
what are the differences between my borg warner 13-50 t case and one out of an explorer i really want to keep it all manual( manual hubs,manual trans,manual t case ) less headaches and less to go wrong in my opinion

gears are another thing i really dont understand maybe you can shed some light on this subject im planning on runnin some 33x10.5x15 with some on road use

For your first question... the 1354 has a 6 gear planetary set, the 1350 has a 4 gear so the 1354 is a little stronger in that aspect. It also has a fixed front yoke where most 1350s have a slip yoke front output.

Second - For mostly offroad use with 33's I would go with 4.10 or 4.56 but NOT any higher. 3.73s even in low range is just dumb, especially if you have a manual transmission. Not even close to being low enough geared and a great way to waste a clutch. 4.56 or even 4.88 would be a great all purpose gear. Speaking from experience, 4.10 is just not low enough.
 
any progress?
I will be starting a similar swap fairly soon using a 94 ranger as the donor. I am tryin to figure out how to run a pump without using a 2.9 sending unit. the ford tech manual say's the factory pump supplies 45 psi at at 16.9 GPH and has a 125 psi internal relief (incase a line is pinched or plugged).
I havent looked yet but i think im gonna try and find an aftermarket pump (frame mounted) and hope that i never pinch a line.
 
For your first question... the 1354 has a 6 gear planetary set, the 1350 has a 4 gear so the 1354 is a little stronger in that aspect. It also has a fixed front yoke where most 1350s have a slip yoke front output.
The 6 gear planetary didn't start 'til 93ish...
 
If you use your transfer case and axles then no problems with driveshafts however the 4.0 will kill the stock front axle on short notice, too much power. The front axle from the Ex. will bolt right in however you will need to replace the front driveshaft due to the fact that the dana 35 is larger and requires a shorter shaft. The rear axle will hold the 4.0 however the Ex's 8.8 (yours is a 7.5) is stronger. To install it you have to relocate the spring seats to the top of the axle because the Ex is a spring under axle and the Bronco II is a spring over axle setup. Also the spring seats are closer together on the Bronco. Another thing that has to addressed is that the u-joint flange on the Ex.'s axle is different than yours but it is possible to remedy this, check the tech section for this fix as I am unsure as of the specifics. All the Ex's springs will bolt right in, best part of this is that the rear Ex springs will fix the sagging rear that you most likely have and possibly give you about 1.5 inches of lift to boot. I myself just completed a 4.0 swap on my 88 and I say "just do it man" you won't regret it trust me it is worth the work involved. I still have to swap the axles and springs in mine though.
 
I have the the 4.0 in my 86 and 4.11s work good for everything but big rocks.I can drive to neighbor towns at 60 MPH at 2100 RPM no big deal.

Mine came with 4.11s still using the original rear L/S works real good.In the front I used a hybrid Dana 35.Bought a differential off the sight had a 35 from a 90 Ranger.The hybrid comes available with 4.11s I already had a Lock Right for a Dana 28 which fit.Originally I turned my nose up at this setup but I got to run the big u-joints and the little ones on the 28 had been regularly going out once I put on 33's.I'm bringing this up because it saved me $700 dollars over a locked 35 and works great.

I changed to a M50D at the same time as the motor and I never had a problem with the 1350 but the M50D gave me clearance problems with the manual linkage a little work been good.

For a fuel pump I would run a stock in tank that does'nt need a booster pump that way if you break down you can buy one anywhere.Don't forget if you run newer dash [the way I like to go] you need to run the newer sending unit as well.
 
4.0 in an 84 broncoII

I did a swap with a freind on his 84 BII and we use the fuel system from a 88 2.9 with the frame pump and tank with the boost pump wasnt ideal but it was easy to find because the broncoII and rangers had them. I did mine but its was a little easier because it a 1990 BII. But anybody who says that the 90 is plug and play with the explorer harness is wrong.
 
iv made this swap and kept my stock drive train in my 88' BII. you have to use the 4.0 clutch obviously and yea, i finished it a month before i left for the military then when i was home on leave for a month the drive train is holding up but i dont know for how long. i used a 4.0 from a 98' which had a little bit wider body, so i had to get ex motor mounts and drill them to fit. the wiring wasnt near as difficult as i has thought. well worth the time, plenty of power for a small truck.
 
Something else that I don't think has been mentioned yet. If you use the Explorer axle, it will have to get flipped. The Ranger/B2 has a spring-over rear end. The Explorer has a spring-under rear.
 

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