4.0 SOHC head gaskets/timing chains

[JJMaine]

Found a crack in my fan. Is this okay to run for a week or two until I can replace it or should I wait for a new fan?

 

[SenorNoob]

IF that's like mine, there should be a seal there.

As for the fan. 2 thoughts. I've seen way worse. It probably easier to change it now.

 

[JJMaine]

Oh that white part? Mine has that (though it is a bit worse for wear). I looked up the part number in the manual and it shows an o ring. It would be easier to change the fan now if I had it for sure. Probably can't get one til after Christmas so I may just run it for a spell to get by.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Try positioning the pipes on simultaneously. Or try driver first.

 

[JJMaine]

I did bolt the passenger side up fully and then struggled to get the driver side in place. That would make the most sense being that they are connected.

 

[JJMaine]

We're getting there! Cooling system holding steady at 16psi (fingers crossed) for 5 minutes so far. All that's left after that is throttle body, coil and wires, fix that exhaust, battery and fluids (power steering and coolant).

I already filled with fresh oil and filter before I installed the engine. I have everything I need for an oil change. How long would you guys run this oil/filter before changing it? I didn't exactly fix my engine in a dust free environment

 

[SenorNoob]

Unless you have problems I'd go with a regular 3500 miles. Just me.

 

[JJMaine]

Ok no quick flush? I didn't drop anything major into the engine obviously just any dust maybe tiny head gasket flakes.

Did I read something about raising the front of the truck to bleed the cooling system? I guess I'll probably have to anyway to bleed the power steering?

 

[SenorNoob]

Unless you're expecting big chunks, that's what the filter is for.

Raised might help. IDK that it's necessary. I just find it faster to park with the nose up. Done plenty of fills on level.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks!

 

[JJMaine]

Ready to start it I do believe. Had to take a lunch break and get some clean clothes on for the occasion. Fuel pump relay is out. So, crank it for a few seconds at a time, 3 or 4 times and that is sufficient to build oil pressure?

 

[sgtsandman]

Ready to start it I do believe. Had to take a lunch break and get some clean clothes on for the occasion. Fuel pump relay is out. So, crank it for a few seconds at a time, 3 or 4 times and that is sufficient to build oil pressure?View attachment 137490

That should be sufficient. I only say should be since you are in Maine, which tends to be pretty cold this time of year. Oil doesn't flow as well in the cold.

 

[JJMaine]

Should I crank it longer? It won't hurt anything will it as long as I give the starter time so it doesn't heat up?

 

[sgtsandman]

Should I crank it longer? It won't hurt anything will it as long as I give the starter time so it doesn't heat up?

You are basically looking to prime the system. So, don't over think it. If you oiled things while you assembled them, even if the priming isn't effective, you should have enough protection from the assembly oil to minimize any potential damage to the bearings.

Regardless, there is always going to be some break in wear on a rebuild and you are going to want to change the oil and filter pretty quickly after first start. About 200 - 500 miles. Again at 1,000 miles. Again at 3,000 miles. Then go to standard oil changes. You don't want to cheap out on oil filters for this either. Get the oil filter with the smallest micron filtering you can if you don't normally use such filters. K&N, Purolator Pure One or Boss, Mobile 1, and a few others generally are going to be the finest you can get. Motorcraft should be good as well. After the break in, you can run whatever filter you like.

 

[JJMaine]

Yeah, I primed it for a few times and then she fired right up! Purrs like a kitten!!!

Smokey from all of the wd-40 on the headers and I have to tighten up that egr pipe but I think she's good to go!