351w w/zf?

[don4331]

Also...why are they saying the T5 wont work? Pretty sure thats been done quite a few times with V8 swaps

There are 2 reasons they say the T5 won't work:

1. You have to cobble together an external hydraulic slave cylinder setup. There are a few examples on forum here on how people did it.​

2. The Mustang shifter winds up being against the seats on bench or 60/40 seats or inside OEM console. If you want the stock shifter position - the answer is get an S-10 T-5 tail shaft and housing which puts it more/less in stock location. Otherwise, get bucket seats and get creative with console.​

 

[fastpakr]

T 5 is weaker then a r2. The gearing and shifter on the r2 are not ideal relative to the t5 for performance and hot rodding. ... converting to hydro slave can be pia....but it is the staple.

There are ok Toyota transmissions that are adaptable from 2wd trucks. The good car transmissions are high dollar. T56 and 45...

Rather use a cdoo9 then a t5 any day

What is a cdoo9?

Looks like it's the 6 speed out of newer frontiers and has a solid reputation as a modern alternative to things like the T5. Available new for less than $2k from a quick search and adapter brackets to a SBF for maybe $1500.

No idea where that leaves you on transfer case though...

 

[2drxploder]

T5, 99 reg cab, ext slave. Surviving behind mild build 347

 

[19Walt93]

I think if you can manage to get a V8 into a Ranger, you can probably handle fabricating a cable clutch set up or an external slave cylinder if you like hydraulic clutches better than I do. I'll bet you can bend up a shifting lever to clear the seat, too.
Someone suggested a top loader, while they were good durable transmission(for the day) they have some negatives. Parts to rebuild them are getting expensive and harder to find. A close ratio 4 speed had a low gear around 2.20:1 and a 1:1 high gear, my T5 has a 3.35 low and a .67 overdrive, to get a good launch, the toploader would need deep gear like 4.10 or 4.56 and then your engine would scream at 60 mph. If you found a wide ratio 4 speed, low might be 2.88 or so, 3.35 is still better and the wide ration still has a 1:1 high gear.

 

[SpunkyPrep]

Alright, update to the situation.
We ended up going with a M5OD-R2.

Mainly due to necessity. the ZF would never have fit. Probably was a better option, but i had to go with the Mazda tranny due to availability constraints.
Driveshaft work required no modification. Transmission crossmember was relocated 3" to the rear. Shifter location is almost spot on for where it should be. Probably going to end up torching it and bending a dogleg in so that it doesn't contact the dash at all.
We used a M5R1 shifter stub and shifter, works fine.
Problem is that we're eating starters. I'm not positive on what the cause is. The tech seems to think that the starters were faulty from the get go, but i have my reservations on that. The damage to the pinion on the starter just looks like it is either BARELY engaging the flywheel, or it is getting hung on the flywheel and that's destroying the starter. I'm guessing that's a failure mode caused by improper shimming? I don't know yet. I'm not very familiar with the issue yet. I've got to get the truck back to the house in order to diagnose personally, but right now i've got to trust the opinion of the tech at the transmission shop.
He's a very knowledgeable dude, and i don't want to be presumptuous about the issue.

I'll post pictures of the problem next time i make it back to the shop.
Very frustrating.

 

[franklin2]

Alright, update to the situation.
We ended up going with a M5OD-R2.

Mainly due to necessity. the ZF would never have fit. Probably was a better option, but i had to go with the Mazda tranny due to availability constraints.
Driveshaft work required no modification. Transmission crossmember was relocated 3" to the rear. Shifter location is almost spot on for where it should be. Probably going to end up torching it and bending a dogleg in so that it doesn't contact the dash at all.
We used a M5R1 shifter stub and shifter, works fine.
Problem is that we're eating starters. I'm not positive on what the cause is. The tech seems to think that the starters were faulty from the get go, but i have my reservations on that. The damage to the pinion on the starter just looks like it is either BARELY engaging the flywheel, or it is getting hung on the flywheel and that's destroying the starter. I'm guessing that's a failure mode caused by improper shimming? I don't know yet. I'm not very familiar with the issue yet. I've got to get the truck back to the house in order to diagnose personally, but right now i've got to trust the opinion of the tech at the transmission shop.
He's a very knowledgeable dude, and i don't want to be presumptuous about the issue.

I'll post pictures of the problem next time i make it back to the shop.
Very frustrating.

Just like the little v6's that came in these trucks, the larger Ford vehicles also had that thin plate between the engine and the transmission. Do you have that plate and is the hole for the starter in good shape? One of the main jobs of this plate is to locate and hold the starter in the proper position.

 

[SpunkyPrep]

Here are a couple in North Carolina. Apparently the speedo gears are not changeable on it, so you have to pick the rearend ratio you have. I figured you might have a original 3.73 rearend, all they had close to that was a 3.55. If you have a way to calibrate your speedometer, you might find others you could use. I am getting this from www.car-part.com

1989 Transmission Assembly Ford Truck F250	4.9,4X2,5SP,MAZDA-0MI	​	X​	NN4810	$500​	B and H Used Auto Parts USA-NC(Marion) Request_Quote 800-832-4014 Request_Insurance_Quote
1988 Transmission Assembly Ford Truck F150	GRY TK,MT, 5 spd, Mazda (Toyo Kogyo manufactured), 4X2, 3.55 ratio,175K	175,000​	A​	061821	$400​	21 Motors USA-NC(Hamptonville) Request_Quote 336-468-8257 Request_Insurance_Quote

Honestly, i think one of those is what the trans shop ended up getting?

Just like the little v6's that came in these trucks, the larger Ford vehicles also had that thin plate between the engine and the transmission. Do you have that plate and is the hole for the starter in good shape? One of the main jobs of this plate is to locate and hold the starter in the proper position.

Yes, I did look for the separator plate when I was there. Present and accounted for. Good shape-ish. Could definitely stand being replaced, but the majority of it was in good condition from what I saw. The guy had also fabricated an additional plate to go between the starter and the bellhousing. Thickness appeared similar, but I didn't have calipers with me to check.
My gut instinct says the starter doesn't have proper standoff, and when the solenoid retracts the pinion, it isn't moving far enough back. The freeway on the shaft is letting the gear stay interfaced to the flywheel, but that's my uneducated suspicion.

They'll be getting another (third) starter mounted Monday, and hopefully getting the 3" extention on the exhaust knocked out too. Regardless of whether or not it is resolved, I'll be taking it home then and figuring it out. Pictures will be posted in the coming weeks, I need yalls help.

 

[2Krngr]

With either the early pre-96 or late model 99+ m5odr2 transmissions mated to a 302 you need to use all 1995 F150 parts to install it.

Block Seperator Plate
164 tooth truck Flywheel (not a 157tooth 5.0 mustang flywheel)
Clutch Kit
MANUAL Starter

Your issue lies in using an automatic starter or wrong block plate that locates the starter.

The auto/manual starters have different nose depth and the 2 block seperator plates have different starter mounting positions

 

[SpunkyPrep]

With either the early pre-96 or late model 99+ m5odr2 transmissions mated to a 302 you need to use all 1995 F150 parts to install it.

Block Seperator Plate
164 tooth truck Flywheel (not a 157tooth 5.0 mustang flywheel)
Clutch Kit
MANUAL Starter

Your issue lies in using an automatic starter or wrong block plate that locates the starter.

The auto/manual starters have different nose depth and the 2 block seperator plates have different starter mounting positions

Honestly, that's exactly what ended up being the issue.

They were trying to use stock Ranger starters, twice. A mustang starter once. Finally got a F150 starter, he cranks up perfect every time now.

However...

Now I have a fuel/ignition issue.

Cylinders 2, 3, 5, and 8 don't seem to be firing.
Just discovered this problem yesterday, been screwing with it for a while.
Thought it was a fuel delivery issue, so I dropped the tank, removed foam baffling, cleared fuel lines, replaced pre-pump filter. Opened the electric pump, vanes and rotor look fine, not much debris on the internal screen.
Put it all back, started her up. Getting 5.5-6.2 psi consistently.
I'm now looking into carb or ignition issues.
Attached photos of the set up...
I feel dumb with carb situations, but I'm sure we'll muddle along and eventually get it in time for something else to fail.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

There is more than one firing order for small block Ford's. Make sure you're using the right one.

 

[franklin2]

The intake manifold is usually a dual plane, meaning it splits the engine in two, 4 cylinders each. See if one side goes to those particular cylinders. I have had a piece of dirt get in one of the main jets and clog it, blocking fuel delivery to one side of the carb.

 

[SpunkyPrep]

The intake manifold is usually a dual plane, meaning it splits the engine in two, 4 cylinders each. See if one side goes to those particular cylinders. I have had a piece of dirt get in one of the main jets and clog it, blocking fuel delivery to one side of the carb.

Yeah, spent the last two days taking the carb apart, cleaning it as best I could in a impromptu way. I have a video of one side working, the other being dry but I can't upload it.

Something major has clogged the majority of the passages, the accelerator pump does nothing, the secondaries aren't doing crap, and I'm only getting extremely inconsistent and sporadic spurting out of one of the primaries.

I'll have to dedicate this coming weekend to thoroughly and methodically taking it apart and blasting cleaner/air through it repeatedly.

The chunks I was getting out on the initial clean was... depressing.

 

[Josh B]

I have a trashbarrell full of old carbs and old fuel filters. I think they're getting a good bit of oxidation tho

I had a 351w in a 64 Galaxy around 77. It had a 4 speed w/ a hurst shifter

Your video might be like mine. I got a Fuji on clearance at wmart and it does video but it's an older type that websites no longer use :/ It will work under water tho