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302 swap help


djkommando

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Active
U.S. Military - Veteran
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
116
City
Annville, PA
Vehicle Year
86 ranger
Transmission
Manual
i have an 86 ranger 2wd that im going to put a 302 out of an 87 mustang in it. my biggest problem that i found after reading is that the mustang uses a cable clutch for the t5. whats the best way to make the t5 work or is there a better trans option out there. oh and by the way, im plannin to build the motor to somewhere between 300 and 350hp. also any other useful tips to make the swap go easier would appreciated
thanks,
jeremy
 
The hydraulic clutch is easy.
Search TRS, RPS, and v-8ranger.com, and you'll find lots of very similar options.
 
i found people using an external slave from an 83/84 ranger and making a plate to mount it, but is it possible to use the internal slave i have now? or one from a different vehicle?
 
There are aftermarket internal slaves available.
They are quite expensive (in the $3-400 range) and many who use them question the reliabilty.
 
There are aftermarket internal slaves available.
They are quite expensive (in the $3-400 range) and many who use them question the reliabilty.

The McCleod T/O bearing used to have reliability issues, all that's been resolved. But with a T-5, there's no need to use one when there are cheaper external slave kits available.
 
Upgrade your axle to explorer 8.8...you'll need it
SVT
 
i know i have to get the axle, but is there anything special i have to do for a driveshaft?
 
you might need to shorten it depending on where you set the engine. and the input yoke will need to be changed. all stuff a good d-shaft shop can handle.
 
Get the motor/tranny set up and the axle set up and measure the length you need. Then take the specs to a drivetrain shop and they should be able to build you a driveshaft with whatever joints you want.

I ditched the 2-piece for a single, 3 1/2" driveshaft with spicer joints. Cost me only $195 for everything.

As for the slave? My slave cylinder is only $23 and the bracket can be as simple as a piece of angle iron on the bellhousing(depending where the fulcrum point is on the shift fork)
 
Why do you guys bother with the T-5. It requires the shifter hole to be opened up, putting the shifter in a very awkward location. And you have to fab up some cable system, OR go the hydraulic route using parts from aftermarket vendors.

You can use the M5OD from a 97+ F-150 w/ 4.2L V-6. It bolts right up. It puts the shifter RIGHT where it is supposed to go. AND it uses 100% OEM parts.

Ryan
 
Why do you guys bother with the T-5. It requires the shifter hole to be opened up, putting the shifter in a very awkward location. And you have to fab up some cable system, OR go the hydraulic route using parts from aftermarket vendors.

You can use the M5OD from a 97+ F-150 w/ 4.2L V-6. It bolts right up. It puts the shifter RIGHT where it is supposed to go. AND it uses 100% OEM parts.

Ryan
And it's just a truck transmission, not a performance trans like the T-5. People have done the hydraulic route with all stock Ranger parts before. What is the first gear ratio, torque ratings? The M5OD is the only way to go if running a 4x4.
Dave
 
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i got another situation i just ran into. i decided im gonna run gt40p heads but what i need to know is do i have to use the explorer intake as well and do i need anything special for valve train or are the parts (minus the valves) the same as the e7te heads i have now. if theres any other problems someone knows about besides headers that i should be aware of please let me know.
 
You shouldn't have a problem, all the parts should be interchangeable...
SVT
 
Why do you guys bother with the T-5. It requires the shifter hole to be opened up, putting the shifter in a very awkward location.


Not in the right hands its not.:D This is the most comfortable shifter I have ever used, so natural.

P2130347.jpg


P3290406.jpg


P3290408.jpg


P3300410.jpg


P7190022.jpg
 
here's how i relocated my shifter
6646140031_large.jpg

its made out of 1/2" aluminum plate then inserted a steel treaded insert for the knob and polished it out..looks like a Hurst and the 2" dogleg puts the stick just right..it took some time to come up with just the right curve and height..anybody that is interested i could make a pattern and email it to ya.
 

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